jacob80 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) Hey fellas, I've dropped an L28ET into my car and bought the ATL black box to convert my fuel tank to a fuel cell. Now, the next step in the process is to bend new lines (3/8" = -6 AN) and drop them in. My question: What line material/fuel lines should I use (include brand, source, etc) because I have run into some hard lines that if you try to bend them, they will collapse at the bend and are then useless. Also, would it be a bad idea to run braided stainless steel instead of hard lines? I know hard lines are preferrable, but are they absolutely necessary? Would this tubing do the job?: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002VRI0UM/sr=1-12/qid=1308583547/ref=pop?ie=UTF8&s=automotive&qid=1308583547&sr=1-12 Your help is appreciated. Thanks guys. Edited June 20, 2011 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 If you go to an NHRA Track to run, hard lines ARE necessary. They specify how many inches of flexible non-hardline is acceptable in each class. This isn't that hard a job, and there are several recent posts where the process is detailed quite well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted June 20, 2011 Author Share Posted June 20, 2011 (edited) If you go to an NHRA Track to run, hard lines ARE necessary. They specify how many inches of flexible non-hardline is acceptable in each class. This isn't that hard a job, and there are several recent posts where the process is detailed quite well. This is what I was afraid of, damn regulations! I rang Earl's and explained to the gentleman on the phone what I was trying to do, and he assured me that running Speed Flex line would be fine, but made no mention of regulations, rules, etc. This car will primarily be a weekend warrior and go on the occasional track day. Aside from the NHRA, is there any reason I shouldn't go with full up braided lines? I'm not opposed to running stainless steel lines, I just read so many horror stories of how much of a pain in the butt it is (kinking, etc). With a 240z, would to be possible to simply pull out the stock line that runs the length of the body, bend up a line to essentially duplicate it, and throw it in? I would be installing AN fittings on the ends and running flexible line to the tank and the fuel rail (short runs, of course). Thanks! Edited June 20, 2011 by jacob80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted June 20, 2011 Share Posted June 20, 2011 I'm not opposed to running stainless steel lines, I just read so many horror stories of how much of a pain in the butt it is (kinking, etc). With a 240z, would to be possible to simply pull out the stock line that runs the length of the body, bend up a line to essentially duplicate it, and throw it in? I would be installing AN fittings on the ends and running flexible line to the tank and the fuel rail (short runs, of course). Thanks! Kinking? It's not that bad if you use a proper bending tool. Yes, you could do that, of course the stock fuel/brake rubber isolation mounts would need to be enlarged if you ran larger tube. To connect AN fittings all you would need would be the appropriate size tube nuts, sleeves, and a 37 degree flaring tool (NOT a 45 degree, that's for brake lines). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted June 21, 2011 Author Share Posted June 21, 2011 Kinking? It's not that bad if you use a proper bending tool. Yes, you could do that, of course the stock fuel/brake rubber isolation mounts would need to be enlarged if you ran larger tube. To connect AN fittings all you would need would be the appropriate size tube nuts, sleeves, and a 37 degree flaring tool (NOT a 45 degree, that's for brake lines). That would be preferable, but I don't think the stock fuel line diameter is adequate. I'm looking to pump out about 500 hp someday. I think I may just run the braided stainless steel lines. Someone tell me if this is really a poor decision. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted June 22, 2011 Author Share Posted June 22, 2011 Plans have changed a tad bit. I came across Rossman's thread and decided to pick up a 20' stick of 304SS 3/8" OD tubing for a whopping $22! That's a steal if you ask me. My plan is to run the return and feed in this size down the main stretch of the body, flare the ends, and attach female AN fittings and run braided stuff to my tank and fuel rail. Boom. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 22, 2011 Share Posted June 22, 2011 Amazing what you find when you search, huh? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted June 24, 2011 Author Share Posted June 24, 2011 Thats right, Tony. Now to find someone to let me borrow their tube bender and stainless steel 37* flaring tool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 (edited) Wrong State, sorry to say... I have the 1/2, 3/8 and 1/4" SWAGELOCK benders. Absolute JOY to use. Jeff P borrowed them from me to do his fuel system AND I'M STILL WAITING JEFF.....