260DET Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Because they have to. So lots of overheating, most of the usual cooling measures like ducting, slotted rotors and so on are not allowed by the rules. I've made a couple of suggestions like using extended pad shims and a brake fluid recirculator. But pads, Hawk DTC-70's crumble, anything else around that works well at higher temps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beermanpete Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 I have had good luck with Raybestos ST-43 pads in the stock front calipers. They work at temperatures that melt the Porterfiled R-4 pads. I bought them from Porterfield but I suppose they are available elsewhere as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 You just have to drive while being easy on the brakes. On hard and then off for short intervals Don't drag the brakes, no trail braking, left foot brake, and learn how to carry more speed through the corners. Move roll stiffness to the back of the car so it rotates more and gives better control with the throttle. Install the front brake backng plates from a early car or run no front backing plates. Hawk blues have worked well for me. Most important, take weight out of the car and make sure the rear drums are adjusted tight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 When I raced using the stock brakes I had to decide whether I wanted good brakes at the start or at the end of the race. A lot depended on how I qualified. If near the front, I would use the brakes hard at the start of the race and then ease up on them towards the end. If I qualified poorly I would save the brakes while working through traffic for a hard charge at the end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Porterfield R4 (not R4S which is dual purpose street/strip) with a good, fresh fluid like RBF650. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 Porterfields R4E. R4 won't survive a race weekend even with four 3" ducts on stock brakes. Been there, done that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted May 4, 2015 Share Posted May 4, 2015 I second the raybestos pads. Those are the only thing that live on a friends EP car. Supercooled rotors do live longer but are not always to come by. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 tuff z Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Just ran my first DE on ST43's and enjoyed them very much. A significant improvement over the Hawk HP+'s i was running. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
clarkspeed Posted May 5, 2015 Share Posted May 5, 2015 Like Johnc said, you will need to balance your braking aggressivness with trying to get about 2 hours of life out of pads. You would be surprised what lap times you can get by rolling on and rolling off the pedal. Solid, consistent, threshold braking will only gain a .1 or .2 seconds on most turns and is usually the last thing a pro driver tries to squeeze out. From turn in to apex is where the magic happens. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted May 5, 2015 Author Share Posted May 5, 2015 Thanks blokes, some good stuff which will be passed on. Wrote a treatise on racing a S30 with standard brakes on another forum and what may be done to improve their performance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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