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Found 16 results

  1. Hey guys, been a loooong time since I was last on here. I am getting back into my engine swap project for my 77 280z. I sold the engine out of the z this year and picked up pieces for the swap. I am shooting for the following setup 302 EFI, W/C T5, unsure about rear differential I have a W/C T5 already but it has no bellhousing, supposedly low miles I have an 86 mustang GT 302 but I just obtained a free, running and driving 2001 Mercury Mountaineer with a 302 that I am told is the best factory 302 I can get, so I will likely be using that for the donor I do not have a rear differential for the swap, that seems to be the only other BIG item that I am missing. I have the solidwork prints from the Laine swap website and will likely be using those to fabricate my mounts. I will be updating with pictures soon. Is there anything else I will need for the swap that I cannot pull from the Mountaineer? I was hoping I could use it's ECU and electrical system in the Z. I would like to be producing over 200hp/325ft/lbs at the wheels with this setup. I was told that the cam in a mountaineer 302 is actually a truck cam and I could gain a decent HP boost (at the cost of a little torque) by swapping the cam out of my mustang GT 302. Does anyone have any experience with this?
  2. Spent 6 hours today with a Dremel Tool carefully grinding away aluminum in the transmission housing right above the first clutch pack because the metal plate wouldn't fit. The old housing had a slot in it, the new one did not. I was wondering if anyone else has ran into this. New housing is from Cobra Transmissions.
  3. Hey guys been a member on here for a while but haven't been very active. Anyway for a little background, I live in Barbados in the Caribbean which is a pretty small island. Despite the obvious benefits of living on a tropical island like all year good weather and lovely beaches, our duties on vehicles here are crazy (over 200+%) and also there are serious restrictions on vehicle importation for instance nothing older than 4 years which automatically rules out any s30 Zs. However I have always wanted one of these cars so I was left with the only legal option of importing a shell or basic chassis and building a car from scratch. I spent some time scouring the net for just that and finally found a 280z in pretty good condition and the owner was willing to strip it to the point I wanted. He had done a basic restoration a few years back to the point of primer but it was too rough a job for my purpose so I decided a full strip down from the ground up was in order and at the same time I would modify to suit. One of the issues I faced was that there were no other driving Zs on the road and just a couple S30 shells lying around and since the body came missing most parts I would have to educate myself thoroughly on the workings of the car. Also because of the unreliable work ethic of many persons available I decided that for the fun and general experience of it I would undertake the restoration and modification almost exclusively along with a good friend. This naturally required somewhere to work and the tools to get the job done, so my first order, even before I had the car was to start getting the tools I didn't already have. It's been an on and off 3 year project so far and still not done. The car in it's original state when I first got it. Looked decent from far but far from great... Of course after stripping some rust issues were found but all in all was pretty good. After the rust areas were dealt with the next plan was to convert the car from LHD to RHD since that is the side of the road we drive on here. Finding donor parts prooved to be a bit of an issue so we eventually decided that the only real way was to fabricate everything from scratch. So we made up a couple templates and pulled out our spot weld remover bit and got to work. The next step was getting everything stripped down to metal and epoxy coated. Best way for this would be a rotisserie so that was our next project, building one. Then the fun could begin... After hearing alot of horror stories about 'professional' sandblasting services I decided to blast the car myself with a small blaster from eastwood and some glass. It was NOT fun. But the results were rewarding.