(hint hint! ) Seriously, the Swagelock benders are wonderful, they are also like $247 each. I know mine were, but hey it was for the US Navy, on the HOSPITAL SHIP Mercy, so I kinda felt justified in the purchase. To say I did awesome tubing would be bragging, and I don't like to brag...but...damn it looked nice. And in the end USN paid for it all, and I retained use of the benders for...uh..."Personal Usage" Oh, and the 37 degree tool....again compliments of the USAF on a DPDO sale of 'surplus tools' where I got a PALLET of tools (along with wall lockers and a freakin' copy machine!) for a whopping sum of $28... Little did I know that pallet included like 50 Snap-On inch-pound torquemeters. I was giving them away as gifts. I think Jeff has that one as well from his attempts at setting pinion crush sleeves on R200's.... Hey Jeff, where's my tools dude? Edited June 25, 2011 by Tony D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted June 25, 2011 Share Posted June 25, 2011 Yeah that is the problem with doing hardline, you got to get the tools. Lucky for me, I was able to borrow them. jacob80 - If you haven't found a decent 37 degree flaring tool, anplumbing.com sells a nice Parker tool for $175. It's the cheapest one I could find that would do stainless. Good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Alonso* Posted July 5, 2011 Share Posted July 5, 2011 I purchased a 37degree flaring tool by Rigid. Really nice piece,great price, and can do titanium tubing if needed.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 You know, I think this is one of those tools that I would use all of once. If someone would be kind enough to let me borrow theirs, that would be awesome. I don't see myself flaring too many hardlines in the future. If it comes down to it, I'll pick up one of the Ridgid ones. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NewZed Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 Most of the auto parts stores have loaner tools. Pay a deposit, use it, return it, get your money back. I've seen the brake line flaring kits at O'Reillys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted July 25, 2011 Author Share Posted July 25, 2011 Most of the auto parts stores have loaner tools. Pay a deposit, use it, return it, get your money back. I've seen the brake line flaring kits at O'Reillys. Unfortunately, these loaner tools will be a 45* flare...I'm looking for a 37* flare tool for AN fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 25, 2011 Share Posted July 25, 2011 (edited) You can get an AN flare tool from Summit. They have a cheap ass Chinese tool and a nicer American tool. I didn't intend to do hundreds of flares, so I bought the cheap one. I did my fuel and brake system plumbing and only had to redo two flares on the whole project. Works fine for me, I bet it would work fine for you too. The one thing I've read about stainless is that if you use a regular tubing cutter you can work harden the end and then it's more likely to split the flare. Someone who has some actual experience with stainless might help out more with that problem or tell you that it isn't a problem at all. EDIT-Coffey told me to buy a magnifying glass and check each flare. Good advice. One of the cracks that I found was really hard to see without it. Edited July 25, 2011 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 Thanks for the advice. I'd rather use the correct tool and avoid splitting the end at all costs. Would it be bad for me to buy one from Speedway motors and return it when I am done? They're ~$175! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 (edited) Yes, and besides, most places won't accept returns on tools for just that reason. Splitting ends are possible with any tool, not just the cheap ones. http://www.summitrac...rts/SUM-900311/ Edited July 26, 2011 by JMortensen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 You could just buy one then sell it on ebay when you are done with it. I was going to do that before I discovered my coworker had one. It's a Rigid model. It wont fully flare a 1/2 inch stainless tube using the handle. I have to put a wrench on the flats below the handle to get a full flare. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jacob80 Posted July 26, 2011 Author Share Posted July 26, 2011 Yes, and besides, most places won't accept returns on tools for just that reason. Splitting ends are possible with any tool, not just the cheap ones. http://www.summitrac...rts/SUM-900311/ This item specifically states that it won't flar stainless steel, which is what I'm using. Ross, what are the chances of me borrowing your buddy's tool? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted July 26, 2011 Share Posted July 26, 2011 Hmm... that must mean that it's a serious PITA. There is another option. Get some aluminum fuel line (or anything else not stainless steel) and the cheap flare tool. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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