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  1. The story of how it all began, including pictures of ugly prototypes and crude early versions... What it all amounted to is a simple, strong bolt in swap that utilizes factory control arms and r200 mustache bar and allows the use of 2015 mustang brakes, hubs, cv axle ends and differential. The pinion yoke is a 1350 u joint one off a 1993 f250, it can be found at Denny's drivetrain. The struts that work with this setup are modified 2004 srt4 neon struts with their tops changed to the datsun 3 bolt camber plates. Most people simply contact bc racing and have them supply the 280z coilovers and exchange the bottom sleaves with the 2004 srt4 neons ones. Other people just use the coilovers they have and weld on the coilover tabs I also developed, so struts that work are basically anything you want. The brakes are either 13 inch rear brakes off a 2015 mustang or 11.8 inch brakes off a 2014 mustang. Both are dirt cheap, and both have a built in parking brake. I'm constantly updating the design with every batch, but here is what one of the components for a tacked cradle looks like. Pictured here is version 6, and the cradle bolted to the differential is version 4 I believe. *** Here's a picture of what it all ended up being in the end.
  2. After looking everything over and doing some digging I came to the conclusion that using 65 mustang hubs on 240z spindles is not a cost effective solution for big brakes. I am now looking into a ball joint adapter that bolts to the control arm of the 204z and uses press in 2014 mustang ball joints. I intend to use this in conjunction with 2004 Subaru wrx coil over struts to allow the use of 5 lug 2014 mustang hubs and brakes. Which are 5x114.3 The intent is to have the outer wheel mount flange be pushed out roughly 35mm.... effectively converting our cars from a "zero offset" wheel to a "plus 35mm" wheel... aka just like the 300z and the 240sx, Toyota supra etc... It's a front steer, rear caliper spindle just like the stock 240z, once I know what the bump steer geometry will be I will have a clearer picture of things. Someone could use a widebody or flared setup if they chose to run a zero offset wheel, or use cheap and readily available 350z wheels and have stock track width. Let me know if anyone has any input on this. Good idea, bad, etc...
  3. I have found a few threads on this issue, but no real resolution. The front sits noticeably higher (over 1") after the installation... it appears the front didn't even drop a millimeter from stock. Springs: Eibach Lowering Kit Shocks: KYB Checks: 6305.001 springs are on the front. 6305.202 springs are on the rear. The label and part number are right-side up so you can read them. The springs are seated properly. The control arm bolts/nuts were tightened with the load of the car (not on jack stands). Does anyone have a clue as to why the front did not lower? Seems basic enough...
  4. hey guys I have a '83 280zx pretty much stock everything except for the engine stuff (turbo and intercooler). My car drives like a bowl off jello, and I wanted to buy new shocks and springs. and I'm cheap, so no super cool expensive coilover sets (beside the car doesn't run well, so I won't shell out money on a car that, after 4 years of screwing around in, still won't run well) and I don't want a car that too low for very daily driving. I found out that KYB shocks are everywhere, there is some Gabriels as well on some sites. so I guess, for basic, stock like performance, i'm covered for shocks.. but the only springs I could find is an eiback lowering kit (1 inch lower) for a lot of money ( https://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/classic20c01 ). if anyone aware of stock like (or mild drop) springs available anywhere? There are some AC delcos listed in a few place, but back order everywhere.. thanks! seb
  5. I am in the research phase of my 280z build and have been going back and forth between the Arizona Z Car Track Pack and Techno Toy Tunings Packages that match ACZs offerings. The overall plan is the build my suspension and brakes to be strong and able to do anything I throw at it, whether it’s auto cross, track days or daily driving. I will be going with a LY6/T56/R200 drivetrain. I know there are threads that talk about both techno toy and AZC but I haven’t seen any definitive pros or cons to either kit and I would love to know if anyone else has gone through this and where you landed.
  6. The springs: https://zcardepot.com/products/coil-spring-set-stock-and-lowered-240z-260z-280z?variant=21384265269361 I'm planning on installing new springs and struts and I've found this option. I don't race my car and my suspension is totally stock so far, I feel my springs and struts are fine I'm just looking to lower it. I want a 1.5 or 2" drop, I like that the springs I've linked seem linear and not progressive. They don't give much of a description of who makes these springs or where they come from though. Has anyone used them? Would you recommend them? I like the amount of drop some people get with the Tokico springs but we all know they're discontinued. I don't think I'll go the eibach route because I've been reading that they don't drop the ride height much. Also if anyone's running other brands like vogtland or STAGG etc. let me know what you think about them.