  4. Well time the time has come. Life is happening and decisions must be made. First off, I want to make this clear to everyone interested; I am not in a situation where I am being forced to sell the Z. I still very much enjoy working on her and taking her out for a drive. So why am I selling it? The direction I want to go in life is going to have me away from the world of cars for a bit, and I do intend to return back to the addiction that is Z cars, but until then she needs a good partner. Having been through a couple of Zs before, I wanted to take a different approach with this one. Not a restoration, but more of a reliable mild tune car for just fun cruising and possibly a daily driver. Plus, if I wanted to increase the power later I would have the ability to. I had heard about the V-8 swaps that were popular back in the day and so decided to go that route. Ford vs Chevy? Based on the information I found and hours of research I settled on a small block Chevy. With the Jags that Run guide, decided on what is seems to be a strong, reliable engine, the 5.7L LT1. This is a 1976 280z that has been modified based off the Jags that Run handbook, to now house a 1995 LT1 drivetrain. So what we’re talking about here is a 5.7 liter (a true 350 Z haha…) LT1 from a 1995 Corvette, a T56 Transmission and custom drive shaft to fit it all in her. The differential is a R200 differential which would be sufficient for me wants and needs. What this also meant was that incase anything required more work that I could do, or had time for, I would be able to take it to a Chevy dealership and they would be able to work on it from engine up to the differential. Now time for the actual build and changes made to the Z! Exterior Keeping in the front of the Z, headlights were upgraded to Dapper Lighting’s HID retrofit. Decided this time around to go with their new (at the time) larger projector lights with the 5000k lighting. Most of the driving I did was during the day anyways, but there’s probably 30 hours of run time on the bulbs. So basically new. Suspension, went with new shocks and new springs, dropped the car about an inch. Sits low enough that it looks nice but doesn’t affect suspension or other geometry on the car i.e. tires don’t bottom out. Gauges were replaced with speedhut gauges. The Speedo and Tach have been fit into the original housing sleeve to have a stock/modern look to it. Current gauges that are in there consist of a speedometer/tachometer on the steering column. Center stack consists of oil pressure, fuel gauge and temperature gauge. Cut out a hole for mounting a speaker in the storage compartments behind the seats. Just nice to have some tunes running in the background sometimes while driving. Car has enough power to run an amp and be able to push better/louder speakers, but at the time this was not much of a concern of mine. Moving on to the rear of the car, fuel door was removed/welded shut and blended in with the rest of the car to have a clean look. Gas tank and rear spare tire area was cut out and a 16 gallon fuel cell was installed. Tires I had on it during the build where some American Racing wheels. Didn’t look good on her at all, but did the job while moving and building. Those have been replaced with Konig Rewinds 16 x 7 in the silver/chrome color. The tires I decided to go with were the BF Goodrich G-Force Sport Comp 2. I bought these through Discount Tire since they had the best price for everything, had them install the matching tire stems and all 4 tires have their refund/replacement certificate warranty. I would need to see if this is transferrable to a new owner. I also purchased a locking lug kit for the tires. Since the mounting of the wheels I have driven a little under a thousand miles on them…so brand new really. Windshield developed a crack, so had it replaced with a new one. Was able to get one with the small blue tint strip up at the top, which the previous one had turned brown after 40 years. All doors and windows have new seals and strips. Windshield doesn’t leak in the corners. Wipers still work, speeds consisting of slow and less slow, not that they were ever used but still. Front and rear bumper were removed, with the rear area being blended away, and the front still has the indents from it. Front airdam was installed to complete the lines of the car. Bushing were all replaced on the car. Steering has no slack/dead spot, and car corners and drives on rails. Very nice feel overall. Breaks are stock setup, with discs in front and drums in back. I don’t drive it hard to the point I needed the extra stopping power, plus with the cost of doing a conversion, I was going to leave that for after the interior was done to my liking. I painted the car a blue hue, official name is Daytona Blue Pearl. Car was sanded and smoothed to create as flat as a surface as possible. Car was then primed and about 6 coats of paint and 4 coats of clear where laid down. Is it a 100 point car? Nope. Has its minor imperfections, but you would not notice them unless you were up close and specifically looking for them. Door jambs where painted as well as the engine compartment and underneath the hood. Only part that was not sprayed was underneath the inspection lids. Wheel wells and area behind the grill were sprayed with rubber coating to blacken and cover the areas. Grill was never added, was looking for a suitable style, but left it open for now. Did notice that there is a crack/dent in the paint on the rear passenger quarter panel, nickel/penny size. Doesn't bother me much, its not a garage queen, but its there. Interior Interior of the car was next on the list of things to do, but did start with a minor refresh. Carpet and trunk carpet is new. Radio/speakers, gauges and A/C unit are aftermarket. New panels were bought and installed to replace cracked/worn ones. What was remaining was the door panels and center console. The center console is not in a bad condition, but the plastic is getting old and brittle, and if you’re going to make it look sleek, best to change it out. Dashboard has a cap, so I am assuming it is cracked. Oil pressure gauge is not reading. The gauge works, but the sender unit from the motor does not seem to be working. Would need to be checked out and