Search the Community
Showing results for tags 'seal'.
Found 6 results
-
I'm in the process of installing a long nose R 200 limited slip differential with 280 ZX turbo tripod half shafts into a 240 Z. I have transferred the dust shield from the 240 Z companion flange to the 280 ZX turbo companion flange, although I'm not exactly sure why I needed to do that. However, as many of you know, there is a problem with the grease seal. There have been writeups in the past on this recommending using the R200 Pinion seal with the rubber removed off of the outside of the seal. However, in my circumstance, it was too large by 0.080in. By measuring the seal journal of the 280 ZX Turbo companion flange and the inner diameter of the housing for the 240 Z, I came up with the dimensions of 40 mm for the outside diameter of the companion flange seal journal, and 72 mm for the inside diameter of the 240 Z housing. So, there are several sources that make a 40 x 72 x 10mm grease seal. I ordered one from Timken and it was a perfect fit! Problem solved! I found this seal simply by google search. I hope this helps anyone trying to do this conversion. -
I'm in the process of installing a long nose R 200 limited slip differential with 280 ZX turbo tripod half shafts into a 240 Z. I have transferred the dust shield from the 240 Z companion flange to the 280 ZX turbo companion flange, although I'm not exactly sure why I needed to do that. However, as many of you know, there is a problem with the grease seal. There have been writeups in the past on this recommending using the R200 Piñon seal with the rubber removed off of the outside of the seal. However, in my circumstance, it was too large by 0.8 mm. By measuring the seal journal of the 280 ZX Turbo companion flange and the inner diameter of the housing for the 240 Z, I came up with the dimensions of 40 mm for the outside diameter of the companion flange seal journal, and 72 mm for the inside diameter of the 240 Z housing. So, there are several sources that make a 40 x 72 x 10mm grease seal. I ordered this from Timken and it was a perfect fit! Problem solved! I found this seal simply by google search. I hope this helps anyone trying to do this conversion.
-
hi guys! Realized today that not only do I have some water leaking from my t-top seal (right at the top of the a pillar, where the car seal meets the t-top seal), but I have quite the air gad where the window meets the b-pillar.. I'm guessing the seal has sagged and lost elasticity after all these years and isn't pushing on the window anymore. My current budget for the whole car (and there a quite a few things due) is zero dollars. so I was thinking of being creative to fix the seal. I though of maybe injecting something that would "inflate" the seal, ideally some kind of rubber foam of some sort, but that would be messy and inconsistent at best. Then I realized that most weather seals are essentially rubber tubes, and that I could possibly insert a rubber tube within the weatherstrip, which would basically make it behave like new. I checked it out online and found two references wher people had successufully done this with other cars (this is one, the other is a youtube vid doing the same thing ish... https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/body/741222-t-top-car-help.html) I was curious if anyone had any old seals that were cut up so i can get a picture of the cross section. It could tell me if the idea would work on tour seals and what diameter tube I could potentially use, as a bonus.... also, any opinions or suggestions are welcomed
-
Hello HybridZ, I have been in the process of rebuilding an L28 engine with mild cam i picked up for $250 with a 5 speed. The block is a F54 with N47 head and has P79 pistons. The previous owner said "it only needs new valve seals to run right"... So I hot tanked the block, installed new rings, valve seals, some bolts here and there, all gaskets, and seals...and some more parts (cant remember at the moment: nothing major though) Now that i am assembling the new engine, the rear main seal is of incorrect size. I originally ordered an aftermarket one off motorsport auto, but it does not match the one out of the block. I took it back, and tried my luck with black dragon's rear main seal...but that did not work either. So i spent all of today scouring the internet for the origin of this seal from my block. The original seal is labeled "NDK - angus", as well as "SGL2 80 100 13 si". Even searching the measurements did nothing for me. The guy who helped me at motorsport auto (i forget his name unfortunately) told me that all L6 motors from L24 through L28 turbo blocks use the size they offer, but it does not seem to fit. Any help would be greatly appreciated. I will post pictures shortly. - Wes
-
Can someone post a pic or describe to me the placement of the seal with regard to the hatch lip? I found a pic online so I can figure how to install the side pieces, but the top is a little confusing. I know which side of the seal is the top, but it looks like it just wants to sit inside of the hatch lip, rather than ON it like the side strips. My car didn't have these pieces when I bought it. Although to be honest it's possible I would've pulled it off without taking pictures before starting my resto.
-
Hi all, I have a '76 280z that's essentially bone stock. When I started driving yesterday, I had a couple drips of water fall on me. Condensation on my windows is nothing new to me, but when I looked up, I noticed that there were a bunch of water droplets hanging on my headliner! They were almost all right above the driver seat. I'm getting the feeling that this isn't normal, and probably isn't very healthy for the headliner. I'm pretty sure I have a leak in the firewall that goes to the driver side floor, but I don't think that would cause it? Do I just have to replace all of the weatherstip gaskets around the car? Thanks, - Pac_Man
