clarkspeed Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 You are really doing some great stuff down there. Thanks for sharing and participating in these forums. I will post this again. PMC your short posts and pictures are worth a 1000 words. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didier Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 funny post around technical considerations ! i have many respect for Peter and also for A thomas, so for me , it's a real dilemme ! both have arguments ! i did'nt want to waste my money ( ) so i made my own idler gear system ! see photos down here! as far as power is concerned, i don't know;;;;;;;, my engine is stil waiting for my restotation to be finished. I'm making a davis craig EWP mount with reverse flow, and i made changes in the water distribution in the head ( without knowing Peter made something like this ) I think the power loss was more a temp issue in the head , leading to reduce ignition advance , and not the Kameari system. A friend here in France, with a Rebello engine has no problem with the K gear. ( just noisy ) congrats to PMC and hs30 , good guys ! don't leave us ! regards Didier excuse my english ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xnke Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 I'm pretty sure that Peter said not to waste your money with the combination of the KEW parts and electric water pump...because they're both very expensive and apparently as long as the Nissan timing guides are still within their effective range, they work just as well...not that the KEW's loose you any power. And it's well documented around here that the electric water pump doesn't gain you anything over a proper stock water pump. So, what *I* took from that is that as long as you keep the chain where it belongs, the KEW tensioner isn't needed...it's when you CAN'T keep the chain where it belongs that the KEW parts would do their job. Alan, you have a lot of good information locked back in your head and on your desk, but I always seem to see you locking down on one ambiguous comment like a terrier on a rat toy. What's the deal, man? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HS30-H Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 I'm pretty sure that Peter said not to waste your money with the combination of the KEW parts and electric water pump...because they're both very expensive and apparently as long as the Nissan timing guides are still within their effective range, they work just as well...not that the KEW's loose you any power. And it's well documented around here that the electric water pump doesn't gain you anything over a proper stock water pump. That's not what he wrote, is it? You might have the nous to read between the lines and pull out the greater truth, but he was linking the KEW Twin Idler ( and the electric water pump ) to a ( big! ) power loss. I can't speak with any authority on the water pump issue, but I do know what I'm talking about when it comes to the Twin Idler and I know it would not normally cause any such power loss. Mixing all this up with a distributor change ( likely the main culprit for the described power loss ) is at best bad writing and at worst an attempt to damn a decent product. I've seen him do the latter before, so guess what I think? Alan, you have a lot of good information locked back in your head and on your desk, but I always seem to see you locking down on one ambiguous comment like a terrier on a rat toy. What's the deal, man? Since you ask me a direct question, I'll try to give you a direct answer: These little seeds of untruth sometimes grow into great forests of lies, so I try to nip them in the bud whenever I see them. Quite often a waste of time, I admit. There's just so much bullsh*t floating around out there about these cars that it's a wonder we don't all drown in it. If anything it's actually getting worse. But as I said before, this shouldn't be about me. The guy is scathing about what I think is a decent product that does the job it was designed to do. It had plenty of mud thrown at it when it was first introduced ( that "...geetar string.." comment was a memorable one ), and very little - if any - of it stuck. PMC doesn't like the Twin Idler, but that seems more to be about 'Not Made Here' syndrome than anything more solid. Fair enough if he doesn't want to use it or doesn't recommend it, but I object to him falsely linking it to a big power loss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Didier excuse my english ! Haha your french you cant help it Nice setup you have there .. any pictures of the backside of that plate ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didier Posted April 9, 2013 Share Posted April 9, 2013 Haha your french you cant help it Nice setup you have there .. any pictures of the backside of that plate ? No more pictures, but it's the same thing that a Kameari : sliding double gears in an aluminium alloy piece , ball bearings ( not spin rollers ) and oil jet on the lower gears. Hope that helps ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gnosez Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 So if I read this right the 3.3L makes 300lbs@5100 and 360HP@7600rpm respectively. Dave emailed a dyno sheet today for my 3.2L NA build- 304.7lbs@5100 and 356.7HP@6800 I have a son working down under and I really like the place but why would I need to go halfway around the world to get the same engine results at a higher price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 26, 2013 Share Posted April 26, 2013 The four most truthful statements in this arguement: These little seeds of untruth sometimes grow into great forests of lies, so I try to nip them in the bud whenever I see them. There's just so much bullsh*t floating around out there about these cars that it's a wonder we don't all drown in it. If anything it's actually getting worse. These are his findings, this is his opinion, end it with that. Make your own decision on whether to use the KEW twin idler setup. It is his own opinion that it isn't necessary. The HybridZ forum has an international reputation for its direct, 'no nonsense' philosophy. It never used to take prisoners or suffer fools gladly, and - in my opinion - has always been the better for that. I've had my knuckles rapped on occasion, and most of the time I probably deserved it and learned something from the experience. This thread hasn't been ruined by an argument over opinions. There's a lot of tech in here. If people get upset about this kind of argument I see at racetracks every time I'm there (I work in the Tech shed) then both sides need tougher hides. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PMC raceengines Posted April 26, 2013 Author Share Posted April 26, 2013 (edited) Just to clear the air . pmc raceengines is not a shop and does not sell anything , its just my site name , I work for a datsun engine shop , yes i dont put its name up very often because i dont feel the need to , we dont sell parts , well sell engines for datsun race cars, i only put up pics and some info for fun and i know people like the pics we all do like to see race engines and some info about them, Do i give all data no ,,,, i dont because i work dam hard to find it and you did not pay for it , Did the kew twin idler cost hp , no did it make hp no was it needed no , if i shaved the head to far and the stock guide were not right yes you can use the kew twin idler , but i dont shave heads i build a piston to sute evey engine i build . The owner of this engine was told by the man that sold him the kew idler that it will make more power because the stock guides cost hp , i have tested this many times and i can say this is BS , the stock cheep parts work fine , Edited April 29, 2013 by johnc Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didier Posted April 27, 2013 Share Posted April 27, 2013 very funny post here , guys." I tell you my story : I have made my own Idler gear kameari system "just for the fun, it cost me 100 €uros ! i'm sure it will do nothing with power increase ! only to be able to say : i did it ! I will put an Australian electric water pump " Davis Craig " Just for the fun, it cost me 150 Euros, i'm sure it will do nothing for power, may be , just expecting a better cooling with mods on my head ( holes above the exhaust ports ) and i'll try reverse flow just to see. I can come back to original mount. I hope for the best advance ignition and good power, but i know it's not only with these mods ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
didier Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 (edited) ITS ALL IN MY HEAD MAN, ALL IN MY HEAD Get a block of aluminum or steel, make the shape of the inspection cover, but add depth to it so it goes into the head by however much. Mill two grooves. Order your idler bearing and sprocket. Make a plate,with a tapped hole so a bolt can thread into it and hold the bearing on. On the other side tap 4 holes for your lock screws, spaced the same amount as your slots. For the bottom make a cover plate where the tensioner went. Again tapped, bolt on idler. On the backside mill a slight groove or channel from the oil hole that was used for the old tensioner. Make it so that it comes up right behind the bearing, then drill a hole in the cover plate so it squirts the oil into the bearing. "easy" Until the bearing breaks off and you destroy a motor. Take a look at my post #73 I show photos of my build, it's very clear .No need for 600$, just about 100 € ! and it's very solid . Edited April 28, 2013 by didier Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
josh817 Posted April 28, 2013 Share Posted April 28, 2013 ITS ALL IN MY HEAD MAN, ALL IN MY HEAD Get a block of aluminum or steel, make the shape of the inspection cover, but add depth to it so it goes into the head by however much. Mill two grooves. Order your idler bearing and sprocket. Make a plate,with a tapped hole so a bolt can thread into it and hold the bearing on. On the other side tap 4 holes for your lock screws, spaced the same amount as your slots. For the bottom make a cover plate where the tensioner went. Again tapped, bolt on idler. On the backside mill a slight groove or channel from the oil hole that was used for the old tensioner. Make it so that it comes up right behind the bearing, then drill a hole in the cover plate so it squirts the oil into the bearing. "easy" Until the bearing breaks off and you destroy a motor. Take a look at my post #73 I show photos of my build, it's very clear .No need for 600$, just about 100 € ! and it's very solid . Oh damn I didn't catch that one. I like your idea better with an adjusting screw! Wanna PM me more pics? Trying to figure out why there is an adjusting screw, but then two lock screws, unless the adjusted isn't physically attached to the top idea (just pushing on the backside of it?) Nice thinking! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Administrators RTz Posted April 29, 2013 Administrators Share Posted April 29, 2013 Enough. Everyone has vented. Empirical data has either been reasonably provided, or it has been openly dismissed as subjective/nulled.PMC, many members appreciate your work and willingness to share. Please keep in mind their best interests, as well as the vendors. Objectivity is key. Please keep this in mind with future posts. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dhunt571 Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Well said sir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted April 29, 2013 Share Posted April 29, 2013 Luckily Ron stepped in. I was going to suspend three or four in this thread for a week. No more posts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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