replaced. Fuel gauge is not reading correctly. Reads Empty when cell is full, reads Full as cell empties. Though signal was backwards, tested wires to see, was not able to correct the issue. Left it as is for now but problem might be in the sender unit. I know I get about 200 miles to the tank, so I use that to gauge gas. I accidently over calculated the amount of dynomat I thought I would need, so instead of letting it go to waste, in a bout of military genius, I went ahead and dynomatted the entire interior. Definetly cut down on the noise and heat transfer. At the cost of some extra weight sure, but it’s a 5.7 V8…not much of a concern there… Engine Engine was rebuilt, with the pistons being replaced with forged ones for reliability and incase I would decide to push the motor at a later point in time. EFI and wiring system was all removed and replaced with a Holley 4 barrel (4160). Installed MSD distributor. Transmission was also rebuilt, to make sure that engine and tranny would be as solid as possible. Adapter bracket was fitted so that I could also run an A/C system in the Z. Certain things I could forgo but A/C was not one of them. A/C system also now has a modern electric heater, good for defrosting the front on those cool spring or fall days. Alternator is also a slightly upgraded model than what JTR recommended. Necessary? Probably not, but it was the same price as the recommended one. Memory fails me, but want to say from a later year Camaro? Electric fan is mounted on the radiator. Never had any problems with her overheating, even when sitting in traffic with the A/C running in the summer. This was in DC this summer, and last year in the summer. Quite hot if anyone was around there then. Dual exhaust was installed and the rear end was modified to create a clean look with the bottom edge tucking in under the car a bit. Mufflers stick out about an inch, nothing crazy. They are straight pipes, so no cats. Means the growl is louder and the smell is stronger. Can’t tell with the windows closed and the A/C running, but like a true Z, open the windows and you’ll have a nice smell flow back in. So that’s what has been done to the car, as best as I can remember. The car has not been tracked or drag raced. . Again, the Z was worked on to make it as reliable of a driver as possible. I enjoy working on cars, but I enjoy driving them more. Decided to put it all to test by driving it from Virginia to Illinois and back. Zero issues there and back, and the drive and ride itself was an absolute blast. This was done on the old tires and rims. I helped a friend move from Virginia to Ohio, where I hauled the Z to. From there, with the Konigs and Sport Comps, I drove it from Ohio to Illinois. That was the most mileage put on those tires, the rest has simply been local driving around town. What will be included with the sale, will be everything Z related that I own and have acquired over the years. I could probably sell the extra parts separately but time and convenience is the biggest factor for me right now. Reference List Rebuilt 5.7L LT1 with forged pistons Holley carb installed in place of EFI Rebuilt T56 Transmission Custom driveshaft A/C and heater fitment New/Fresh paint with clear, Daytona Blue Pearl New bushings Dual exhaust, straight pipe (no cat) New shocks and coils, lowered 1 inch HID headlight upgrade Shaved gas door Shaved and blended rear end 16 gallon fuel cell New door seals Speedhut gauges Konig Rewinds 16 x 7, silver with matching stems Locking lugnuts GForce Sport Comps 2 (less than 1000 miles on them) MSD dizzy Included with sale: 1 quart paint for touchup or recoatings Fiberglass hood Fiberglass hatch, with glass installed Set of 4 American Racing rims and tires with lugs. Tires need to be replaced. Various set of original gauges and gauge housings. Left and right door windows Left and right quarter windows Right passenger seat in white vinyl, pretty good condition, from a ‘77 Taillight trim and panels from ’77 Z, good condition. There is more in a couple of boxes that is in storage in Ohio which I will be picking up here soon, but some of the stuff that I remember off the top of my head: Holly rebuild kit and various carb parts, manuals and paperwork for A/C unit, various component boxes and paperwork, speaker parts, glove box liner and door, various weather stripping and seals, bushing kits I will be updating this thread with the stuff that is in the boxes as soon as I can get my eyes on them again. Updated pictures will be included as well, weather hasn’t been cooperating much here to allow a cleaning and pictures. In the mean time, I have uploaded pictures of the car when it was done being painted (note the stylish American Racing rims....haha) and the various parts in the car All of the hard work has been done, with only minor bits and pieces that need to be completed. I have contact information for a guy on the forum that makes fiberglass door panels, I can put you in contact with him if interested. Since the engine build up until now, there are almost 3000 miles done on it. I have done synthetic oil in all my cars, this was is no different. Initial oil change was done at 500 miles for any metal burns that might be in there, and I just changed the oil again, with 5W-20 synthetic. Oil filter is Royal Purple. Serious inquiries only please! No tire kickers, no joy rides. Any questions feel free to PM me. You can post it on here, but I may not respond to it right away. 1976 Datsun 280z with 5.7L LT1 v8 from a 1995 Corvette Approximate miles on build: 3,000 miles $16,000
  5. I'm trying to make my 83 z look much better in the front I absolutely dislike the front of it and really like the way the '78s look with the front grill. Is the front clips interchangeable? Or what are some ways I can make the front of my car look "meaner" thanks oh and body kits are something I'm interested in as well
  6. I am selling my newly reapolstered OEM seats. I did a suede diamond tuck in the center to match the OEM vinyl pattern on the trans tunnel and shock towers. I added a slot in the back portion to allow my 4 point harness to slip through. All new padding. All new straps. Fully reconditioned to new. Leather and suede. Driver and passenger. Buyer pays shipping. 500.00 .
