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The Tire Myth?


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I am currently seeking rims. I want to have at least a 255w tire in the rear, possible 275...

 

I am swapping an RB25 into my datsun now and the rims and rubber are junk, rims are rusted and missing chunks, and all tires are dryrot and broken apart (wooden find car) we have finished up welding all the floors in, and need to be ready to move the car down the road and the more I research tires/rims combos I get more and more mixed answers...

 

I plan to run KYB struts with Tokico Springs and flares.

 

the searching I have found over the past few days was this - "You can fit 17x9 with -13 offset on front/ and 17x9.5 w/-19 offset on rear"-

 

Is this true, or is this false?

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You want to run KYB's with tokico's? I believe thats a no no. With an rb25 swap too? hmm

 

Yes, you can run those size rims. You are going to have to cut you front fenders and rear quarters though, which maybe you already plan on doing. They make the rota RBR's in the exact size you want.

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What body is this? s30 or s130? For an s30 you can pull those sizes of with regular flares, for a ZX you can fit that under stock metal. 

 

And you should look into better suspension asap. It's going to be too soft and those springs could potentially blow out your shocks. 

Edited by BluDestiny
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There are people on this forum who have run KYB's and Tokico springs  for street use for years with no problems.  I think that the rumor comes from the warning literature that KYB includes with the shocks, that says do not use with lowering springs.  Boiler plate, do not use in a non-stock configuration type warning. 

 

I've had KYB's and a lower ride for about a year and a half on a street car.  Tokico springs in the back, cut stock springs in the front.  It rides the same, nice and firm, as when I installed them.

 

That's on a 76 280Z.

Edited by NewZed
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Well, thanks for the advice on suspension guys. and the body is an S30 260Z. I dont really want to spend almost 900 on rims alone but also dont know how I feel about rotas, seen lots of pictures of them breaking.

 

I found some 16x9 XXR 531 wheels and some 255/50/16 I may go with that combo.

 

But on the other note for the suspension, what you guys thinking? Im not a fan of the ride that coilovers give

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Word of caution, you are dangerously getting close to being tossed in the shed, given how often questions related to wheel fitment are asked.

 

XXR is a knockoff of rota, therefore your reservations don't make a lot of sense. In fact the statement that a cheap wheel that is prone to breaking, costing too much doesn't make a lot of sense. According to that statement you should be willing to shell out more. If 900 is too much for you, racing lab has them for 860, and I think there was a group buy on here for a little less than that.

 

Offset is very important, it determines where the wheel sits in relation to the mounting face/hub, it is one of the 3 measurements that are required in identifying a wheel for fitment. 16x9 wheel with 0 offset is awfully close to not fitting, an 8.25 +0 rim gives maybe a finger worth of clearance between the stock spring and strut, so you may have to run a thin spacer for that 16x9 to fit.

 

Good luck.

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honestly didnt know that XXR was a knock-off rota, ive never heard that. Its not that 900$ is too much, I just dont like to put that kind of dough in my rims. My Z32 has had stock wheels for over 8 years ive owned it. So, let me ask my searching stated that the rims needed - offset to fit, so Im assuming that its incorrect.  Because a 0 would probably need a spacer (which makes my nerves rattle) so basically any + offset on a 16x9 rim should clear?

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You are going to have to do a little more reading I think. There are two boundaries that a wheel has to fit in most cars (unless it is an open fender car or running push rod etc); those boundaries are the fender/body and the suspension. If a wheel has too much negative offset it gets pushed out board, push too much outboard and your wheel hangs outside the body. This is bad if you hit a bump your car will shred the tires by contacting the tire unless you run really stiff suspension. On our cars people cure this problem by running flares, which allow you more negative offset by removing the interfering fender and replacing it with a wider flare. If a wheel has positive offset it pushes the wheel inboard, this means it will contact the suspension,in our case the spring perch. Either the perch or the wheel has to give way, not that you could drive very far due to the grinding noises/wheel imbalance.

 

So by my comment that a 16x9 + 0 inch will most likely require spacers to not rub the suspension means that the spacer will be pushing the wheel further outboard in other words negatively. So to answer your question, no any positive offset 16x9 will be even closer to the strut, you want a 16x9 with some negative offset to run stock spring/strut. Keep in mind the more negative offset you run the closer you are pushing toward the fender. On my car with a 225/50/15 tire on a 15x7+0 with 1.5-2 degrees of camber out back, I rub on the stock fender on hard dips.

 

When people say that the F:17x9-13 and the F:17x9.5-19 fit our cars, that refers to a flared 240-280z. Keep in mind tire and camber choices will affect what you can fit under the car as well, also keep in mind there is no logical point in running a wider rim than tire or running silly amounts of camber.

Edited by seattlejester
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Man, I had the offset stuff completely wrong in my head then, I had found some +20 offset rims and really liked them, so It DOES have to be a negative number for a wider rim. I do want to flare the car, and 17in rubber seems easier and more fair priced to get ahold of. Thanks for that insight, even though I feel like I will NEVER find wheels now.

 

On a side note do you have an opinion on suspension set ups other than coilovers? Like a preferred strut/spring combo?

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Correct it now, it will help much in the future!

 

You can run a little more positive offset if you run a coilover setup since the spring perch is drastically reduced in size (more of the wheel can fit inboard), but running wide positives without spacers is going to be a bit difficult. The more positive the offset the thinner the rim will eventually have to be, I think you can fit a +20 if it is 6 inches wide I believe, or you can run a 20mm spacer on a 17x8 +20 and bring it back down to 0. So you are correct, to run a wider rim you will have to accordingly have a more negative offset. I agree with you spacers are a bit scary, but some people do run them and run their cars hard, just keep the amount of thread engagement in mind or use a quality bolt on spacer. A good point on stock suspension is 8 inch wide with 0 offset. The wider you move the wheel the more negative you should go.

 

Rota will be one of the few cheaper carriers of negative offset 17's. You will either have to look for smaller size rims, or consider a spacer/conversion to run a more modern offset, granted those massive spacers scare me a good deal.

 

Suspension will depend on what you want out of your car. The chassis won't be able to handle really stiff springs without flexing unless it is a really fresh chassis or has a bit of structural bracing. I have tokico hp struts with linear 280z tokico spring from beta motorsports, it rides really comfortably and dampens pretty quickly, the car has a bit of travel when I floor it but no where near stock levels. One step up is tokico illuminas with adjustable dampening, but with both of these setups you are going to run out of travel on the front strut if you lower your car more than an inch or two.

 

Given your serious power plant you might be inclined to shop around for coilover options via sectioning your own struts via instructions found here and floating around on the internet, or buying a weld on kit, or buying a bespoke strut housing/hub with a sleeve and strut already installed. Look around and see what other people do with their cars, if that is what you would like to do, see what they run.

Edited by seattlejester
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