L33/TKO600 73 240Z

[hornedcow]

First post!

 

I have a 240Z that I bought from a member here after searching for a few months. It definitely passes the 10ft test with ease, but it ended up not being as nice as I was expecting. We were able to work out a fair price with that in mind so it worked out for both of us.

 

After the engine work is completed, I will be getting the body work and exterior repair completed so she'll be real nice.

 

Car has a somewhat upgraded L24, with a S3 cam, AZC 4 bbl intake, header, etc. Had carb problems, didn't run very well. New carb made things a bit better, but still underwhelming. I can fix that.

 

When I bought the car I had an iron 6.0L sitting in the garage with no plans but I decided an aluminum block LS would be a better fit for this car. I picked up a L33, and soon after picked up a TKO600. I wanted a lightweight trans but I know a T5 wouldn't last too long. This trans is more than strong enough and is still quite a bit lighter than a T56 (and cheaper)

 

I haven't started the swap yet but I've been preparing everything for a few months. I have most everything I'm going to need, at least all the really expensive stuff.

 

L33 aluminum block 5.3L

LS2 intake

90mm cable TB

F-body oil pan

Dingo mounts

CX longtubes

Harness/ECM

TKO600 5 speed transmission

LS6 clutch/flywheel

Lakewood bellhousing

Aluminum driveshaft from F-body

Speedhut gauges

 

Currently I am modifying the harness removing all the unneeded crap from it, once that is completed I'll be starting the actual swap - should be shortly after the holidays.

 

My feeble goals

-More than 2x current HP

-Same or better mileage

-Lighter curb weight/better distribution

-More reliable

-AC

 

Things I still need

-Different injectors or injector spacers

-Alternator and bracket

-Compressor and lines

-New fuel pump or steal fuel pump from the Corolla and hope it still works

-Figure out differential situation (really want R200 + CLSD), fab skills aren't quite at the level where I would trust myself making custom diff mounts

 

[Marks260z]

Good looking car to start with.

[JMortensen]

Nice, realistic expectations and looks like a good car to start with. Are you doing anything to the motor? Rated 310bhp stock, cam can bump that up quite a bit with no problems and the swap is easy. I used a 220/224 .581 on my L33. Haven't dyno'd mine but seems like should be in the 325-350 whp range based on what I've read online.

[hornedcow]

Thanks for the replies!

 

I do have a stock 6.0L cam sitting around but it would be a really marginal improvement I think for the effort involved. Of course, the effort involved on a stand is a lot less than the effort involved once in the car.

 

The L33 cam has a longer duration than the iron block 5.3L cam IIRC, but not as long as the stock 6.0L (which may have more lift as well)

[BossaNova]

Cool!  Look forward to seeing some progress.

[JMortensen]

The cam swap is easy. I have the 5.3 in my 2006 GMC and it is done at 5500 rpm. If take the time to swap it even if you don't go bigger. Might want to check if you would need to upgrade the springs too. Not sure on that.

[hornedcow]

Chomping at the bit to get started, just a little hesitant to start tearing down as I have two lifts and one will be out of service for awhile as soon as I start =p

 

Here as some more goodies

 

Fuse block kit - will be a lot nicer than parts store fuse blocks, gives me more room for future accessories, and puts all the relays in one easy location. IP66 rated!

 

 

Also I've had the exhaust kicking around for a little while but didn't take any photos of it. Should make the swap a lot easier. Only part I'm planning on fabricating is the transmission mount.

 

[hornedcow]

Been working more on the harness, I de-pinned all the connections from the old fuse block and removed a few more things from the OEM harness. The injectors I am going to run are EV1 connectors, so I had to change the 8 injector pigtails from the truck harness to the EV1 style.

 

Since I plan on routing the harness behind the intake (and running a different intake) there are many wires that will need adjustments. The driver side bank of injectors all had to be lengthened (got that part done).

 

I still need to lengthen the ECT, IAC, TPS wires, and shorten the MAF, CMP, O2, and grounds.

 

I've been researching the accessory drive options that will fit in this chassis. I'd like to go with the F-body low mount alternator to keep it tidy up top, so I'll need to get the corresponding water pump and balancer. But does anyone know if any of the factory compressor mounting brackets work in an S30? I know that you can buy top mount A/C setups but I don't really like the looks of them. Who else has an LS with A/C?

