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My First Z Car - 260Z


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Just bought my first Datsun and I'm really happy with it so thought I'd post some photos. I've still got loads to learn about these cars so I'm sure this forum will be a huge help.

 

 

 

1979 Datsun 260Z

 

 

Shes in great condition, only 28480 miles on her when I bought it although its not far of 29k now. She was built in 1978 but only first registered in 1979 and going by the chassis number she was one of the the last to be imported from Japan to the UK. Theres few photos with my Civic in them also, shes a 1991 Civic running a 243hp B20.

 

 

It drives beautifully, its had new bushes all round and with the low miles on the chassis it still feels really tight so its a joy to drive.

 

 

 

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I have real big plans for her involving seam welding, cageing, hugely uprated suspension and brakes and an engine swap, I like the idea of a V10 because I love them but failing that I'd like an RB26DETT.

 

For now though the first mods will be:

 

Paint the brake calipers and drums

Polish up the lips on the wheels

Give the engine bay a good clean

Clean out the carbs

Do something with the rocker cover

Give her a full detail, I've already done the inside but the outside still needs done

 

 

After that lot I'll be fitting a bigger better airdam and a rear spoiler follwed by a good coilover setup with adjustable camber plates welded in as shes definitly too high at the moment. Then I'll have to fit the arch flares before I can fit my new wheels other wise they won't fit.

 

 

 

 

 

Photos

 

Sorry for the amount but I couldn't decide which to put up.

 

 

 

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Beautiful car man. That is the same color as mine, and pretty soon I'm going to have those same wheels too!

 

Those pictures are making me want to take my car to a body shop and get it painted right now, because that car in that color is so beautiful when the paint is perfect. Mine is pretty rough.

 

You should have a fairly easy time getting it to run properly. Most of us start with a basket case. Your car just has a couple of minor flaw it sounds like.

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Thanks for the nice comments guys, glad you like it.

 

Its in pretty good condition although there are a few issues I've found, the petrol tank had some rust so I stripped it back and repainted it today, I also found a small amount of rust (about a 1cm circle on the drivers door inner low down where the paint had somehow lifted a bit and allowed moisture in so I ground that back to bare metal and painted it. It doesn't look as good as it should, but its better than rust and I can make it look better some other time. I've also noticed than in some places underneath its just had underseal spayed onto bare metal which in my experience isn't good enouth, its a bit loose in some places so I'm going to chip it all off, primer it, paint it and then underseal it, the way it should have been done in the first place.

 

 

I spend most of the year working away from home so this is going to be a very slow project.

 

 

 

 

 

Ruesty Bomb - I think you mean RHD? The proper side to drive on, lol

 

wrcbonk - Good advice, I'm so happy with it as it is that I will be leaving it standard for a while as I;m enjoying it enouth as it is, if that changes than I'll start the more extreme mods. I rather like the L series so I'm thinking a better manifold and a triple carb setup might be good calls.

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  • 3 weeks later...

After a proper search for rust I did manage to find some unfortunatly. I found rust on the fuel tank, one of the chassis legs in the engine bay, both rear wheel arches and a little near the radiator. I took them all back to clean metal so hopefully thats an end to it.

 

 

 

Fuel Tank, noticed a few tiny spots of rust, but after removing the paint from those areas I found there were rust spots all over it and ended up stripping the whole thing, I managed to wire brush them all back to cleanish metal, then treated it with Bilt Hamber Deox Gel which did a good job before snading, cleaning and priming it prior to painting. It will do for now but I'll get a new tank at some point.

 

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After:

 

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Bay, got rid of all the rust, one advantage of a black bay is that its easy to match, what I've done will do for now, I'll be getting a full bare metal respray in the bay in the near future.

 

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After:

 

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I also sanded and painted the brake booster, unfortunatly it got some rain drops on it before it had fully dried and it ruined the finish a bit, but again it will do for now, thats not rust behind it btw, just grease.

 

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Polished up the lips on the wheels a bit:

 

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Got to work on the rear wheel arches, any rust I found was ground back to clean metal, sanded, cleaned, primed, painted and then undersealed:

 

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P-side before:

 

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P- side after:

 

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Drivers side before:

 

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During:

 

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After, I also painted the brake drums.

 

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While I will definitly be changing my brake setup for something much better I thought I might aswell smarten up the stock calipers for now, brakes aren't the first thing on my list so the stock ones will be staying for a while yet.