  7. I couldn't be any happier to announce that I have my 1978 Datsun 280z back in my possession after all these years. Way back when I was only eighteen years old, I had an amazing cousin that introduced me to Datsun's and specifically the S30 Series. At the time he owed a couple Z's. One with an LS swap and the other with a turbo kit. Once I experienced the awesomeness that these vehicles could put out, I was hooked! Just like that, I made my mind up that I had to have one. With my cousins help of course, we were able to pick up my 280z fairly quick. Happy to say that I got in a good couple years with the Z being my daily driver. During this time I began to go down a very dark path. Unfortunately the Z was not my priority during my "dark years". This lead to my car sitting at my dads for a good 6 to 7 years. Now that I am in a much better place in life, I was able to get the Z back in my possession. I decided that it would be best for the car to go straight to the shop and get some professional help. I have never claimed to be the best mechanic, so this seemed to be the best option. Unfortunately the shop had the car for close to a year. I have now paid a LARGE amount to get the car up and running like a top!! Now that I have the car back home I would like to start working on it myself. Again, I have always had help with the car so I feel very unworthy at the moment lol. This is where I would like your help. I will post all the pictures I have, in hopes that you all can point me in the right direction. Honestly I do not have many funds after paying for the shop bill, so I want to make it a point to do all the work myself that I can possibly handle. I have only had the car back for a few days now so I haven't been able to tag it due to the COVID mess going on. From the little bit I have been able to drive it, all seems to be running well! I do think that the next step I take will be upgrading the suspension and steering. Just from the couple short trips I have taken on the Z, its very obvious that the suspension is in need of some love. Happy that you all are here with your expert advice! Look forward to the responses to come!
  8. Hi everyone, I was wondering if anyone could help me with a problem concerning my left front coilover. I have new T3 coilovers on the car along with camber plates that I installed relatively recently. I have maybe driven ~200 miles since the install, however I have noticed when turning left at low speeds (such as backing out of a parking spot), the spring and perch will bind causing a really loud "pop" noise. Please see linked video. Apologies if the size is large, I couldn't figure out how to change it. As you can see by the sharpie mark I made, the perch does not turn smoothly. It seems to bind and then pop with the spring into place. The popping noise is fairly loud and makes me look like a terrible owner haha 😭. I then jacked the car up and noticed that the spring is rubbing and has shaved off part of the threaded section. This is probably what is causing it to get stuck: I guess the spring is somehow misaligned between the upper and lower perches, but it seemed odd as the spring was properly seated on the lower perch when the car was loaded. I dropped the strut assembly and checked for straight alignment (which it looked perfectly fine), bolted it back in, and put sharpie on the threads to see if it would still rub. It still rubs!!! Anyone have any suggestions on what to do next? The popping and now the visible rub is making me not want to drive the car
  9. I'm picking up my 280zx with a manual trans and 90,000 miles. It needs brake lins but thats it acording to the owner. I plan on making this a project car and one day a weekend car. I'm not looking the get a ton of power out of it but I do want to make it look nice. I'm a good craftsman and fabricator in my opinion so I plan on making a lot of stuff in house. I want to lower it a good bit, give it some offset wheels and fender flares, and paint it all on a budget plus spruce up the inside. I can make the flares no problem but I'm not sure how im going to do the suspention. $900 coilovers are awsome but not in the buget for me. I have a welder though. I'm looking for links to diy suspenson maybe and what I should look for in rims. Also is $800 a decent deal? or not so much. best deal in my area but I have heard of people getting better deals Let me know if you have other Ideas for my project to. Thanks, Isaac
  10. As I've mentioned briefly here before, I'm nearing completion of my electric conversion on a 1977 280Z. The conversion has resulted in a significant change to the car's weight balance, and I need advice on suspension adjustments to go along with this. In lieu of the ~500 lbs L28, there is now a 120 lbs electric motor: And where the spare tire well/gas tank once was, there is ~300 lbs of batteries and battery housing: As a result, the ride height is quite high up front: The rear looks fine to me though: This car will be a daily driver around town and on freeways. I have no plans to track/autocross/etc (and would need to do a major overhaul of my battery pack to set it up for that). So I'm looking for a way to lower the front while keeping the ride comfortable for daily driving. It's been suggested that I just cut the springs up front, but others have warned that's a horrible idea. I'd rather not spend big money on a fancy setup with a ton of adjustment meant for racing that I'll never use, so is there something in between that might work better for me?
