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DeathByNissan55

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Everything posted by DeathByNissan55

  1. DeathByNissan55
    Not sure if someone mentioned this yet, but I plan to do this p/n from chasebays. Its the one for Toyota Supra/SC300/Soarer/IS300/Datsun 280z. sku: CB-DBBE-MK Hope that helps
  2. DeathByNissan55
    Now this is the level of discussion I like to see.
  3. DeathByNissan55
    What's pricing going to look like and and what hubs/struts are you using, and what brakes?
  4. DeathByNissan55
    Well F......if youre giving up on the Z are you still going to be able to make this kit. I have someone I can put you in contact with if you don't want your design to go to waste, he might even be willing to buy it from you, I don't know as I can't speak for him. But I know he's a smart engineer and I believe his products speak for itself. Hes actually the owner of Apex Engineered. Let me know on Facebook if you're interested. Otherwise I know of another guy on here that is taking a different a approach but still interesting that might benefit from what you've put together so far. Just let me know. By the way, my car hasn't been together for longer than that lol don't use that as an excuse. You just gotta pull the trigger and throw some money and time at it.
  5. DeathByNissan55
    Just checking in Spitz, I'm contemplating picking up this cheap welded R200 diff to use in the meantime, want to know how far away you are from making a complete kit. Just wanna know if I should save my money if you're close. Please let me know,
  6. DeathByNissan55
    Hey Spitz, Just watched Motor Trend's Roadkill Extra that went up 21hrs ago on the Rotsun and they said they broke the inner stub and were thinking about doing IRS swap. Maybe reach out to David Freiburger with Roadkill and they can help with some of the cost? Just an idea.
  7. DeathByNissan55
    You should prolly delete that response because I didn't post any specifics and my point is still applicable and on topic. There are usually 2 sides to every story so I'm not saying you're wrong, just telling him he needs to be careful.
  8. DeathByNissan55
    It was a couple days ago, i dont remember anymore, it was a guy complaining about that he shared his design with someone and they ended up copying it but changing like 1 thing and selling it. the guy had the gall to promote the stolen IP in one of the original guy's posts.....just be careful man. Make sure all the shops you go to aren't like specialty Z because they might just go out and take it from you. You've done some real good work on this and it makes me super happy to hear you're working with an engineer on this (EVEN THOUGH I OFFERED TO HELP TOO ) So just make sure to protect your work. Keep it up and looking forward to what the final bit is. Besides me, i know there is at least 1 other guy 100% interested in your kit...I just sincerely hope I can afford it haha
  9. DeathByNissan55
    Richard saw this but did you Travis? Figures you want to install it after I get you all hyped up about it! hahaha
  10. DeathByNissan55
    Hey Spitz, be careful who you share the designs with too, someone just got burned on something they came up with on one of the datsun facebook pages. Hoping for 2018 front mount updates soon lol not like 2018 just started or anything....i swear i'm not eager haha
  11. DeathByNissan55
    I appreciate these lil updates, even if nothing substantial happens, just to know your heads still in it and it's not dying.
  12. DeathByNissan55
    I'm sure you already thought of this spitz, but make sure to weigh everything, one of the good marketing points for yours will be if lighter or very close to the weight of the zcar one. What do you plan on using for cover bolts through this plate? Bolts will be in double shear which if i remember my engineering school at all, is preferable. However, I still don't see how this will stay sealed. The first blast off the line won't the bead of RTV touching the smooth surface of the sandwiched plate just tear apart - allowing fluid to leak through (granted it won't be a lot because it shouldnt be under any major pressure ever, but still will leak? Or am I just overthinking it and RTV will be able to handle the stretch) And my apologies again, but did you already show your plans for the front mount? For this plate to work, the front mount will have to be bullet proof, correct?
  13. DeathByNissan55
    So does anyone still make the JCR body kits for at least the 280z's? Or a somewhat close copy that needs some massaging to fit?
  14. DeathByNissan55
    LOLOLOL you changed machine shops and they already turned something around? Thats ridiculous. I'll remember that for TeamZMotorsports. Keep up the good work!
  15. DeathByNissan55
    PM'd you Spitz
  16. DeathByNissan55
    I understand your wanting to get away from using Z31 joints, but are the 930 joints really that affordable? I believe the weak point of stock 930 joints are the cages, so if you upgrade those, use explorer inner CV mounts and explorer axle shafts cut to correct length (resplined for 930 joints on inner and whatever widely available nissan joint you use for the outer/whatever hub you're using), wouldnt that be the cheapest route while still maintaining high torque capability? Please anyone add their experiences as it sounds like spits has the diff mount part of it under control.