[Richard Oben]

I have looked at the low compressor mounts (A LOT) but the problem is they are too long to use the stock cross member.  The JCI mount seems to be the one of choice, driver up high. So unless you make your own passenger side mount, notch the frame, and oh yea, the headers become a problem also, the low will not work..  In short not worth it  There are some mounts that use the new super small compressor but it also mounts to the top.  If that set up was not crazy expensive I would consider it and center mount the tensioner.  The advantage to me for the passenger side mount is routing the wiring and hoses.  Just my opinion,  HTH, Richard. 

[hornedcow]

I have looked at the low compressor mounts (A LOT) but the problem is they are too long to use the stock cross member.  The JCI mount seems to be the one of choice, driver up high. So unless you make your own passenger side mount, notch the frame, and oh yea, the headers become a problem also, the low will not work..  In short not worth it  There are some mounts that use the new super small compressor but it also mounts to the top.  If that set up was not crazy expensive I would consider it and center mount the tensioner.  The advantage to me for the passenger side mount is routing the wiring and hoses.  Just my opinion,  HTH, Richard. 

 

That is helpful, thanks. It looks like you can use it right on top of a F-body low mount alternator and it's not a super high mount so it isn't too unsightly. Sucks that they don't make a mirrored image of it for the passenger side, because those are some long ass A/C hoses if you run them around the front of the motor into the evap housing on the passenger side firewall. All the work to keep an engine bay tidy, followed by a 6ft long A/C hose.

[Mike Mileski]

You do realize that to mate a TKO600 (designed like Gen I/Gen II transmissions) to an LS motor, you just can't simply bolt them up. It requires lots of mix and match and specific bellhousing, flywheel and clutch combinations.

 

Mike Mileski

Tucson, AZ

[hornedcow]

You do realize that to mate a TKO600 (designed like Gen I/Gen II transmissions) to an LS motor, you just can't simply bolt them up. It requires lots of mix and match and specific bellhousing, flywheel and clutch combinations.

 

Mike Mileski

Tucson, AZ

 

Yes I will need a specific pilot bearing and a certain bellhousing from the old GM 4 speeds IIRC. This would mate a T5 to an LS or a TKO since they share the same bellhousing bolt dimensions. Mine already was behind an LS though, it came with the correct input shaft, SFI bellhousing, and (used) clutch setup.

[hornedcow]

Got more done on the harness today!

 

I went to the junkyard to snip some pigtails from a donor vehicle, so I can lengthen a few connections without either having to have two unions per wire or having mismatched wire colors. Lengthened the ECT, TPS, and IAC, which sorts everything out on the top end. On the bottom end, I will still need to lengthen the alternator pigtail and then I should be all set.

 

 

Also got the correct injectors I am going to use, so I clipped them in the rail and verified correct length on all the sensors. Looks good! Needs a good cleaning and it should be real nice. I have some new loom on the way, so I don't need to reuse the scraps I have left over. I also changed the routing for the bottom half of the harness, on factory applications it runs down the driver cylinder head and then down to the alt, ECT, CKP, and A/C. I ran it down behind the intake and along the side of the block under the cylinder head so it shouldn't be visible.

 

[hornedcow]

Think I made my mind up on the rear setup for the car.

 

Going to go with the T3 setup and a Q45 donor. That will get me the R200, LSD, good ratio, disc brakes, no stub axle to break, coilovers, and adjustable LCA's. I think every component in the rear will be new! If I don't like the VLSD, there is a helical LSD upgrade (not the OBX, wrong number of splines) for not too much money later on down the road.

 

Last week one of the local yards had a 95 and a 96 Q45 (looking for 90-96). Looked yesterday, and they only showed one. Went to yard, and they actually have none. Will need to keep an eye out unless someone has a rear subframe from a Q they want to sell! Should be easier to come across than a 300zx TT rear, although the Q45's are almost getting too old to be showing up in yards around here now. Hopefully one will pop up.

[hornedcow]

IT BEGINS!

 

Spent the last few nights cleaning out the shop - it was long overdue and there was crap everywhere from the last few projects. Still some clutter, but much better than before and a decent work environment.