  11. hello everyone I'm new to this forum and was wondering what kind of setup everyone is using for ungraded suspension parts on their 280ZXs? i haven't had much luck finding anything in terms of struts/ coilovers that work, and am curious as to what everyone has done
  12. Before I order new, just wanted to see if anyone had a set they're not using. Thanks in advance!
  13. Hello, im new here and was looking for racing/track suspension and chassis almost everywhere and didnt find it. So i have got a few questions. 1. Does 280z suspension and chassis fit into 280zx? 2. From what company can i buy suspension and chassis ? (In Europe if possible if not its ok) 3.Does 300zx brakes fit in 280zx? Datsun 280zx 2+2 1979 2.8l 5speed manual. Hope You guys will help me!
  14. Wheel broke off when I was driving cause my studs weren’t torqued probably haven’t driven my z in months and I’m itching to drive my z again need front wheel hub for the cheap I think 280z ones fit as well. Preferably people in Cali willing to pick up if you live close! Someone inbetween la or sd that has one!!
  15. Hey guys, I am very unhappy with the way the eibach progressive springs and kyb shocks ride. I feel the car is bobbing around and having a hard time loading the suspension into slightly more aggressive corners. I am in the process of ordering some BC Coilovers for my 280 (1JZ, poly bushings , 245/40R17, 17x9 and ZG flares(presently its on blocks and being assembled). The car will be primarily a daily driver in the spring, summer, fall with the odd autocross day. I don't want to slam it, making it difficult to navigate city streets or sore after driving for an hour lol. I would like it to look decent with good handling. After reading through some of the comments It seems like the standard coil overs do not drop the car very much (0-2"). The s30 especially the 280z is SUPER high and needs to be brought down a bit.... After speaking with BC they told me I can define the exact drop I would like so I am thinking of getting a custom kit with a 1.5-4.5" drop. (4k(225 lb/inch) in the front and 5k (280 lb/inch) for the rear. (Stock is 115.4 Front, 127.7 Rear)) They also said they will be changing the shock body size and stroke based on my request. For a standard lowering kit they run 230mm body with 110mm of travel in front and 290mm body with 140mm travel in rear. They will probably take 20mm off each body and stroke length if I get a lower kit. Pretty neat eh... Any feedback or recommendations would be appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  16. Hey all, Firstly, I recognize that this is ground that has been tread and re-tread within the forums, but I am not finding an answer to my specific questions in older posts and am seeking clarity from the wise. With that said: Tokico no longer makes the Illuminas (or maybe doesn't make anything anymore) and the last stock of BZ3099s and BZ3015s (originally sized for the 240Z front and AW11 MR2 rear) have evaporated from stock shelves the world over. Illuminas (especially these shorter models) seemed to be the consensus choice for a slightly lowered, slightly stiffened street S30. I have seen references in other threads that suggest that the Koni 6810s are stiffer and more appropriate for high spring rates and track/road race uses. What shocks, currently on the market, are the best match to the performance of the Tokico Illuminas? Ideally something adjustable within the stiffness range of a daily driver.
  17. I've got a 1975 280z with a stock suspension. This is the only Z I've ever driven so I can't really compare it to anything but I feel like the ride is pretty rough. I can feel every tiny imperfection in the road and if I hit any kind of hole or bump at a good speed it feels pretty bad. It gets very floaty on the freeway. I've got it on 215/55r16 tires. I don't race it or anything so it's just for normal street driving. I looked around at a bunch of other forums and from what I read it looks like Eibach Pro Spring Kits rated at 150lb in the front and 175lb in the rear is what people are suggesting, with Tokico HP struts. I was wondering if anyone is running this setup and could maybe say anything about it like if it isn't too rough for just everyday driving. Or if maybe something new has come out that I didn't find and anyone had suggestions.
  18. Is there an advantage to weld in camber plates? Trying to figure out what route to take. The drill and bolt method seems legit and i could always make a small plate to go on the underside to help stiffen the top the tower. Im guessing the weld in plates are stout.
