m1ghtymaxXx Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 I am sorry mightyMax, but I am just a fellow clueless traveler on the road to ruin. I am not an automotive engineer-at best I am just a copy cat. Im not really qualified to give advice. The only advice I know is to only change one variable at a time. My brakes worked fine until they disintegrated. I don't really need better stopping, I just need them to be as bullet proof and durable as possible. If you have a L6 you don't need as much brakes as a V8, but 2 hours of race level driving is gonna be rough on them. Can you stop in the pits every now and then and check pad wear? Could you slap together some sort of ducting for cooling? Can you bring some spare rotors and pads? And some mechanics gloves cause the hardware will be hot. You may have to brake earlier and less aggressively if you want the car to hold up... Ask the ITS Enduring guys for advice. There's nothing forcing you to stay on the track any for any extended periods of time. The course is set up as a circuit, so you do a lap and then head to the "pits" for as long as you'd like before lining up at the start again where cars are released at 30 second intervals. I'll be taking the school in the Z since my driver already has his rally license, however another friend is co-driving with another buddy who has his license, so we'll pair up and take our own street machines. Since I've already dragged this thread far off topic (my apologies), figured I'd point out this is for the Targa Newfoundland Rally, and you can keep track of our Evo III build progress at www.facebook.com/targaevo80 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted June 6, 2013 Share Posted June 6, 2013 You might check out Coffey's dual master conversion kit. IIRC it gets rid of the booster and allows you to bolt dual masters straight in. Then you could use a real balance bar instead of a prop valve. Not sure if he's still doing them, but that was a really slick solution. I saw you had R4S pads on your car at the track. Not a good choice for stock calipers. I punched a hole in the pad at a track day. The lining got so hot it left the pad and then the caliper piston pushed straight through like a hole punch. You'd probably be OK with R4 pads on stock calipers, if you could keep the fluid from boiling, that will be your next hassle if you choose to stay with stock. Fluid boiling is fun, as you can lose the brakes all at once with no warning. Going bigger just allows for a larger heat sink and you can run harder without having to worry about all this crap. With your car it's a good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
afbrian13 Posted June 8, 2013 Share Posted June 8, 2013 I can tell you I ran manual brakes on the street for a couple years. Mostly because my my booster went out so i just capped the vacuum line. Stock brakes it worked just fine. Very solid pedal and you can feel everything. The brakes still lock if you want to, and the right foot anti-lock is pretty easy to do. I liked the feel of manual everything driving an old sports car. Seems "right" Careful the first drive after you run a booster again though! It feels a bit sensitive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jnewby Posted June 15, 2013 Share Posted June 15, 2013 I am running a 15/16 master cylinder with no booster, stock front and 280zx disk in the rear. pedal effort is increased, but as said before it feels right, it matches not having power steering. Brakes are much more predictable and provide better feedback, you can still lock them up but it is very hard with 245s all around. I am running a V8, stock pivot point, stock mount hole, and a shortened rod out of the old brake booster. It has worked flawlessly for a street setup. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 15, 2013 Author Share Posted June 15, 2013 Thanks jnewby! Especially for describing your setup so well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
m1ghtymaxXx Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I can tell you I ran manual brakes on the street for a couple years. Mostly because my my booster went out so i just capped the vacuum line. Stock brakes it worked just fine. Very solid pedal and you can feel everything. The brakes still lock if you want to, and the right foot anti-lock is pretty easy to do. I liked the feel of manual everything driving an old sports car. Seems "right" Careful the first drive after you run a booster again though! It feels a bit sensitive! This is interesting. I'm wondering if this could work as an interim solution to my brake modulation issues at autocross (combination of 1" MC, stock brakes and grabby pads (HP+). Had another autocross event yesterday, and though I seemed to be better at brake modulation (not sure if I'm getting used to it, or the warmer weather got along better with the R-comps), but I'm still having a hard time not locking up the brakes after switching from unknown stock replacements to the Hawks. I don want to keep the Hawks for a bit more heat capacity. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smoorenc Posted June 17, 2013 Share Posted June 17, 2013 I have John's Dual Master Cylinder setup with Arizona Z's 4 caliper wilwoods all the way around and no brake booster. I currently have (two) 3/4" Tilton Masters on it. We took it out for the first real drive the other day with the LS1. It took gorilla legs to stop it! It stops, but you had to REALLY push REALLY hard. I talked to both John and Dave about my set up and I was told to go to (two) 5/8" (Dave) or 11/16" (John) master cylinders. So back to the drawing board... On a side note, WOW!! The V8 is so nice!!!! Sorry, still smiling. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted June 18, 2013 Author Share Posted June 18, 2013 'Bout damn time you got that car in the road'. Congrats. Please report on how the smaller MC changes required pedal effort. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeathByNissan55 Posted July 10, 2023 Share Posted July 10, 2023 Not sure if someone mentioned this yet, but I plan to do this p/n from chasebays. Its the one for Toyota Supra/SC300/Soarer/IS300/Datsun 280z. sku: CB-DBBE-MK Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stony Posted March 6 Share Posted March 6 Is that chase bays master a direct bolt in? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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