What battery is everyone using

[ktm]

Deka Sports Power ETX-30....have had it in for a year, and it's been working well so far. It's nice having such a compact and light-weight battery.

 

There's enough of a drain on it (clock, stereo, computerized fan control) that I need to disconnect it (via battery cut-off switch) if I don't drive the car every few days or so.

 

 

Same here. Deka makes most of the ATV batteries. Deka is a battery manufacturer, not a relabeler like Braille (yes, they relabel Deka), etc. It has no capacity whatsoever, so you can't leave your radio or lights on otherwise it will drain the battery. However, it is an AGM, rechargeable, light and inexpensive ($80).

[Chemicalblue]

 

 

The yellow top is not recommended as a starting battery, it is designed as a deep cycle battery, and when used as a starting battery, they tend to have a short life. I also find that people that say that Optimas are "junk" use the battery in tye wrong application. There are also factory seconds sold through companies like Walmart, Sam's Club and similar places that many people bought and experienced problems with that also gave the brand a bad name.

So use the proper battery for the use, and a factory first, along with proper maintenance and care, for a battery that lasts and works.

 

 

 

Sorry your miss informed. I purchased the very first version of the redtop optima when they came out and had nothing but trouble with it discharging and going dead. After the company warrantied them for a few years they recommended the yellow top for high load electrical systems. After switching Ive never had an issue. Here is what their website says

 

"The YellowTop® high-performance AGM battery is one of the only true dual-purpose automotive batteries available. With premium cranking power and unparalleled cycling capability (rechargeability), it is perfect for modern accessory-loaded vehicles. The YellowTop can repeatedly bounce back from deep power drains to full energy capacity, so it can power plenty of electronics and still start you up time after time. Lower internal resistance also provides more consistent power output and faster recharges.

 

Trucks with winches, vehicles with multiple electronics, cars with high-demand audio systems, commercial vehicles and heavy equipment all rely on this battery to provide ultimate starting and deep cycle power."

[PR280z]

I have the INTERSTATE BATTERY, going on three years now.No problems yet!

[texis30O]

After a visit to Batteries Plus I puchased a X2 Power battery, 17.2 lbs, 320CCA, 109.00, I got the posts to convret the batter for auto use as well. It should work good. I am glad everyone chimed in. I would have just gone and bought another big battery.....that would not have been so hybridz of me now would it......I will update this thread as time goes on. I have a 2 year warranty with it as well. Time will tell....

[Six_Shooter]

Sorry your miss informed. I purchased the very first version of the redtop optima when they came out and had nothing but trouble with it discharging and going dead. After the company warrantied them for a few years they recommended the yellow top for high load electrical systems. After switching Ive never had an issue. Here is what their website says

 

"The YellowTop® high-performance AGM battery is one of the only true dual-purpose automotive batteries available. With premium cranking power and unparalleled cycling capability (rechargeability), it is perfect for modern accessory-loaded vehicles. The YellowTop can repeatedly bounce back from deep power drains to full energy capacity, so it can power plenty of electronics and still start you up time after time. Lower internal resistance also provides more consistent power output and faster recharges.

 

Trucks with winches, vehicles with multiple electronics, cars with high-demand audio systems, commercial vehicles and heavy equipment all rely on this battery to provide ultimate starting and deep cycle power."

 

I'm not misinformed, Optima has changed their sales pitch on the Yellow top battery at some point.

 

The Red top was designed as a starting battery.

 

The yellow top was designed as a deep cycle battery.

 

People have used Yellow tops as starting batteries, I'm not sure why anyone would though.

 

In my personal experience and observations, the yellow top fails much more frequently when used as a starting battery, then a Red top does.

I have had vehicles that I had to diagnose why the yellow tops were failing, and at the end of it swapped them to a red top without changing anything else and the problem was solved.

[bjhines]

Odyssey PC-680 to start the V8. No problems for 2 years.

[emeraldlion]

I have a low compression 283(8.5:1) installed right now and minimal accessories. I just received my deka/big-crank etx-14l. I will let you guys know how it fares once I intall it and crank. 220 CCA measured at 0* with a 12AH rating (10H rate). Haven't seen what the 32* or CA ratings are. This is the same as the deka etx-14. 75 bucks shipped from battery mart

[zxtman]

I've had a red top for more than 12 years and it's still cranking.

[needforspeed]

Newbie here just trying to sort out the gremlins in my 73 240 that the PO installed a 350 SBC and T-5 into. One of the first items of business is to upgrade the battery from a well worn Suburu one that was in the car when I purchased it. Have tried my best to pull from different posts here on Hybrid Z but still not clear on what combo to use regarding the physical sizing and securing using the stock setup. I have the original passenger side tray (which is in remarkably good shape) and I need input into what battery best fits in the stock area and if other owners suggest buying the battery tray to mount under it. I also need to determine how best to secure the battery without having to drill holes or add mounting tabs to the stock setup if at all possible.

