DREW RBZ Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 That is what we did on one side. That would be your best option as you have limited access to the tunnel. Really stiffens things up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 (edited) Ill have to dig up a photo of my cage but basically you want the main hoop to start as close to the rocker as possible, i used the original pocket that the seatbelt sits in and welded my 6x6 plate to that, i also had to modify the rear inner fender for more clearence. The fuel cell mounting is not 100% as those mounting tabs are in no way shape or form designed to support all the weight of the cell along with the fuel its carrying. You need a strap, or in my case i built a basket for the fuel cell to sit in. It may work but as it is but just keep an eye on those mounting tabs to make sure cracks arent developing. Itll probably be fine but id look into building some sort of more relaible mounting system where you know for sure its 100% The main hoop should be fixed but it looks like a good part of your cage will need to be redone. Edited January 2, 2013 by 240zdan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DREW RBZ Posted January 2, 2013 Author Share Posted January 2, 2013 Ill have to dig up a photo of my cage but basically you want the main hoop to start as close to the rocker as possible, i used the original pocket that the seatbelt sits in and welded my 6x6 plate to that, i also had to modify the rear inner fender for more clearence. The fuel cell mounting is not 100% as those mounting tabs are in no way shape or form designed to support all the weight of the cell along with the fuel its carrying. You need a strap, or in my case i built a basket for the fuel cell to sit in. It may work but as it is but just keep an eye on those mounting tabs to make sure cracks arent developing. Itll probably be fine but id look into building some sort of more relaible mounting system where you know for sure its 100% The main hoop should be fixed but it looks like a good part of your cage will need to be redone. Thanks for the reply. The fuel cell mounting tab concern had already been brought up by another member and will be at addressed with the addition of straps. In terms of the cage I am understanding that the bend the cage takes at the base where it mounts to the floor is the main concern and should be straightened and put closer to the rocker? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZT-R Posted January 2, 2013 Share Posted January 2, 2013 What about triangulating the existing hoop with another bar that goes to the edge of the rocker? Might be better than nothing? I don't know anything about roll bars though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck1545 Posted January 8, 2013 Share Posted January 8, 2013 (edited) I agree with all the statements above about the cage, not about triangulating a main hoop with downlegs though. Although if its just for show I wouldn't particularly worry about changing the design now. My main hoop was built on 74_5.0l's spec sheet and was so tight to the rockers that I had to hook a ratchet strap to the ends of the legs and squeeze them into the car. Removing the tension on the strap once it was in place allowed the hoop to 'spring' up against the rockers...thats how tight it needs to be for safety concerns. The more important matter of the fuel cell though, yes you most definitely need to change the mounting! No way will those 'locating' tabs be enough to support the weight of a fully fueled cell...and then drive around town an hit bumps! Personally I built mine out of a 1"x1" square tube full cage with four down legs, welded the nuts inside the legs and made a fully supporting cage for the bottom of the cell to bolt up into the down legs. Ill try to get some better pics for you when I'm free to do so but heres some pics to give you somewhat of an idea of what I'm talking about. Edited January 8, 2013 by redneck1545 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240zdan Posted January 11, 2013 Share Posted January 11, 2013 (edited) redneck: thats exactly how i designed my main hoop. as close to the rockers as possible where the seatbelt pocket used to be. This really is the best spot to put it.. Triangulating the hoop... what a nono may as well weld rebar to the hoops connecting it to the body. Remember this guys building a very award capable zed here. If I were you id bitch at the fabricator regardless of what your using the car for. He should know better than to butcher a main hoop like that if he has any sort of cage building experience After all its your ride and you want it to be 100 perfect, judging by the amount of clear thats laid underneath it. Another thing to consider is that the rear support bars do not even interact with the rear shock tower in any way. Any decent cage builder would consider suspension point into his designs, extending them that far to the rear floor pan doesnt do much for the rigidity of the chassis Edited January 11, 2013 by 240zdan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DREW RBZ Posted January 12, 2013 Author Share Posted January 12, 2013 Thanks very much for the constictive critisism on the cage and fuel cell fellas. I am going to be leaving it alone at this time. I realize that there are problems with the design and will use it as a learning experience. With the chassis strengthening done to the underside of the car the cage will suffice for my current plans for the car which is street and local shows. I will most likely get another chassis for a track car when the time comes. This current car has a lot of extra weight in dynamat etc to be a true track car. Going to paint next week!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