  7. Hey guys, I make custom engraved shift knobs. Available in brushed or polished 7075 aluminum, also available in wood. Custom engraved with any design of your choice. I also do custom dimensions, as well as stainless steel weighted inserts. Standard size for the wooden and aluminum knobs is 1.5" diameter, 2.5" height. The cost for these knobs is $45 plus $5.95 shipping. Custom knobs (to your specs) are available! The price will elevate with added length or width, and if weighted inserts are added. Just send me an email or a PM for more details or with any questions, and I would love to help you out! Thank you! You can visit the website for more information: www.bluefiremachineworks.com John Mitchell bluefiremachineworks@gmail.com
  8. I am looking to get a custom bumper / air dam for my 82 s130 non turbo. Any one know where I can get that or who I can contact? I am ok with different types of materials. Company names company links or forum posts helps. I am in the Nor Cal area thanks, -M
  9. I need help getting dimensions for a few parts of an RB20. I currently don't have one or have the current funding to buy one. So I need help to get the following dimensions: cylinder head intake ports, cylinder head valves, cylinder head intake manifold bolt pattern, cylinder placement on block, and spark plug placement on cylinder head. I know I just need to get my hands on one but thats not to easy in the USA. This is so I can make a basic 3D soildworks model to run some solidworks simulations for both of my current projects. Any help is greatly appreciated thank you.
  10. Hi Everyone. I have been using this forum for a while and really appreciate all the great info. Well here is my former daily driver, that I have completely customized. Sadly selling, but hope that the next person will also enjoy it. 1971 Datsun 240Z Series 2 $8000 Clean Title in hand. Registered and fully insured for last 3 years that I have owned it. All work documented with photos and receipts. I also have receipts of previous owner, going back 11+ years. Chevy V8 from a 1973 Camaro - professionally installed Push button start. Starts right up, never a hesitation. Sounds amazing. 700R4 auto trans - rebuilt recently 600cfm Edelbrock 1405. I just had it professionally rebuilt at BFIC, with Daytona aluminum float pins. Holley aluminum intake manifold Hooker Shorty Comp Headers into 2.75" Custom Stainless Exhaust. R200 3.90 rear end custom drive shaft B+M Shifter Custom fiberglass dash with custom airplane-style switches Custom stainless exhaust Custom aluminum Grill custom rear valence - yes those are nissan cube lights! fenders and headlight buckets made into 1 piece. H4 Halogen headlights. Hi Beams work. Shaved blinkers and gas door. Headlight assembly has been fully restored with new parts and gaskets Many parts Sandblasted, and the most of the body sanded down to bare metal, sprayed with 2-part epoxy primer. The interior and floors were sanded down to bare metal and I applied POR15 using the correct 3 step method. I also did the front frame and wheel wells I used Eastwood internal frame coating inside entire frame/chassis/structural areas. Ready for you to pick the paint color! Original color is 918 Orange. NEW PARTS within the past year or so: Champion 3 row aluminum radiator, dual fans Tires all around wiring - all GXL wire, new fuse box seat cushions, and new vinyl covers Fiberglass parts: front bumper, front spoiler, hood, rear hatch, rear spoiler Mallory electric fuel pump - very quiet RCI Aluminum fuel cell - 16 Gallon Autometer gauges and new sensors New parts within past 2 years or so: Starter HEI Distributor Master Brake Cylinder Battery Torque Converter Serious inquiries only. cash only. no trades. Im not a mechanic, but will do my best to answer any questions. I also have a set of new Tokico HP shocks and Eibach springs, and fiberglass flares that I will sell separately. It is located in Downtown Los Angeles.