Probably the cleanest it will be for awhile, it's about to have a Datsun parts explosion take place.

 

 

Hopefully start having regular updates now, as my free time should be going towards this.

 

 

[hornedcow]

Well, that was easy.




Now for the hard part, everything else.

[hornedcow]

Oooh yeah baby, nice and wet


Oh what's that? You want it dry? OK I can do that


Yeah baby line it up lets go


Oh yeah just the tip


Ooooo


Deeperrrr


Mmmmpfff




First test fit went swimmingly, passenger side header is easy install. Driver side appears it will need to be installed from underneath or put in with the motor, we shall see. Locations appear close enough that I should be able to use the stock transmission crossmember, which means I won't really need to fabricate anything at this rate.

[hornedcow]

Pulled the engine out and "painted" the engine bay



Looks acceptable now, we're not going for Concours level anyway.

Also melted a hole in one of my credit cards, but have ordered most of what I need to complete the car.

Today I ordered
Low mount alternator bracket (will get alternator from work)
Driver side mid mount AC compressor and bracket (I hate the look of the high mount setups and low mount won't work here)
Q45 rear subframe dropout (will be using diff, axles, hubs, and brakes. been looking unsuccessfully for months at any junkyard in the state)
T3 rear converion kit with LCA's

When it's all said and done the rear conversion kit will let me bolt in all the drivetrain and brake bits into the Z and have 100% new suspension components. Literally every piece of the rear setup will be replaced with upgraded components. Axles will be rebuilt with shorter and stronger shafts for the Z's track width, diff will bolt in, modern hubs, bearings, and brakes (and no more stub shaft!); and we will have adjustable LCA's and coilovers.

Things I still need to spend money on:
Fuel tank cleaning
Fuel tank mount for modern in tank EFI pump
Fuel pump
Water pump
Alternator
Correct harmonic balancer
Belt/Hoses/misc
Driveshaft shortening/balancing
Tires for new wheels

Not needed to run but will probably happen in same timeframe:
Aftermarket AC unit (leaning towards Vintage Air Gen II mini)
Drier
Custom A/C hoses

Later on down the road:
Additional chassis bracing
Front suspension
Front brakes

[hornedcow]

It doesn't appear that the CX racing headers will clear an SFI steel bellhousing with provisions for an external slave on the TKO. It looks like it could be dimpled or the bellhousing clearanced but the header is right where the slave should be. Could rework and make a bracket to use a pull type slave, but instead I'm going to go with a stock aluminum housing and then use a hydraulic throwout to keep things clear down there.

 

TKO puts the shifter about 4" too far forward, probably just going to make an offset handle and see how it feels. Transmission mount is a few inches too far back, which could be made up with the engine mounts but then that would make the shifter problem worse.

[hornedcow]

I received my low mount alternator bracket, but that is all I've gotten from what I've ordered. It'll be Christmas next week!

Since I don't really have anything substantial to work on, I decided to do a shop project I've been thinking about for awhile - overhead shelving/storage.

Probably going to duplicate this elsewhere in the shop, but for now I did it in the front corner (by the garage door). Without going crazy I can get 12' x 3.5' of room without blocking anything. It's about 4ft tall in the front and about 3.5ft in the corner. I could run the supports out to the next rafter but then you have clearance issues with the garage door track, and it would be partially blocking the lights. The bottom of the shelving will be about 10ft off of the ground.


Here is what we have to start with ... wasted space!


Here is a rough idea of what I want to do


Getting the 12ft 2x4 threaded on the rods was an interesting task by myself, but I did it!


Framework complete


First sheet up. I will highly recommend an assistant for myself in the future.


Second sheet up.


The view is pretty nice up here!


All done for now - I've got more to toss up there later.

I am by no stretch of the imagination a carpenter so I am very happy with myself and the end result. It was very sturdy before I even ran any screws into it!
At the front, the 2x4's are screwed to the 2x6's. The plywood is screwed every few inches into the 2x6's, and the 2x6's are screwed through the metal beam. I had to clip the one corner or the plywood because of the buildings cross brace, so I stuck an extra piece of 2x6 to support to back corner from flexing. The threaded rod is supposedly good for ~1100lbs each so whatever I can carry up the ladder should be fine up there.