 

So in a nutshell, compression is in the 8's and I will be running minimal accessories (electric fan and occasional radio when parked (radio will be added in distant future. I am currently still have the amp meter setup that she came with but might go to a volt meter on the suggestion of a seasoned gear-head I know.

 

Need to know:

1. Best size battery that fits in stock setup

2. Securing options including whether the short battery tray is a good addition while still allowing good

3. Should I go with gel style to avoid having to worry about leakage onto my very good condition factory tray and inner fenderwell?

4. Brand suggestions seem to be covered in this post but if there is an advantage due to a shape in the fit or securing department, please share.

 

Proper fit and performance are paramount so I am willing to spend more money if that will help keep keep me driving rather than pushing. Would like to spend less than $150 but would consider a bit more if there is a notable advantage to the additional investment.

 

Thanks in advance for your input....

Edited April 26, 2012 by needforspeed

[74_L26e_(Z0E)]

Ive been running an interstate MT-34 CCA 700 in my 260z. The only issue i had with it was that it sits lower (about 2 inches) than the mounting bolt and bracket which is the MSA battery hold down kit. quick fix consisted of a 2x4 wood block made to measure and placed underneath the battery its never let me down. Its been in my car for 2 years and bought new its about $75-$80 and since mine was used, got from an alfa romeo GTV6 that has been retired, I got for 20 bucks and to me thats one hell of a deal

Edited May 23, 2012 by 74_L26e_(Z0E)

[motomanmike]

AGM's are sensitive to charge voltage being that they can't vent but are the best for the application as they will never drip battery acid. I use lead acid batteries, Deka brand, 624mf part number. I've thought about AGM batteries but the auto group sizes are steep.

[HowlerMonkey]

I got an everstart 24ms-6 marine battery from walmart at least 3 years ago and it just recently survived leaving my lights on for a few hours.

 

With marine batteries, you get stronger plates to deal with the huge pounding boats take but care must be taken to get the proper marine battery.

 

With Everstart marine batteries, 24ms-6 is a 24 family battery with "MS" standing for "motor start" while the neverstart batteries with "dp" mean deep cycle.

 

Deep cycle batteries love to trickle energy out slowly over long periods but might struggle with cranking amperage.

 

I use the extra terminals for a supplementry body to negative terminal ground and the extra positive terminal sits waiting for use to power something heavy duty.

 

Positive terminal is on the right of this battery but I did no research as to whether it is available with the terminals swapped.

 

It was substantially cheaper than the 24 series auto batteries on the automotive side of the display rack but that might have been a fluke or sale.

 

Edited July 24, 2012 by HowlerMonkey

[Mikelly]

Soooo Lot of talk here about batteries... I've gone thru FOUR... And guess what? It's not the battery...

 

My problem, kinda like a few of yours I'm guessing, is that it's more to do with added electronic gear, degraded wiring. In my case, I started with an Optima red top, which I currently have in the car... Then I went to a Mazda battery from a first gen Miata. It didn't cut it... I swapped to an Odyssey 680... Didn't cut it... And then I went to a LARGE Braille "no weight" battery. None of them could keep up with the added MSD Digigal 6A, the FAST efi ECU, the high output cooling fan, and an alternator that could not keep up.

 

That alternator was a definite issue. We overlooked it and it simply was to small for the added electronics, some faulty wiring, and possibly poorly matched wire thickness per component. It's important not to overlook these things when you plan upgrades. It's also important to know if the components you have are functioning properly.

 

These are 40 year old cars. I'm still sorting my issues, but installing the proper alternator is the first step. And to the guy above who mentioned his failing Redtop, I've had mine for 5 years without a single issue. I've let that thing sit for up to 6 months at a time without charging it and it ALWAYS has held more than 12 volts. Maybe you got a bad one, but I wouldn't assume all OPTIMA batteries are bad.

 

Also, check that you have great grounds... appropriate sized chassis to motor, battery to motor and "other" grounds.

Mike

Edited July 22, 2012 by Mikelly

[redzedturbo]

i run a optima red top give like 248.99 for it but on the bright side my zxt has never failed to start in over 2 years. the only time this battery has died was because my alt went out and i did not even know it! lights were still bright power windows rolled up as normal and i drove it day and night (using headlights) for a week before i started to notice things dimming... even my ms1 let me run till there was only like 5 volts of power but it got me home that night. got optima or nothing! what you gain in weight you will also in piece of mind.