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Showing results for tags 'autocross'.
Found 9 results
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I am selling my 1973 Datsun 240Z. Bought as roller without engine/trans in 2011/2012. Previous owner/s have changed the roof and various parts, so some of the stuff i pulled out was off a 260z/ 280z and there might still be some mixed parts on it. That and all the modifications pretty much eliminate this as a show car. Do not buy this thinking it can be restored to show car quality. It would take far more than would make economic sense. This is purely made to run quick/fast, not to look pretty. It's raw and needs muscle to be driven. It has manual brakes without booster and manual steering without power assistance. You need to be strong like bull. But it is rewarding! If you dare you can get 0-60 in just over 4 seconds, while carrying a passenger. I've never felt the need to put effort into it, but I am certain it'll crack the 4 second mark if you just lower the tire pressure... This is a great handling, light weight car with balls! Once you get used to its noise and raw roughness or like me, fall in love with it, this car is AWESOME! Took it to tracks and autocross events and thoroughly enjoyed the @#$% out of it every time i drove it, but I am almost done building me next racecar and I need the funds to focus and finish it up... Now to the great things about this car. I'm just going to list as much as I can and I'll save some details for when you come to see it: SOLID 1997 Pontiac Trans Am LT1 V8 with 310 hp at around 5250 rpm and a torque curve that starts well above 320 ft. lbs. from the word go all the way into the rev limiter. Max torque 340 ft. lbs. Stand-alone engine harness and Howell Engineering computer, tune-able, obviously T56 manual 6-speed transmission out of the same 1997 Pontiac Trans Am S1 Sequential Shifter that translates forward/ backward motion into the H-pattern - yeah, it's awesome! R200 rear diff with a fantastic Quaife ATB torque biased helical limited slip differential upgrade and 3.545 final drive ratio Nissan Armada CV jointed half shafts LED sealed beam replacement headlights with aero covers Both, front and back bumpers lightened (not good for crash resistance, so be aware) Fiberglass bumper covers, front and back, front with lower air dam Fiberglass fenders Fiberglass hood with vents and secured by lockable aerocatch latches Fiberglass cowl Fiberglass flares Wilwood brakes (almost 13" all around) with 6 piston front calipers and 4 piston rears - high temp fluid, track disks, track pads, biasing valve installed Complete Arizona Z car suspension kit with billet control arms etc pp, which keeps the rear control arms straight while the vehicle is lowered! 5-lug Rota wheels 17x9 front and 17x9.5 rear with Nitto NT01s in 255/40/17 fronts and 275/40/17 rears Autopower bolt in 10 point roll cage NRG hub and deep dish steering wheel with quick disconnect and lockable cover Custom light weight polycarbonate dash board Dakota Digital gauge cluster with 0-60 timer and 1/4 mile timer and couple neat functions Ignition activated dash cam with GPS Corbeau racing seats on sliders, forth and back adjustable! Schroth ASM harness belts Fuel-Safe bladder fuel tank with functioning level sensor and external high flow filter and Mallory pump Fiberglass deck lid spoiler American Autowire chassis harness Clean California title Made in 1973, this car is PRE-smog and does not have to go to smog inspection! Current registration Asking price $12,500.00 Located in San Diego
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Hey guys, I'm planning to go autocross next month in my 280z for the first time. I've done autocross twice in the past, but will be the first in the Z. I had several questions I hope to get answered. Sorry for the newb questions. 1. What should I do to keep the engine cool between runs while I wait in line? Idle for couple minutes? Turn engine off right away? Turn engine off and keep radiator fans on (I have electric fans)? The Socal weather is going to be hot in June/July. 2. My exhaust fume smells pretty badly. Is this acceptable in autocross? I don't want to inconvenience other drivers especially when we're waiting in line. 3. Any tips specifically for the Z to run it reliably? Thanks for the help. It's been 5 years since I got the car to make it a "track" car and I really haven't done much, but I'm finally getting it out to drive. Car info: 1975 280z. Stock engine. 3 row radiator with electric fans. Lowered with upgraded brakes. Shane