  19. Info: 1975 280Z R200 diff non-LSD Problem: First of all, I made a mistake disassembling my suspension without first taking pictures...new to the weekend mechanic world...lots of forum searches, using my haynes manual, youtube, etc.. I have looked in my Haynes manual and searched google images of suspension breakdowns, and still can't seem to identify this part. If I remember correctly, I removed it from the differential mount area. I did lots of cleanup on it and was covered in oil/grime. Please help! I attached pictures of the part.
  20. Hey all, I took my 240Z to the track last weekend, and because it was a bit wallowy at high speeds and had a lot of body roll, I'm now looking into changing up my spring rates. Current setup: 200 lb/in front springs 22mm front sway bar 250 lb/in rear springs no rear sway bar pretty thin RCAs on the front (18.5mm) lowered somewhat but not a ton 205/55R16 bridgestone RE-11s Koni yellow single-adjustable (rebound only) race shocks -2.0º camber front and rear 2.5º caster (can't run more until I modify bodywork or relocate strut mounts rearward) 0 toe front 1/16" total toe in rear Next steps I was initially thinking of: put thicker (30mm) RCAs back on increase spring rate to 300 front, 350 rear (or even 350F, 400R) add a rear strut brace (front has a triangulated strut brace already) However, I was reading about tender + main spring setups and they seem really interesting (To be clear, I'm using the same terms Eibach is here: helper springs: soft, just keep main springs seated at full droop. tender springs: have sufficient spring rate to impact driving under other conditions; I've noticed that some people use these terms the other way around). It sounds like it could provide a good compromise between a car that corners fairly flat and doesn't move around to much on load transitions, but still has higher ability to absorb bumps well. One setup I was thinking of was: 350# main springs in the front, with #300 tenders, yielding an ~160# effective rate until the tenders reach coil bind. And something similar in the back. But, I also see lots of downsides: it seems like with the simple shocks I'm using, you'll only be valved decently for either the soft or the firm part of the range. it seems like this setup would actually be worse than my current setup for high speed stability by reducing the effective rate in those conditions. the bump absorbing ability would only be improved when the suspension isn't already compressed, so it does nothing to help when cornering near the limit and hitting some uneven pavement, i.e. conditions where you actually want this. the sudden transition from 160# to 350# spring rate after an inch or so of compression sounds like a great way to unsettle the chassis. Anyone here have any experience experimenting with a setup like this? It sounded good on the face of it, but I'm not convinced it can work. But if it can't, then why does these setups exist? Is it just another compromise between comfort and handling, or are there actual rear-world handling benefits from a setup like this? My goals for the car are: 1: fun to drive on back roads, and okay to drive on regular streets and highways. and that performs well enough on the track that it's fun to push it to its traction limit (which it wasn't really with the high amount of roll and floatyness I got last weekend) doesn't have be super comfortable on our pothole ridden California highways, but I do want to be able to drive it fast-ish on less than perfect surfaces, so it should be compliant enough for tires to remain in contact with the road most of the time. Some pics to show the amount of roll:
  21. Fellow Enthuziazts... I'm in the process of resto-modding my 73 240z. I purchased the AZC coil overs, they are very nice. The car is in the process of being painted, and I'm redoing the suspension myself. I've had just about every part of the car acid stripped, and i'm ready to assemble the suspension. Want to weld, paint, assemble, and send to shop for installation on the body. Unfortunately, i really can't mock up the rear coil-over setup with body, because it's all completely apart. This is just a street car, maybe the occasional autocross. I'll probably get some 235/40 17s or something close to the original tire OD. I probably won't lower the car more than inch. Can anyone share what height or dimension was used to locate the new coil-over tube?? I cut the original strut tube at 3.5" from the casting per AZC's directions. thanks Joe in SE WI.
  22. hey guys, I am in the process of pulling apart all my lower control arms, steering linkage, rear diff and moustache bar.. I am running a 1JZ with 340whp, an eibach upgrade springs with kyb shocks, I need to replace all my bushings but am kind of stuck as to which way to go.... Please bear in mind I want this as a daily driver with some track days. I don't want my car to rattle, sqeak and feel its vibrating all the time yet I don't want it to be super sloppy. Has anyone done a hybrid bushing replacement? Like some rubber and some poly? I would really appreciate some feedback.