 

Wire brushed and cleaned my caliprs and deck bells ready for painting.

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Its pretty clean in the wheelarches and I didn't find any rust, however to make sure and also make the finish look a lot smarter I'll also strip it back to bare metal for a respray at the same time as I do the bay, I'll also be seam welding around that area anyway.

 

 

 

 

I polished and waxed the front end, I have since finished the car, but didn't get any chance to take photos.

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I drove 1000 miles in just less than 3 weeks and loved every mile of it, unfortunatly the car is now tucked safely away in an Air chamber and I went back to work today. I'll look forward to getting her out next and getting on with some modification.

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What a great find! Good for you. I see a few mods, but overall a very nice Z. Take your time and make good choices. We have some good choices and resources available to us. Paint looks really good so you're already thousands ahead of the game. Personally, I would put different wheels and tires on her. Perhaps Enkei's new Apache II 15x8's http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP1/25-1198

 

Enjoy!!! Kevin

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Now this is an amazing 260z; makes me want one... And nice civic, got any more pics of that to share?

Thanks, got loads of photos of the Civic, hers a few:

 

 

 

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Custom 3" exhaust system

 

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Engine bay currently looks like this, but its due a respray, custom intake piping and I'll be getting my new rocker cover airbrushed like the one I had the B16B.

 

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Heres the current spec list:

 

 

Body and Misc

Resprayed Original Colour – Rio Red

Smoothed off Aerial

Smoothed off Rear Wiper

Smoothed off Rear Badge

Smoothed off Rear Fogs

Smoothed off Bootlock

Fully Undersealed

OEM Mudflaps

Honda Access Rain Visors

EK Throttle Cable

TenzoR short shift gearlever (Dual Bend)

ITR Gear Gaiter

Type R Key

Momo Boss

OMP Steering Wheel

Panasonic Head unit

Alpine Speakers

CG Lock

Custom Airbrushed Rocker cover

Jazz washer Jets

Bonnet lifters

PWJDM Bolts and washers

All other Bolts/washers changed to SS

Wire Tucked Engine Bay

EF9 Headlights (Lightweight Plastic)

Earls Fuel Fittings with Braided Hose and Inline Fuel Filter

Custom Reg Number

 

 

 

Performance

Quaife ATB LSD

Koyo Racing Radiator – Polished Aluminium

Slimline Fan

Odyssey PC680 Racing Battery

Customised PWJDM Holder

PW Magnetic Engine and gearbox oil Bolts

Honda MTF 94 (gearbox)

Silkolene 5W-40 (Engine)

Energy Shifter linkage Bushes

Competition Clutch – Stage 2 Carbon Kevlar clutch

 

 

Performance – Engine – B20 VTEC

B20 Block - Honed (0.5mm overbore)

Balanced B20 Crankshaft

Golden Eagle B20 Crank Girdle

RS Machine 84.5mm Pistons - 11.5:1

Blueprint H-Beam Rods

ACL Bearings

ARP Main Stud kit

ARP Head Studs

ARP 2000 Rod Bolts

Golden Eagle VTEC Conversion kit

OEM Headgasket (DNR modified)

OEM ITR Oil Pump

OEM ITR Water Pump

OEM ITR Timing Belt Kit

Competition Clutch Lightweight Flywheel

Baffled ITR Oil Sump

ITR Oil pickup and windage tray

JDM EK9 N1 Crank Pulley

B16B PR3-3 Head

OEM Honda Stem Seals

Crower Stage 3 cams

Crower Valve springs

Crower titanium retainers

Buddy Club Adjustable Cam gears

Hondata Insulating Intake Manifold Gasket

Edelbrock Victor X Inlet manifold ported to 70mm

OMNI Power 70mm Throttle body

Blox Max-flo 4-2-2-1 (Tri-Y) Header – Heatwrapped

Custom Prospeed 3" Manifold back Exhaust

AEM Hybrid Intake

BPI Velocity Stack & K&N Filter

345cc Injectors

AEM FPR

Rywire OBD0 - OBD1 Conversion Harness with lambda sensor extension

Rywire OBD0 - OBD2 Distributor convertor

OBD2 Dizzy

OBD1 ECU mapped with Neptune

Custom Crankcase breather setup

Precision Oil Catch tanks with breathers

NGK Platinum Plugs

Magnecor KV-85 ignition leads

Custom Earth leads

 

 

