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Datsun 260Z Turbo S15 6 Speed TechnoToyTuning


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Ok, New news. Trying to get the car to run better my dad was running the car with me watching. I was standing at the left rear wheel and noticed a small flame coming out of the fuel rail/injector area. I had at least one of the injector seals leaking. I guess I couldnt see it sitting in the car seat, or standing right over the car. Removed the fuel rail and injectors and have multiple issues with the seals. So went to local parts store and got some new ones The first thing I am doing this morning is installing them and fixing one of my fans that is rubbing on the radiator.

 

I have been able to run the car at higher rpms but not idle and have throttle response with modulation of the pedal. The car will not stay running at an idle but hold at about 1500 rpm. At least I have found somewhat a smoking gun.I also used a can of CRC Electric contact cleaner. I sprayed all the connections from the ECCS to the AFM to the fuel injectors etc. I did this about 5 times between running the car at different times. I was trying to get some time on the motor to break in the cam. I got about 4 runs at 5 minutes at a time holding the rpm at 2000 to 2500 rpms.

 

Hopefully this fixes the no idle issue! Stay tuned. 

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The new o-rings did not help the car. It did git rid of the snapping that was coming form the intake. I was suppose to get the remanufactered AFM today before noon. The shipper did not mark for Saturday delivery. Being that it is a holiday weekend I have to wait to Tuesday. 

 

Man this is frustrating. I just want my car to run, no I want it to idle and purr like a kitten. Really want it to scream like a lion and purr like a kitten, am I asking to much.

 

I did fix my fan from rubbing and have the thermo switch setup.

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The only "o-ring" that matters is the one that seats in the manifold.  And it seals "vacuum" or intake leaks, not fuel.  The big ring at the top is just a locating and isolating mounting piece.

 

You said you thought you had a timing issue.  Did you measure it, even at 1500 RPM?  That would tell something.  What is it?

 

You saw a small flame at the injector seal area.  Was their popping back through the intake when you saw it?  If you're running lean and/or your timing is off you can get popping back through the intake.  Otherwise, there shouldn't be any flames in the intake manifold.  What is your fuel pressure while this was happening?

 

If you can get it running steady at a fairly low RPM, you should measure timing and fuel pressure, and check for intake leaks with carb spray or starting fluid sprayed around the usual leak areas.  Determine if it's running rich or lean while it's idling (move the AFM vane).  Take some notes on what happens when you give it throttle.  That will give you some numbers that you can use and a "state-of-the-system" to work against for future changes.  Right now you have a random list of numbers and events but not much connection between them.

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Any reason you're going straight to the most expensive/complicated MS? MS2 or even MS1 will be way better than the stock system and be much more affordable to start with, not to mention easier to install and get up and running. Unless you're planning to utilize sequential injection or any of the other fancy things MS3 can do its probably just going to complicate matters for you and end up costing you more money/time. Plus you can always upgrade later since MS3 is a daughter board that plugs onto the main board.

 

In my opinion, the latest and greatest is not always the best choice. Look at the features each offers and decide from there what you really need. The stock FI has stymied you so far, what happens when you have problems with a system that is 10 fold more complicated?

 

Personally MS1 does almost everything I need and I have been very pleased with it, I may upgrade in the future because I want to play with some of the features, but I certainly don't need to in order to reach my goals.

 

Good luck with whichever road you decide on.

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But before all of that, get the car to idle and run somewhat decently before switching to a standalone. Otherwise you'll be chasing all kinds of ghosts because you won't know if your problems are with ecm settings or a mechanical issue with the engine itself.

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I am trying, hopefully the new afm and going to put a new chts in as well. 

 

I took the fpr apart to check. It is intact no signs of gas getting past the diaphrams. I will pull the vacuum line next time I try starting the car to see if any fuel is getting past the diaphram.

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Ok, I will check the timing next time i run it. I was hoping that the computer would

make up the difference if i was close. Again this is my first hands on for something like this. I had the cam 1 tooth off so it could be anything. That was verified by a datsun mechanic, he also pulled the oil pump to make sure I had the gear installed correctly. He was pushing the aftermarket engine management systems( he has used JimWolf). He just doesnt want me to keep chasing issues that are from 30 year old parts. 

 

Like you said if I can't make a true plug and play work what am I going to do with something custom built with a lot of things outside of my experience.  I am going to get this to work even if its replacing each part one at a time till it is resolved.

 

From the initial start chasing these issues it has been easier and easier to start. It also seems to be running better the more i run it. Another member has said that it will take a while for it to come around, because of the time these parts have sat. 

 

Question should I start it again with what I have and check the timing, if correct then keep running it to see if it comes around more? Or wait for the new AFM and CHTS?

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FINALLY<<< FINALLY got it to run, rev and idle...

 

Really stupid! I had no plug in the PCV hole. The N42 intake has it on the bottom just above the turbo.... Dang Plugged that and it fired right up. I have to mess with the idle screw. I have the 240sx throttle body and its upside down so I will screw that out a little and hold some rpm. It is all the way flush with stop. I could hold my foot at like 500 rpm and it would idle.

 

Here is a few small clips of start up and then had an issue................ITS KINDA LOUD so turn your volume down.