redneck1545 Posted March 6, 2013 Share Posted March 6, 2013 Patiently awaiting paint pics...I'm trying to decide between KAD and KAC paint codes! lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gixxer Squid Posted April 7, 2013 Share Posted April 7, 2013 This is a really nice build. Lots of attention to detail. I have a 4 year work in progress thats in the paint shop getting that final detail and it will be done. Almost all the exact components you have in your car (except I stuck with inline 6). Cant wait to see your end result. J Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DREW RBZ Posted July 22, 2013 Author Share Posted July 22, 2013 (edited) Its been quite a while since I lasted posted any progress on the car. I got married in February to my beautiful wife Isabelle. We went to Panama for our honeymoon then came back and finished building our new house which we moved into mid April.. So...its been a little busy I have done a fair bit of work to the car and it is now in paint and we are in the process of wiring the chassis and engine harness. First off I will post a few more pictures of the front brake setup as I had a few questions about it. The fronts are "big red" Porsche calipers. The mounting brackets are aluminum and were CNC machined by Rick Wong. The 13 inch rotors and aluminum hats are full floating from Coleman Racing Products. http://www.colemanracing.com The outside diameter was turned down a fraction to fit the Porsche Caliper. The front hubs are custom CNC machined out of Aluminum by Rick Wong. Driver seat is a Corbeau FX1 Pro mounted on universal slider. [/url 12 circuit PAINLESS ( not entirely painless!) chassis wiring harness arrived and is partly installed in the car. The engine harness was ordered from Yury at Wiring Specialties. This harness is very nice and well put together. It really makes things neat and tidy and I will not have to deal with old crappy wiring like I did on my last build using the original RB26 harness. http://www.wiringspecialties.com/ Edited July 22, 2013 by DREW RBZ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EF Ian Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 Some very very nice bits there. With that wiring harness, does it make doing an RB swap easy, as in is it pretty much a plug and play harness for a RB26 Z? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LLave Posted July 22, 2013 Share Posted July 22, 2013 I would be interested in a set of those hubs, is the producing them or were they 1 offs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DREW RBZ Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 Some very very nice bits there. With that wiring harness, does it make doing an RB swap easy, as in is it pretty much a plug and play harness for a RB26 Z? Its pretty much as plug and play as you can get. The nice thing is you can customize the harness to your specs, depending on injector type, MAF vs MAP etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DREW RBZ Posted July 23, 2013 Author Share Posted July 23, 2013 I would be interested in a set of those hubs, is the producing them or were they 1 offs? These were made circa 2001! I dont think Rick is doing any more pieces other than for his new personal build. He is on here from time to time as skyline240z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skyline240z Posted July 25, 2013 Share Posted July 25, 2013 Hey your are back, good to see some progress. Still making custom parts on the side to help fund my project, let me know if you need something custom machining too. keep posting. I would be interested in a set of those hubs, is the producing them or were they 1 offs? Hi there, I have one in stock, but the holes are not drill yet because people might want 4 or 5 lugs. If interested let me know. Rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DREW RBZ Posted August 31, 2013 Author Share Posted August 31, 2013 Wiring is almost done. Ill get some pictures up shortly. In the meantime I managed to track down my dyno sheets for this setup. The dyno used is a Dynapack chassis dyno. http://www.dynapackusa.com/product.htm The tuning was done by Robin Almasi of Almasi tuning/Synoptic tuning in Montreal Quebec in August 2010. Two weeks later I crashed that car... The drivetrain was saved and is now in this new chassis. Graph #1: Manifold pressure / HP Graph #2: AFR / HP Graph #3: Torque /HP Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted August 31, 2013 Share Posted August 31, 2013 Waiting patiently for the coming out pics!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
softopz Posted September 29, 2015 Share Posted September 29, 2015 the car is done lets see it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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