Jump to content
HybridZ

Difficult Cam Sprocket


WreZ

Recommended Posts

So I'm trying to replace my valve oil seals (with the head on the engine) I've tried everything, breaker bar, hitting ratchet w/rubber mallet, heating the sprocket bolt a bit with a torch. My friend suggested placing a thick screwdriver in one of the holes in the sprocket but i don't know exactly where/how. So I guess what i'm asking is, Any protips?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Not the rubber mallet. Use the steel mallet. This requires IMPACT and VIBRATION. I just went through this today. However, the rest of the engine was going in the trash, so pounding so hard was easy on my stomach. An impact gun might be a more sanitary approach.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

... and don let the Crescent damage the valve cover mating surface. Actually, I can't even remember what that looks like so you may not be able to damage it. I still prefer impact gun instead of the breaker bar.

Edited by ShaggyZ
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Why are you trying to remove the cam sprocket bolt?

 

You can change the valve seals without having to remove the bolt.

 

???

manual said to remove cam, remove valve springs and then remove the seals. If i didn't remove the cam how could i get a valve spring compressor in there?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

manual said to remove cam, remove valve springs and then remove the seals. If i didn't remove the cam how could i get a valve spring compressor in there?

 

Long screwdriver. Little tricky at first but you should have it down by the time you're done (only done this on a P90 hydro head)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

manual said to remove cam, remove valve springs and then remove the seals. If i didn't remove the cam how could i get a valve spring compressor in there?

 

Because the standard method to compress the valve springs on the Nissan L-head is to use a spring compressor such as KD3087 that hooks around the camshaft and uses it as a lever.

 

A procedure is shown here:

 

http://www.oocities.org/inlinestroker/seals.html

 

I prefer to use compressed air to hold the valves closed. It’s quicker than messing with the rope method.

post-237-075457000 1318466823_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hit it with an impact wrench and you'll wonder how you lived without one :).

 

 

Agreed! I used my battery operatated one to unbolt my cam and it worked like a charm. Bought it as a kit with another drill and it sat in the drawer forever. Didn't realize what I had....

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks Zcar that link helped a lot, didn't know you could remove the valves that way. Alright so i was able to get the cam sprocket off but now that i don't need it off anymore it won't go back on the cam, I didn't let the chain droop or anything but it just won't go on. Does that mean i have to mess with my tensioner or are my arms just made of toothpicks?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Did you use a wedge to keep the tensioner from extending? If it extended and popped out of it's cylinder, you will probably need to pull the timing cover off. You can always try to gently pry the tensioner back into place from the top, but that is a longshot.

Edited by cygnusx1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Even with the wedge at the tensioner, I always had trouble getting the sprocket back on. I somewhat foolishly would stick a small rod or philip's head screwdriver and shove it through the bolt hole of the sprocket into the cam and give a little upward leveraging. Never damaged the internal threads but often worried about it. But first, read below to make sure your tensioner is all the way in.

 

You definitely do NOT have to take off the front cover to get the tensioner back in all the way. I'm a pro now at getting it to slide back in; takes maybe 10 seconds. Just need a long screwdriver and good lighting down there. With a little upward tension on the chain, push down gently on the tensioner's slider with the screwdriver until it slides in the rest of the way. This should not take much muscle at all. Since learning this method, I don't try to hard to keep it from coming out, partly because the wood wedge I used would put sawdust or splinters in the oil.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Crap I think this whole situation just got FUBAR, while wiggling the sprocket onto the timing chain I accidentally erased all 3 paint/orientation marks I made on the chain...Am I completely screwed on this? Before I removed the sprocket I cranked the engine until the outer 1 marker on the cam sprocket was completely vertical if that helps (vertical as in it lined up with the upper thrust washer bolt)

 

I try to just change out some seals but life never lets me just get away with that, nope its gotta be a learning experience...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yeah, put the crank on TDC and the cam mark on the mark and install chain and sprocket. Make sure the drivers side of the chain is taut and the tensioner is in place. Chain marks mean nothing as long as the cam and crank are in the right place relative to eachother.

Edited by cygnusx1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

This tensioner is kicking my ass, I can't seem to get the right combo of chain tension and screwdriver force to get it to go back in! Anybody else have any more protips on getting the tensioner shaft back into its seat?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...