Handling

Meister R Coilovers

Tenzo R Front Upper strut brace

Cusco Front Under Brace

Tenzo R Rear upper strut brace

Beaks Rear Lower Tie Bar

Energy Anti-roll bar bushes

New OEM RTA bushes

Energy Poly Strut Rod bushes

Goodyear Eagle F1’s all round

 

 

 

Brakes

ITR Callipers and Carriers

ATR 1†Master cylinder and servo

Goodridge SS Brake Lines

Castrol DOT4. Fluid

EBC 282mm Discs

Hawk HP+ pads

EBC 242mm Discs (Rear)

Ferrodo Pads (Rear)

Edited by EF Ian
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What a great find! Good for you. I see a few mods, but overall a very nice Z. Take your time and make good choices. We have some good choices and resources available to us. Paint looks really good so you're already thousands ahead of the game. Personally, I would put different wheels and tires on her. Perhaps Enkei's new Apache II 15x8's http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/LNP1/25-1198

 

Enjoy!!! Kevin

Thanks. I will take my time with this one, want to get everything spot on, unfortunatly some things will have to come from America which will end up costing me loads in shipping and import tax.

 

 

I rather like the wheels, I reckon they will look even better when shes sitting a bit lower. I have thought about changing them but I think I'll just keep them for a while as the wheels I really want are RS-Watanabe R-Type but I'd need to fit arch flares first.

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I've noticed that it doesn't have an electric fuel pump, I thought late 260Z's came with an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical one, is this correct?

 

If so, should I fit an electrical one aswell?

 

 

 

 

 

 

My fuel tank could od with being changed, so I was thinking of getting a custom one that I could use for the current setup but that I will also be able to use for the new motor, whether it will be a V10

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I've noticed that it doesn't have an electric fuel pump, I thought late 260Z's came with an electric fuel pump in addition to the mechanical one, is this correct?

 

If so, should I fit an electrical one aswell?

 

 

 

 

 

 

My fuel tank could od with being changed, so I was thinking of getting a custom one that I could use for the current setup but that I will also be able to use for the new motor, whether it will be a V10 or an RB26DETT.

 

 

It would have to look as good as the stock tank, fill up from the stock location, hold at least as much fuel, have a decent baffle setup and be suitable for high flow fuel injection.

 

I was thinking of this design:

 

 

http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10310d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank1-jpg

 

 

http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10311d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank2-jpg

 

 

http://zclub.net/forum/attachments/s30-240z-260z-280z-tuning-upgrades/10312d1333833738-fuel-tank-options-tank3-jpg

 

 

 

 

I'm not sure whether to run that design which exactly replaces the stock tank, or to cut out the wheel well and move the bottom up (so you can't see it beneather the car from behing) and make it bigger.

 

 

 

 

I'm also not sure what pump setup to go for. I quite like the idea of an in tank pump setup as it saves mess outside the tank underneath the car and is probably a more simple setup but I could also go for an external pump setup which gives me the option of changing setups easily if I want/need to.

 

I don't want to run a fuel swirl pot idealy, but I'm not sure if thats possible, I assume a 400 - 500hp V10 or RB26 doesn't require the use of a swirl pot so long as the tank pickup is well baffled?

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  • 8 months later...

I'm home for a week after finishing some more training so I got a chance to check out some of my new parts.

 


 

Airdam

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Indicators for the Airdam

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New PCV hose, bonnet adjusters and some new fittings for the inspection panels.

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Carbon Fibre BRE style rear wing, very lightweight and rather nice looking:

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Coilovers, should do a nice job, fully adjustable and the quality looks very good.

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Cut off my stock shock and weld this part on

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Camber plates to weld in, only fitting these to the front for now:

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New fuel filter and thermostat, hood prop rod (will get this chromed) as mine is missing and second hand dome light as my switch is broken, will swap internals to my unit as its cleaner.

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Relay to wire into headlights, should improve brightness and save my switch as at the moment power runs through the stalk switch to the headlights.

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Red stiched gear gaiter, thought mine was a bit tatty:

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Oil and Filter:

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MM Billtet adaptors allow me to run a CV joint setup and get rid of the U-joints:

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Z31T CV driveshafts

 

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Billet alloy lock pulls:

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Got more on the way although mostly now I just need parts for re doing the wiring, paints, ss bolts, etc. Looking to get a custom made alloy fuel tank as I haven't been able to find a decent decond hand tank, I'll get it built with a baffle setup and an in-tank Aeromotive 340lph pump.

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  • 1 month later...

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