  11. Up for sale is one of a kind L6 Machined head Intake flange. This is a nice start if you plan built your own L6 Intake manifold. No injector seat drilled, so you can drill the correct one for the injector spec. The runner inlet DIA is 1.755". Big enough to fit AL pipe or for big portting guys. I'm looking for 250$ + shipping + Paypal fee (2.9%) Ask for shipping quote and more info. Tracking, Insurance and Delivery Confirmation will be include in the shipping quote. It will be paypal payment for fast and safe process. Shipping will be done as soon as the payment will be clear. Regards Nismo_ZXT
  12. Hello Hybridz, First, a little about myself and our little startup company. I’m a mechanical engineer with a heavy background in manufacturing and technology. My first car was a ’77 280z. It was a great little project car and a lot of fun to tinker with. I ended up doing a turbo/holset/megasquirt/edis conversion and driving the rings off of it—what a blast. I ended up selling that car and buying a ’74 260z SCCA race: Holley 4 barrel, big cam, headers, light flywheel, straight pipes. It generally terrified passengers and sounded like Barry White gargling wasps. Those two cars gave me a love for Z and an appreciation for the fantastic and knowledgeable community of HybridZ. Our company is a little one at the moment, with three engineers and assorted consultants. We started just last year and have been slowly piecing together the machinery to offer a wide range of rapid prototype services. Our primary objective is to help migrate high technology from the aerospace/medical industries to oil/gas and automotive. Our core technology is Electron Beam 3D melting of exotic materials. We are the only small private company in the world to own an Arcam EBM printer. With over $2mil invested in the machine, training, and R&D, this represents our commitment to staying on the bleeding edge of additive manufacturing. This machine uses a 60,000v electron beam to fuse powder, slice by slice, inside a vacuum chamber. The result is a 99.9% dense, tempered, high tolerance, ASTM-rated material straight out of the machine. The unique geometries that can be produced with this process allow incredible design freedom. The primary material we use is Titanium Ti6Al4v, with Inconel 718 also being possible. Other services include high temperature Ultem 3D plastic printing, precision miniature Stainless/Inconel investment casting, tensile testing, coating, finishing, CNC, and more. Thus far we've worked in conjunction with academia and various O&G/Aero companies to development solutions for their unique needs. Since we’re small and will have to work hard to achieve name recognition for the processes and our company in particular, we’ve agreed to hold various promotions through the different hobbies that our engineers have had. Cars, guns, rocketry, sports, and more. We are really trying to reach out to all those engineers out there that wrench at night and drive a desk designing for industry by day. My car buddies have been tossing around the idea of custom Inconel turbo manifolds. We’re up for trying anything that is a good demonstration of the technology. CAD-to-Metal Contest details: · The most innovative and well-engineered design will be awarded with our rapid prototype services 100% free. Services include Ti6Al4v 3D fusing or Rapid-vest Stainless/Inconel Casting. · Members have until July 1, 2014, to submit designs. Only 3D CAD formats are accepted but a short PowerPoint design presentation is suggested. · Winner will be announced July 4, 2014. · Submissions may be posted here or emailed directly for privacy. · Design components must be sub-system such as intake, exhaust, induction, fuel delivery, power transmission, etc. No complete 7-liter titanium engine blocks, guys! · Geometrical and tolerance limitations do apply. 210mm/210mm/170mm for Ti6Al4v and 1000mm/1000mm/500mm for Stainless/Inconel. Typical tolerances plus minus .007” prior to finish machining. We’ll be running a much larger and more public promotion through GrabCad next month, but this project is just for HybridZ. I’ve seen really fantastic work in the areas of custom intake and exhaust manifolds made on this forum. I encourage all those individuals to participate in the contest, and let us help you realize those ideas. This is truly a no-strings-attached contest. I simply thought it was important to give back to the community with our capabilities. I look forward to seeing your ideas and giving feedback during the design process. Good luck! Sincerely, Andrew McCalip Masson Development amccalip@massondev.com @Massondev
  13. Looking for a body kit for 1974 240Z and one for a 1983 ZX. I am in NC. 336-480-7387 dnicol9260 at gmail
  14. Contact info: Richard M location: oxnard ca. 93030 email: lookitzrich@yahoo.com phone: 805 815 5275 Up for sale is a set of custom one-off three piece billet aluminum wheels with tires. front: 16x8 +6 offset on dunlop direzza 2 (205/50r16) rear: 16x9.5 -6 offset on dunlop direzza 2 (225/45/16). 4.5" lip! No bends, no cracks, wheels are in good condition. Price: $1500 picked up or $1700 shipped. I used 5lug conversion spacers to make it work with my 4lug flared z. i have the rear 5lug spacers if you decided to go this route let me know ill give you a good deal on it. +
  15. Before rewiring basically everything, I am making a switch panel to control all of my circuits. I am also making a panel of circuit breakers in the glove box with maybe a battery shut off switch also. Here is the plan so far: Top buttons - Headlights, tail lights, Interior lights (if I ever get one) Middle area - push button start, ignition power Lower area - Fuel pump, Radiator fan, not sure what else I will post the final results soon. Any suggestions on how to divide my lighting circuits? or for the panel? I was going to do the left separate from the right side, same as the stock fusebox. FYI - Its for a 71 240z with a 350 chevy. I have no wipers, heater, or AC
  16. Hello everyone, doing some major work to my Z that I got out of storage and the center console is shot, I have seen the bmw z3 consoles and they look like they might fit. Anyone try this?
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