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Aluminum radiator install


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Hey all,

 

I picked up a champion 3 core for my 1973 240z and I want to install it. The bits for my original radiator are looong gone. Is this thing supposed to have some rubber in between it and the chassis? Anyone have a pic or two of how its supposed to mount and with what? If its just metal to metal that's cool but it seems like its bad practice.

 

Thanks.

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With the aluminum radiators you want to have some type of padding and room for some movement between the chassis and the radiator. I have 4 rubber washers sandwiching all the contact points.

 

The stock radiator was steel with a bronze core (or something similar to that) and could handle the chassis flex, if you hard mount the aluminum one it is going to crack somewhere.

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My issue is that I no longer have any of the original equipment. The car has been disassembled for over three years.

Mine had all the mounting holes as in the old unit, all lined up OK . IMO if the one you order is for the year Z, it should install with no problem . Let the experts on the site chime in  :icon12:

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This is how I mounted my 26"x19" aluminum radiator in my 77 280Z:
 
 I had some 1" Aluminum Angle welded to the tanks and used some rubber sandwich isolators (McMaster-Carr #9213K63) to bolt them to the front support.  I was able to reuse stock bolt holes on the front support.   I also bent and welded a cradle to support the bottom of the radiator out of  Aluminum.  I put santoprene (McMaster-Carr # 86215K56) strips in the cradle to isolate the cradle from the core of the radiator.
 
Here's a model of the radiator mount assembly.

Radiator Mount Assem Rear

Radiator Mount Assem Front

 
Here's the cradle.

Bent Lower Radiator

Flat Lower Radiator

 

I initially intended to bend the cradle from one piece as the model shows but found it easier to stitch weld the 1" front and back lips instead.

 

The sandwich isolators puts a 5/8" gap that between the radiator and the front support that should be filled. 

 

This is in my project car with an 89 mustang 5.0.  With everything installed i have about 1.5-2.0 inches between my radiator fan motor (Ford Taurus 2 speed) and the engine pulleys.

 

 

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Not to sabotage the OP, but since the topic is on aluminum radiator install. My 72 has a front towers strut brace , the sub frame rail is extended and also has a brace on the rear strut towers + roll bar. I believe that flex on my car is at a minimum , so I ask the gurus  , is the bare install  OK  :icon5:

Edited by PLATA
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I believe the OP has his answer, stock radiator was directly mounted. When switching to aluminum you should soft mount or add something to dampen the contact. 

 

Plata: it sounds like your setup is pretty rigid, but I don't see any harm from using a bit of rubber between the chassis and the radiator. Is there any benefit to not using it? If it was steel I can see it adding a little rigidity, and not using the washers and rubber would be a slight weight savings, but other than that I think the 3-4$ it costs for the washers/pieces of rubber is well worth it.

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  • 2 weeks later...

They fit, they are cheap, the brass peacock for draining makes it really easy to service, the built in oil cooler is kind of cool. 

 

I would suggest a shroud though, as mine doesn't seem to do so well in traffic. Some people complain of pinhole leaks which are easily patched with some JB weld, mine hasn't had any problems on that front. If you are going for an upgrade looking up the increased efficiency threads might be a good idea, I'm definitely going to apply those after my big scare.

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I actually used to work for Champion and still talk to the owners regularly. Last I checked, they were using the same manufacturing plant as Mishimoto, so the quality should be comparable with the price setting them apart. I ran a 3row with my Rebello 3.1 for a long time before I took my car apart without any concerns. I have their 4 row to replace it with, now, simply cause it's bigger and nicer. I'm curious as to where these pin holes are occurring or any other feedback you guys might have. I can relay it on to the owners so they can eliminate the problems. 

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Looks like cygnusx1 had problems with that issue.

 

I would imagine it would show up on the end tank welds if anywhere. Mine did arrive a little scuffed with a few dinged fins, but nothing to write home about.

 

I just ordered a fan shroud independently after my near overheat, and they were supremely friendly and easy to work with.

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  • 1 month later...

20130707_140656.jpg

 

These Grommets from Sears worked perfectly.

 

 

How did these hold up? Have they torn any over time?  Also for those using the isolation mounts from McMaster Carr, what did you put in the 5/8" gap between the radiator and core support to keep the air from going around it?

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xonix_digital install the grommets back in early July so hopefully he isn't having problems with them already.

 

I used the isolation mounts; as a stop gap I plan to use some foil tape and then eventually maybe use some aluminum angle to fill the gap.  My car is going to be on blocks for a while longer so filling the gap isn't too high on my priority list.

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  • 1 year later...

Bringing this one back from the dead.

 

I picked up a RB25det plus mishimoto intercooler and PRC radiator from a fellow enthusiast that had to scrap his project. Meaning I did limited research on the PRC just to understand that it was a quality option. I have limited resources when it comes to custom fabrication. I have searched here and google extensively trying to find out how to mount the radiator. The only thing I have found is a reference in this thread by Rival5 to custom fab. Is anyone aware of a bolt-up scenario for the PRC rad? Any other options?

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