  17. DeathByNissan55
    spitsnaugle - when you do have the time, could you give an overview of what you plan to provide in this kit, along with a list of items you plan on keeping standardized - like bushings, nuts, bolts, etc. Also, have you come up with a plan for axles yet, so far the cheapest sounds like to use the explorer axles, have them cut down, then resplined for z31 outer joints (may be wrong about the specifics on that, just trying to give an example). Would love to hear some ideas. I dont remember if I said this anywhere but I'm very interested in coming up or helping with a design that will make it nice and cheap and easy for S30 people to get this done....and, ya know, to be able to handle lots o torque.
  18. DeathByNissan55
    How would this compare with the 8.8 from 1993 Lincoln Mark VIII, I know 89-97 will work, but I mean is the differential housing the only thing you're using from the host vehicle? And just for background, I wanted to do this in a 77 280z that I'm in the process of LS/T56 swapping. I was planning on having a drive shaft made at a local axle/shaft shop to mate to my T56. Interested to see where this is going to go.
  19. DeathByNissan55
    You can order the cover/padding for it, just dont have the money for it right now.
  20. DeathByNissan55
    Good news kinda, found a deal on these seats and are much more affordable than fancy touring seats: https://www.kirkeyracing.com/product/10/20900/SEAT-ALUMINUM-21-ECONOMY-20-LAYBACK-BIG-BOY Found a guy local that is a distributor that can get me this for 180$ shipped and another 80 for seat cover/padding shipped. Not adjustable or heated, but it supports a 6pt harness and certified and its the biggest one I could find. Once my guy confirms he can fit it, I'm going to buy it and I'll let you know how I fit in it. Probably going to flip the trans tunnel hump around, hopefully not going to interfere with new driveshaft for LS swap.
  21. DeathByNissan55
    FIGURED IT OUT, SUPER SIMPLE. To pull horn pad off the steering wheel while on car, disconnect negative terminal of battery, push horn in and and twist counter-clockwise (may require some jiggling) - should just pull off after. Once you have pad off, remove the locking mounting plate's 3 phillips screws, then lightly push small screwdriver through the only exposed hole. This will push directly on the Z emblem so be very careful. Ease of removal depends on how much the glue has broken down under the emblem.
  22. DeathByNissan55
    Is there a way to remove the center Z emblem from the horn pad nicely? I want to use it on my new Nardi, but I dont wanna ruin the wheel just to get the Z. I know how to remove horn pad from steering wheel, but after that I dont know if it the pad disassembles any further. Let me know asap, having conductor ring made to work with older wooden Nardi so that I can still have horn.
  23. DeathByNissan55
    Ok emergency, The guy doing the body work and cage on my 280z said I have to get a seat this week or else he's gonna push it outside (my car has no paint on it and its not exactly dry weather right now). Please help, anyone in southern Wisconsin or northern Illinois that have bigger seats or are bigger people. I also need people to tell me, specifically related to late model 280z, what are the best reference points to measure from? I imagine the hump on the driver side of the trans tunnel, up until the edge of floor pan (or in my case, the angled side impact crash bar which sits inside the edge of the floor pan. Lastly, is it safe to cut out the seat mounts off the floor pans and mount seats directly to the floor? or will that weaken chassis? Keep in mind I have an 8 point roll cage, new frame rails are being welded in, and I'm triangulating the engine bay from strut towers to near the hood latch area of firewall, tie bars between both sets of strut towers. Let me know asap, if I dont go bucket, or foam custom fit, or combo of both, i'm prolly gonna get a Sparco R100 but not sure yet. Looking to stay under 500$/seat after tax and shipping to 53221, and looking for ones that have seat heaters as an option (obviously doesn't apply to buckets)
  24. DeathByNissan55
    @Seattlejester, Which model are you talking about with the anti sub belts? I dont know why but I'm having a lot of trouble navigating their site. Link for the 4 point anti sub setup or for 6 pt.
  25. DeathByNissan55
    If it makes it any easier for people to find seats, I believe the seats I'm talking about are called "Touring Seats". Also I'm planning on running 5 or 6 point harness. So far the R100 is looking the most promising provided those brackets are done like Savage mentioned. I'd love to just use stock S2000 seats. Why can't you use harnesses with them? The picture makes it look like they'll work?
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