Jump to content
HybridZ

Anyone wire tuck on s30 before?


Recommended Posts

Has anyone attempt to do a wiring tuck on there s30? I have seen some 240z, that has did it before and it look super nice and clean. Im just carious if anyone here on hybridz had attempt on doing it. How was the experience, headache or was it straight forward easy? I'm thinking about doing this on my 260z soon and would like ideas from experts. Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 weeks later...

There's no single way to do it. Just buy some wire in the appropriate sizes/colors, a soldering iron, some heat shrink, and start lengthening/shortening wires. Get creative with the routes. For example, I put the ignition box under the cowl routed the wiring down through the cab then back out to the inner fender where I mounted the ignition coil. Get creative, but don't get lazy. Make sure what you're doing is safe.

 

It also helps to eliminate wiring you wont use as you go. That way you don't have to worry about tucking it.

 

Make sure it all works before you start putting things back together.

 

71506_644032835979_10803554_36735988_2388300_n.jpg

Edited by inZane 240
Link to post
Share on other sites

I've done it to a 240 I had about 10 years ago, it takes time, patients and plenty of forethought. I routed the headlights, signals and horn through the fresh air duct and then ran the starter wire, battery cables, alternator wiring and dizzy wiring down the transmission mount/transmission then down the oil pan and up to the dizzy. At the time I was able to re-use the original harness but I sliced it open and eliminated some non-essential wires and then re-wrapped it, I put an odyssey PC680 under the passenger seat for my power needs.

 

I would highly recommend getting that expandable sleeve the Inzane posted OR plastic spiral wrap if you prefer but don't ever use that convoluted tubing junk. You could also just heat wrap the entire thing if you've thought things through enough. Also you could start with and EZ-Wiring harness or equivalent to make things a bit easier.

 

take a look at the following websites for everything you need:

 

Keep it clean

 

performance plus connection

 

Performance connection systems

 

Nelco products

 

Mikes XS Factory style connectors plus more.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Im doing this to while im in my rb26 swap i plan on routing mostly throught the fenders and i got some aluminium flexible electrician pipes that are 1,5" OD to protect the wires froms road hazards. Ill post pics in the process. Thanks for the link of the conneters Mikes Xs has some great prices.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 4 months later...

Bumping this thread as I don't feel my questions warrant a new one...

 

I've been looking for ways to clean up and modernize the injector and COP harnesses (I'm using 1 fast Z's COP bracket seen HERE). I'm trying to avoid split corrugated wire loom like the plague, and would like to also keep from just covering the entire harness with nylon wire sheathing. That being said, I've done some searching for modern vehicles with straight 6's that might have something adaptable, and I've come up with this from BMW:

 

5199110568_bd8cf3973a.jpg

 

I figure I can remove the rubber boots/plugs and rewire with nylon sheathing and shrink wrap to go between the cover and plugs I need. I could then attach the harness covers to either side of the valve cover and run the wires out the back end, cleanly consolidating both harnesses.

 

Questions:

 

Any other vehicles that might have something better suited for this?

 

Any obvious problems with this that I'm overlooking?

 

Anybody do anything to clean up the harness similar to this (or different from the typical loom)?

 

EDIT:

 

Found THIS site where someone takes the same cover and modifies it to work with their harness... At least shows what I intend to do is doable!

Edited by LanceVance
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...

I did a complete wire tuck on my 260z a month or two back. It's very clean. What I did was run the entire main harness through the hallow fender frame channel(fresh Air passage). And moved all the fuses, and other units inside the car in the passenger side under the dash. The channel is the perfect size. You'll run the entire harness back into the car through the firewall hole, then use a long piece of coat hanger or I used a thick tubing, or cable, pushed it from the front through and taped the tip of the harnesses and pulled it through. You'll need to zip tie or temporarily tape up the main harness so it's as skinny as possible. Then run alternator, starter extensions.

 

I still have the battery in the front, just didn't want to do the battery relocation yet. overally no wires showing, and it runs just the way it sits in this picture. I also deleted a lot of wires I dont' need anymore, like A/C and EGR, ignition coil is moved to the front of the car, so nothing is in the engine bay.

 

I also cleaned up the fuel rail lines, as I made/bent my own out of some left over 240sx fuel lines I had laying around. Bunch of other little details and it makes the engine bay really clean. Keep it clean, SOLDER, heat shrink wrap everything, and use shielded spade connectors.

 

 

The spark plug wires are autozone duralast cheapo's eventually I'll make custom ones and route the plug wires along the front side of the engine making it a lot cleaner, but as of right now, it's damn clean and it will do. I will also make a fuse/relay holding board for all the units that I moved inside the car, so much to do, so little time and $$$$.

 

To save money I had to be innovative. I used left over 240sx parts, 300zx parts, and zip ties, and brackets from 240sx. The spark plug wire seperators are just white zip ties zipped together. Instead of using rubber hoses, I had left over hardlines, bought a tubing bender for a few bunks and measured and bent simple 90* degree bends and gives it a much cleaner look. I did tubing for the fuel, booster vacuum, and vacuum advance on the dizzy. It gives it a nice shape and no sagging rubber hoses everywhere..

 

I bought a hot rod vertical overflow tank which figs perfectly with the tabs on the aluminum and stock radiator, I shimmed the overflow tank with 2 "Stanley" sockes, you can use cheapo harborfreight as spacers. I believe 2 new 12mm chrome deep sockets, and bought two long M6x1.25 bolts and that was that. So cheap little mods that look good and you don't need too much money

 

SDC13876.jpg

SDC13765.jpg

SDC13763.jpg

 

SDC13768.jpg

Edited by Ducer
Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 7 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...