 

http://vid158.photobucket.com/albums/t85/melbellwood1/Tooquick260z/20130525_190752_zps61d3da73.mp4

 

Yes first signs of smoke..... more on that to come!

 

http://vid158.photobucket.com/albums/t85/melbellwood1/Tooquick260z/20130527_120834_zps7c6c607b.mp4

 

Its alive,, wahoo!

 

 

 

So my dad was sure that the clutch, flywheel combo I have needed the tall throw out bearing collar. So he talked me into buying a new one and I took the short one that Jacob sent with the tranny and use the tall one. Well the clutch was engaged and would not allow the pressure plate release. So I pulled the tranny tonight and switched. Here is a picture of the three I have. I am using the shortest one with a new bearing.

 

20130525_214659_zps6a27918d.jpg

 

 

The other issue I am having is the oil coming thru the turbo. It does not look like its gonna stop. I am going to put the tranny back in and make sure that everything works,,,,,,,,,all gears, rear diff, brakes, idles  etc. Then I will pull the turbo and have it rebuilt or ..... Maybe upgrade?

Edited by tooquick260
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Yeah the clutch works and the tranny works... 

 

Now onto putting the wiring away. I did as much as I could, finished the passenger side, just need a 1 3/4" hole saw to run the ECCS wires thru the fire wall.

20130527_162348_zps22ea4ce0.jpg20130527_162402_zpsed573cc0.jpg

 

Now still have to fix the turbo oil leak. Need a restrictor inline to the turbo. Also need exhaust, once oil leak is fixed will get the pipiing done. Then get an alignment and drive it like I stole it.

Edited by tooquick260
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Well pulling the turbo off to get the seal replaced. Still getting oil and smoke coming out the tail pipe.

 

20130529_165902_zpse1559c78.jpg

 

Here is a pic of the interior. I used one of my dad's old round ball shift knobs. Looking for a new one. I have the stock leather shifter boot sitting there and will see about getting it to fit better. The S15 shifter is really fat at the bottom which makes it hard to tie the leather straps. Maybe I can sweet talk mom into making me a new one

Edited by tooquick260
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Any reason you're going straight to the most expensive/complicated MS? MS2 or even MS1 will be way better than the stock system and be much more affordable to start with, not to mention easier to install and get up and running. Unless you're planning to utilize sequential injection or any of the other fancy things MS3 can do its probably just going to complicate matters for you and end up costing you more money/time. Plus you can always upgrade later since MS3 is a daughter board that plugs onto the main board.

 

In my opinion, the latest and greatest is not always the best choice. Look at the features each offers and decide from there what you really need. The stock FI has stymied you so far, what happens when you have problems with a system that is 10 fold more complicated?

 

Personally MS1 does almost everything I need and I have been very pleased with it, I may upgrade in the future because I want to play with some of the features, but I certainly don't need to in order to reach my goals.

 

Good luck with whichever road you decide on.

MS3 isn't any more complicated than MS 1 or 2. It does have a lot of nice features and requires less modification as the extra features are already built in. You're right though - figure out what you need because buying features you won't use is a waste of money. Personally I like the flexibility of a more comprehensive system, USB, SD card, etc and I always build my own kits so that keeps the price down a fair amount. Aftermarket is really the way to go since you'll be able to tune all your mods, etc.

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If you do go with MS, I would suggest MSII since it will cost less, and you probably won't use all the features of MSIII anyway. They sell a pretty nice carb to efi kit for $600 that has everything you listed and a few more things. 

 

I would also suggest building your own kit to keep costs down. If you can run wires you can build a MS board(or so I'm told)

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I'm planning my build around

 

Megasquirt II pcb V3.0

 

This will allow MS to directly fire the coil, have a rev limiter, and when coupled with the relay board, the engine bay wiring is really quite simple.

 

but as everyone has mentioned before, just figure out what you want the car to do first, and buy once.

 

I've converted my car from carbs to fuel injection, and now from fuel injection to adding forced induction. While the process has taught me a plethora of knowledge in regards to these cars, it sure did take what seemed to be an unnecessarily long time to get this far. Haha,

 

Just really plan ahead.

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Dang it,,,,

 

 

Got the turbo rebuilt and bolted back in. Started it up and backed it out the garage drove around the block twice, came back picked my dad up and it died. Blew a fusible link. Tried diagnosing and it blew 3 more. Also, a 20a fuse under dash blew. It is for the tail light.

 

I am frustrated again. I drove this car for 20 minutes 3 different times before I took the turbo off. All i did was bolt it back in! 

 

I will dive into it again tomorrow.

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Took the car out with mom. Her 3 rd ride in the car 2 when it was n/a. She is a teacher and had a baby snapping turtle that a student had brought into the class. She wanted to get rid of it. So, we rode over to the other neighborhood to dump it in the pond. She called it "Squirt" something about its habits in class, it was as big has a half dollar. She is not suppose to have this in the class room.

 

http://vid158.photobucket.com/albums/t85/melbellwood1/Tooquick260z/20130610_131521_zps1a49a481.mp4

 

here is a shot of the car.

 

IMG_7134_zps701f7267.jpg

Edited by tooquick260
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