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Ms3x install


madkaw

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Hi Steve,

 

I was wondering if you were able to try the GM IAC valve instead of the Jeep one?  Any feedback?

 

Originally I was planning to keep the Nissan's AAR valve due to its simplicity (heats up closing up) with a microsquirt, but I was never happy with its unpredictable behavior (especially when it is cold here in WI). I got the IAC stepper adapter module which EFI Source sells to go with a Jeep I6 4L IAC/ diyautotune's control body (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-4-0l-iac-valve/) and saw your post about switching over to a GM valve lol.

 

I have a n/a '76 280z, no a/c, so the IAC is going to be used in an open loop, temperature controlled mode, for warm-ups only.

 

Thanks!

Den

 

PS Do you still have your N42 intake?

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On 7/4/2024 at 2:12 PM, darom said:

Hi Steve,

 

I was wondering if you were able to try the GM IAC valve instead of the Jeep one?  Any feedback?

 

Originally I was planning to keep the Nissan's AAR valve due to its simplicity (heats up closing up) with a microsquirt, but I was never happy with its unpredictable behavior (especially when it is cold here in WI). I got the IAC stepper adapter module which EFI Source sells to go with a Jeep I6 4L IAC/ diyautotune's control body (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-4-0l-iac-valve/) and saw your post about switching over to a GM valve lol.

 

I have a n/a '76 280z, no a/c, so the IAC is going to be used in an open loop, temperature controlled mode, for warm-ups only.

 

Thanks!

Den

 

PS Do you still have your N42 intake?

 

I had that same block on a jeep stepper. Worked quite well to be honest.

 

I moved to the GM valve to clean up the engine bay more and because the protunerz throttle has the provision for it. 

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On 7/4/2024 at 4:12 PM, darom said:

Hi Steve,

 

I was wondering if you were able to try the GM IAC valve instead of the Jeep one?  Any feedback?

 

Originally I was planning to keep the Nissan's AAR valve due to its simplicity (heats up closing up) with a microsquirt, but I was never happy with its unpredictable behavior (especially when it is cold here in WI). I got the IAC stepper adapter module which EFI Source sells to go with a Jeep I6 4L IAC/ diyautotune's control body (https://www.diyautotune.com/product/custom-idle-air-control-body-for-use-with-jeep-4-0l-iac-valve/) and saw your post about switching over to a GM valve lol.

 

I have a n/a '76 280z, no a/c, so the IAC is going to be used in an open loop, temperature controlled mode, for warm-ups only.

 

Thanks!

Den

 

PS Do you still have your N42 intake?

I have switched to a GM valve . It seems to be doing well . I have to keep the valve powered on all the time but it is predictable that way . 

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So I’ve been having issues with my dual widebands not reading the same most of the time . My 1-3 cylinders were erratic and I could tell by the way it was running that it was more than just an erratic reading .

I eliminated all exhaust and air leaks - which I did have a vacuum leak on #1 runner because the Protunerz flange is warped . I did have some pin hole leaks around my collector - got that fixed . Swapped 1-3 injectors with 4-6 . Problem didn’t follow .

Then I changed the O2 sensor - still no luck .

Finally swapped in a new wideband controller and issue was resolved .

This did NOT fix the fact that 1-3 wideband shows lean conditions under high vacuum MAP . Unless I trim out(fatten) the injectors in 1-3 the MS doesn’t seem able to reign in this condition . Under load the cylinders all sync up , but from 65 KPA ( big cam) on down I have to add fuel . Then the MS seems to keep up . 
I give the ego control 20% authority but it seems to do better with injector trim added. 
I have run 3 different “log” intakes and they all act the same under high vacuum . 
So few have my set up that there’s no one to compare with . 

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I'm not surprised 1-3 are light with how the Protunerz manifold is designed. That short side radius is too tight for great distribution. It would be interesting to see how the balance was with the new Milkfab intake. If you lived closer I'd be willing to let you put mine on for testing. 

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  • 3 weeks later...

Hi @madkaw , a few questions on your install.

 

1.

I went through your posts (thanks for posting your progress, very educational) and you mentioned that your MAP sensor had been hosed due to excessive oil inside. You are running the hose from your valve cover breather to pre-throttle position like a stock Datsun design. I assume you kept your stock crank case to the intake PCV. You wanted to attach an oil catch can to that hose? Did you end up doing it and if you did, can you share some pictures? Have you noticed any more oil accumulation inside your protunerz intake/throttle area?

 

2.

Any issues with the headers' heat affecting the intake/overall under the hood temperatures? Some guys use reflective sticky tape at the bottom of their intakes (one guys claims a 10F drop, not sure how effective this is going to be).  Have you considered installing a heat shield similar to the stock Datsun one?

 

Thanks!

 

 

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The issue with the MAP sensor was that it was integrated into the ECU and the ECU was mounted in the cabin low on the tunnel . This effectively was down hill from the engine and any condensation rolled down into the MAP sensor . My MAP sensor is now separate and mounted on the firewall above the motor . 
Really haven’t had any “heat soak” issues . The Protunerz intake is angled up and clears the header runners well . All other intakes I’ve used I have used heat shield tape on the lower half of the runners and plenum . 

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Well I have this fancy Moroso oil catch can between the crank case and the PCV . I haven’t seen much in it honestly - so maybe a good thing . THOUGH- I have taken off my intake to find oil residue sitting in the runners  near the head - so not sure what that’s about.

Just under the air intake tube attached to the inner fender 
image.jpeg.11755cf2960648d779b233a764add7cf.jpeg

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  • 4 weeks later...

I drove my car to Woodward Dream Cruise this weekend . First time I’ve driven strictly highway miles and was blown away with my MPG . I shoot for an AFR of 15.5 at light cruise . I now have a Tremec T5 with a .63 OD so at 75-80 mph I am turning 2600-2800. Also have a 3.9 diff .

I’ve been averaging 20 ish around town but I managed 35 mpg highway !!!!!

Thats with a 3.2 with a 535 lift cam . I verified this twice . I actually thought my fuel gauge was malfunctioning but the math at the pump equaled 35 . 
Love the L !

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