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First time doing a write-up so bare with me... I autocross my series-1 240z last season and needed to upgrade my rear brake, but did not wanted to go to Willwood because I am running a smaller wheel, so I contacted Edan at Silvermine Motors to get his Stage 4 Rear Brake Kit. I currently have one inch Willwood master cylinder and Toyota S12+W front brakes. Shipping was fast and prompt, customer service was great. Complete install 4 - 6 hours, depending on skill level. The kit comes with all necessary hardware and instructions. Stub axles needs to be removed for the install. Mounting brackets needs to face towards the front of the car. Caliber mount needs to be installed next, see picture below. Install brake pads guides; grease as necessary. Next, place caliber on where the bleed nipple faces down. It's designed that way to use stock e-brake. Bleeding caliber will have to be done unbolted from the mount, then placed back on the mount, then adjust e-brake accordingly. Edan states the kit won't fit 15" wheels, but my Atara Racing 15x10.5 - 32 offset clear by a quarter of an inch. I'm sure I missed a lot of details, but the instructions include in the kit are very clear. I am excited to test out the kit on my SCCA car. For anybody that wants to follow how the kit does, feel free to follow the link to the car's Facebook page: https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-DragonballZ/701471269934147 Here's the link to the brake kit : http://www.silverminemotors.com/datsun/datsun-240z/brake-upgrades/stage-4-rear-big-brake-kit Any questions, feel free to ask. -
1977 280z project looking to turn this car into a auto cross/canyon/daily driver really hopeing to get some help from everyone on the forums and it would really be appreciated any words of wisdom or welcomed as a newer z owner as myself has much to learn. Will upload more pictures as time goes by in the build I went with a plan to start from the inside out and go from there so as of now the whole interior is stripped to bare metal and looking to just tidy it up on the inside with a coat of paint and a performance seat soon
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Hey all, please let me preface this ad with a little bit of history on myself, I am a former ASE certified auto tech. I also did restorations and modifications for several years before I ended that career. My current career is fabrication and metal repairs on commercial aircraft. My specialty when I did automotive restorations was rust repairs, I have a knack for working steel. I am telling you all this so that you will understand that the rust repair and metal fabrication on this car is not done by a teenage hack (nothing personal kids). With that all out of the way, here is the dealeo... 1979 Datsun/Nissan 280zx 2+2. All new bodywork. All rust removed and replaced with metal. Underside cleaned up and rust removed and replaced with metal then undercoated. Emblems and outside trim removed and holes welded shut. Subtle body modifications include hand fabricated front splitter, and small kick up on the rear lid. The marker lights were also flushed in and custom made lenses fitted with colored LED lights. Seats from a later model chevy sedan were mounted to the stock seat bottoms. Rubber mats on floors to keep messes from dirty feet easy to clean. All suspension was rebuilt with Energy Suspension polyurethane bushings. Larger front and rear Suspension Technologies anti-sway bars. Front Techno-toy-tuning camber adjusters, front 5 way adjustable Tokico struts, rear 8 way adjustable KYB struts. Lower ride height with adjustable coil springs. Goodridge stainless braided brake lines all around. Custom fabricated strut tower braces and Custom harness bar with new RCI 5 point racing harnesses. Rear end locked up for drift and autocross. I built this car with autocross in mind. 16" XXR wheels with very new Toyo T1R tires. The engine is from an 83 z car, (L-79 head and F-54 block) with cold air intake and an electric fan. The engine is still stock to the best of my knowledge. It runs very strong. Has fantastic oil pressure! New battery. 5 speed 79 zx transmission running Red Line synthetic fluid. Re-covered head liner, no cracks in the factory dash and new paint inside and out (except in the main area of the engine compartment) I have many pictures of the car during the rebuilding phases, ask if you want to see them. I am asking $7000 or best reasonable offer. I have much more than that invested in this car. It deserves a good home with someone who knows how to drive it! As some added incentive, If anyone from this list assists in the sale of my car, I will gladly pay you 100 bucs after the deal is done! If your feeling charitable I will gladly split that with this web site since it has been such a fantastic resourse. If the pictures attached are not that great please message me and I will gladly e mail you the orignal files so they are a little more clear. I can take more pictures if you like as well. Thanks for looking, Dennis~ -
Here is an autocross video of my run before my go pro died. Car is a 72 240z with a rb25det gt3076r, megan coilovers, msa sway bars, on dunlop 205f/225r. http://youtu.be/9X2P0r9AMtA
