thinking about megasquirt

[kaito]

single coil, going high inverted is good. Set up ignition capture to falling edge. Actually I forgot to ask, what code are you running? I assume it was loaded up by diyautotune right? If so there will be a label on the ecu with the code. Could you list it please? different codes have different settings. I can help you set up a good base map if I know the code you are using. And BTW 22 is super lean and 8-13 is super-to-kinda rich. Think of the afr gauge as just the number of air molecules. The larger the number the more air you have. Im sure you know that you need to be richer than at least 14-1 at idle and cruise and even richer in boost for the L. Sorry for the small quarrel with the other guy btw. I couldnt help myself.

[Zmanco]

Remember that an O2 sensor measures unburned oxygen. If there's no combustion, then even a very rich mixture is going to read lean.

[taylor76zharris]

Great info guys. Okay, ive got Ignition capture at falling edge. The code on the back of the ecu is ms2357-c. Thanks Katio, that would help a lot. And dont worry, It happens.

[kaito]

Great info guys. Okay, ive got Ignition capture at falling edge. The code on the back of the ecu is ms2357-c. Thanks Katio, that would help a lot. And dont worry, It happens.

Ok,

The number you gave me is actually the part number for the assembled ecu. It says on the diy site that the bip373 is not included. Did you have them install this or did you install this? If not then what are you using for an ignitor? Also If you connect your ecu to the computer and bring up t/s go to file and open tune. It will brin g up a window that should be your current tune or msq. On the right it will say signature: MSII REV 2.something or 3.something. could you tell me that number? that would be the code you are running.

[taylor76zharris]

Sorry man, just bear with me ill figure it out one of these days haha.

 

Okay, the bib373 was installed at DIY. I havent opend the ecu to check but it was on my receipt from them.

 

The code that i pulled up is signiture: MS2EXTRA SERIAL310

[taylor76zharris]

This just stumps me beyond my wildest dreams. Power is going everywhere it should be, even the coil but still nothing. I went out and tried to start it one day and it tried to but nothing sense then. So i thought mabe a bad ground or lose connection, everything checks out. Could there be interference with the signal to the distributor? Could it be a wrong amount of power to the coil or something like that? I know its hard to help over the internet, atleast for me. Any help is very greatly apperciated!

[NewZed]

I went out and tried to start it one day and it tried to but nothing sense then.

 

This whole page of posts (and more) is about ignition but the statement above suggests that you have a fuel problem. Have you tried starter fluid (Edit - it worked here - http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/108541-l28et-240z-swap-wiring-help/page__pid__1015062#entry1015062)? If you do and it starts and revs, then dies, forget about ignition and focus on injector firing.

Edited August 19, 2012 by NewZed

[kaito]

Oh dude, I totally forgot about you. I'll pm you my email so I can send you a tune. On the ignition troubleshooting, did you pull a plug to test for spark? Also you can hook up a timing light to all the spark plug wires and see if you are getting anything. Sorry if you already tried. The first time I tried this it took me 3 weeks to figure it out and get it to start. You will get it don't worry!

[redzedturbo]

Is there a certain GM coolant sensor i should get, like one that will thread into the stock spot? Or will i have to tap my own?

 

 

ls1 cool sensor threads in to stock location by num 5 cylinder but im running mine from the side of the thermostat housing works good for the last year i run ms1 v3 with stock turbo dizzy. if you have the funds go mega and dont look back! it took me and my brother 2 days to make my harness from scratch and get it to idle. and for god sake change the injector clips when you go ms im glad we did the stock retaining clips are crap. good luck man.

[taylor76zharris]

Sweet, thanks redzedturbo and kaito! As far as the ignition troubleshooting goes i have tested for spark at the plugs and the coil. The timing light trick is a good idea, ill have to try it. Ill pm you as soon as i get home.

 

 

This whole page of posts (and more) is about ignition but the statement above suggests that you have a fuel problem. Have you tried starter fluid (Edit - it worked here - http://forums.hybrid...62#entry1015062)? If you do and it starts and revs, then dies, forget about ignition and focus on injector firing

I think im getting plenty of fuel. I had to fix a few leaks when i first turned the ignition on. Ill double check to make sure. Thanks for the info and link!

[taylor76zharris]

Well, it tried to start again today, just went out and turned the ignition and she tried. Im thinking a ground problem or a settting if off in T/S.

Thanks for all the help

[loy]

Hope you get it started! I haven't had time to finish mine.

[taylor76zharris]

Thanks, i hope so too. Is it possable that my timing is off just enough so that when the coil is firing the spark the rotor isnt facing the point in the distributor cap? Like maybe its firing the spark inbetween the cap points?