  23. Like many people with the tokico lowering springs have the issue of the front binding. The first photo is the red tokico 5020F that has less than one inch of bump travel. It rode worse than solid Pogo stick. So I looked far and wide for a fix. The rear end of the car is fine, tons of travel. I got the dimensions and the tokico springs and the spring rates. I found out a few springs that fit and found that MOOG 80099 fit. But they need to be cut to match the 140lbs/in rate of the tokicos. I cut the first dead coil and 2 active coils. And if my math is right the rate is close. I will update it when it settles after a nice long drive. (11,250,000*Wire diameter^4)/(8*numberofcoils*meancoildiameter^3)=spring rate first photo: old wornout tokico 5020F second photo: side by side moog spring and tockico third photo: cut moog spring fourth photo: on the car
  24. Hello, This is my second post, my first was extremely vague and lazy on my part. I have always had a deep interest in cars and all things that move really. My experience with mechanics is limited to 2 semesters of high school auto class and minor experience with outboard boat engines. I also have rebuilt a 4 cylinder boat engine with the help of a friend who is a mechanic. I have basic tools,(screwdrivers, ratchet set, wire strippers etc.) and a home garage to work in with limited space and no large equipment such as welders or a lift, just the basic tools. I have only driven a manual car a handful of times but have some experience driving other manual vehicles. I really am set on getting a 240z. From my research I have found that it is a relatively easy car to work on, has excellent technology for its age and the L-series motors are extremely reliable and great sounding. The unique look and nostalgia of the car is really what sold me on making a z my first project. My project z would be garage kept and I would most likely sell my current car to buy a cheaper daily driver and use the leftover $ for the z. I have a decent budget for a college kid and plan on this project to take years, so my budget will eventually increase, but for now I am looking at approximately 25k. This must also cover the cost of buying the car. What Im looking to do is get a 240z (70'-74') in running condition with minimal rust. What I've heard is that rust can be the most unpleasant and expensive problem to deal with, and considering i have no means to do body work myself, i would like to avoid having to pay for major body repairs. I would like to begin with projects that mainly increase the reliability and drivability of the car. I would also like to use this car as a learning experience for whatever mods I can do myself. Wiring, electrical, filters, bushings, tires, coil etc. would all be things i would like to upgrade or improve and repair. Maybe a few years down the road if the frame and body of the car are sufficiently stiffened and the motor dies i will look to do an engine swap. But for now just handling and reliability mods,followed by suspension and, eventually I would like to do upgraded headers and exhaust for the l24 just to let it breath a little better, but not looking for a rocket ship. What I really want out of this project is a unique classic, not something that i will see 10 others just like it on a Sunday drive. A car that can be mostly for learning to build, fix and upgrade as well as help me become a better driver. Suggestions as to how much I should look to spend would really help. How much can I expect to pay for a running 240z with minimal rust. I would like to have some of the 25k leftover to do some of my own work with, because having a hand in the building of this car is very important to me. Also suggestions for what projects to start on or if i Should have the car looked over by a professional before starting any projects. I apologize for the long post and hope this better meets forum standards. Im am young an very passionate about getting into the z game. Thanks.
  25. My search for a good car ended up being pretty quick. I wanted a car that had a flawless interior, very little rust, but really did not worry too much about the condition of the engine or transmission because those are being upgraded soon. I lucked out and found a decent candidate, it was recently restored by an old navy guy but he wanted to let it go so he could fund a new corvette. It had very little rust, from what i could tell, the interior was in acceptable shape and the best part, It Ran! The only noticeable things wrong with it were some major dents in the frame rails from clueless mechanics jacking the car up over the last 30 years and a dull grinding noise when letting the clutch out which i am assuming is just the pilot bearing. I drove up to meet him the weekend after seeing the posting and ended up buying the car, this was late June of 2016, I was able to drive it the 250 miles home that day... kind of. My phone does not hold its battery very well and i was depending on the GPS to get me home, before i even made it to my state line, my phone died. This ordinarily would not have been a problem, but neither of the plugs in the car would work. I ended up stopping at a gas station to get a paper map and traveled like a caveman the rest of the way home. Then, the second i hit my county line, the clutch pedal just dropped to the floor and would not un-engage. I wrestled it into neutral and rolled into the nearest gas station. When i popped the hood i noticed the clutch reservoir was bone dry. Luckily they had some dot-3 for me to fill it back up and it lasted until i made it home. I would find the source of the issue later.
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