[SleeperZ]

I don't think that is likely, unless your distributor is off by more than a gear tooth. It's worth checking.

[78zstyle]

I will like to say, that ever since I went to full engine control (added timing control) I like megasquirt a lot more. So much more than when I build my N/A engine its going to be megasquirted, not carb'd.

[taylor76zharris]

Here are some of my settings. Does all this look like it should or is some stuff off?

please let me know.

 

Engine constants

Required fuel- 6.9

Control algorithm- speed density

Squirts per engine cycle-2

Injector staging- alternating

Engine stroke- 4- stroke

Number of cylinders- 6

Injection port type- port injection

# of injectors- even fire

 

More engine constants/ Secondary load parameters

2nd fuel load- disabled

Multiply map- multiply

Incorporate AFR target- don’t include

Stoichiometric AFR- 14.7

Primary ignition load- speed density

Secondary ignition load- disabled

AFR table load- use primary load algorithm

EAE curve load- use primary load algorithm

 

Injector characteristics

BANK 1

Injector dead time @13.2v(ms)- 1.000

Battery voltage correction (ms/v)- 0.200

PWM current limit (%)- 30

PMW time threshold(ms)- 1.0

Injector PMW period(ms)- 66

BANK 2 (same as bank one)

Tach input/ ignition settings

Spark mode (dizzy, EDIS, wheel)- basic trigger

Trigger angle offset(deg)- 9.00

Angle between main and return- 50.0

Odd fire small angle- 90

GM HEI/DIS options- off

Skip pulses- 3

Ignition input capture- falling edge

Spark output- going high inverted

Number of coils- single coil

Spark A output (D14 preferred)- D14

Cranking setting

Cranking RPM- 230

Flood clear TPS%- 70.0 (above this % no fuel is injectes)

Cranking fuel pulse rate- every event

[softopz]

I just quickly read everything so I am not sure if someone mentioned this but do you have the correct jumpers on the board for the type of ignition system (hall/optical) and VR I dont know if DIYautotune did the mods for you.

 

Since you already made sure that you have power at coil, rpm and fuel.... thats the only thing I can think of or timing> when you installed the 280zxt You were suppose to allign the oil pump>shaft and dizzy.

[Zmanco]

I don't see anything obvious that would prevent it from starting. That said, I would suggest you change Incorporate AFR Target to "include" as that means that in the future, if you change the AFR table, you won't have to retune the VE table.

 

Also, I'd suggest bumping Cranking RPM up to 300 rpm so MS doesn't think the engine has started when it's still cranking.

 

But neither of those should prevent the engine from starting. If you haven't done this already, use a timing light to measure timing while cranking. It should be somewhere around 10 deg advanced (note: confirm what you have this set to on MS). That will confirm two important things: 1) the coil is firing and 2) it's firing at the right time.

Edited September 6, 2012 by Zmanco

[taylor76zharris]

I just quickly read everything so I am not sure if someone mentioned this but do you have the correct jumpers on the board for the type of ignition system (hall/optical) and VR I dont know if DIYautotune did the mods for you.

 

Since you already made sure that you have power at coil, rpm and fuel.... thats the only thing I can think of or timing> when you installed the 280zxt You were suppose to allign the oil pump>shaft and dizzy.

 

Ok im pretty sure i might have messed up on the install of the zxt distributor. If i get the motor at tdc, remove the distributor, and line the shaft and rotor up with cylinder one, the timing should be at zero?

Im not sure if they did those for me, i just sent them an email though.

 

 

If you haven't done this already, use a timing light to measure timing while cranking. It should be somewhere around 10 deg advanced (note: confirm what you have this set to on MS). That will confirm two important things: 1) the coil is firing and 2) it's firing at the right time.

Thanks! very helpful tip. I guess i need to try this first.

[softopz]

Yes, set the motor at TDC compression stroke! then you also have to align the shaft with the oil pump there will be a hole punched with the shaft and its on pump this is key also good idea to put a bit of oil in pump so its not dry pumping. Slide through the hole and bolt the oil pump now your mechanical timing is good! ( i dont know about the chain and the rest of it though) bolt your dizzy from the top. now with your cap off dizzy at tdc you should see the rotor point directly at 1. if you dont something is definatly WRONG. then 153624 check your wiring i cant stress that. pull out fuel injectors clips off so your spraying fuel while diagnosing spark. check with timing light its very KEY it should flash to the timing marks 0-20 depending where your ignition maps is saying. do you have a timing light? if not borrow / buy or steal one. while running you should see about 17-20 advance on idle.