bramagedained Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 FWIW, Will's kit has gone in 240/260/280s so they must all be very close, at least between the mustache bar mounts and the welded nuts for the front mount. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yellowoctupus Posted September 21, 2016 Share Posted September 21, 2016 And I dont like that it requires buying a new rear cover. Yeah, but you should be able to run basically any 8.8 cover; steel, cast Al, whatever. I guess with a steel cover, you'd have to run some 5mm spacers between the mount and the cover, to account for the steel cover being thin, which would throw the front diff to body mounting holes out of alignment. The issue with doing a 'sandwiched' plate as you mentioned earlier is you have additional sealing surfaces to maintain. (So the whole plate will have to be very flat (±0.005"??) Are you thinking gaskets, or RTV here or what? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ryan Merrill Posted September 29, 2016 Share Posted September 29, 2016 Subbing. Hopefully this gets built. Many of us need that upgrade, including myself Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelsonian Posted December 7, 2016 Share Posted December 7, 2016 Just bumping this to see if anything new has occurred. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buff_n3rd Posted January 10, 2017 Share Posted January 10, 2017 Anything new with this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 Anything new with this? Sorry all, I'm extremely slow with remodeling my home at the same time. GOOD NEWS, EVERYONE teamzmotorsports in Michigan has my designs as of this week and are working on on the fabrication work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeathByNissan55 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 spitsnaugle - when you do have the time, could you give an overview of what you plan to provide in this kit, along with a list of items you plan on keeping standardized - like bushings, nuts, bolts, etc. Also, have you come up with a plan for axles yet, so far the cheapest sounds like to use the explorer axles, have them cut down, then resplined for z31 outer joints (may be wrong about the specifics on that, just trying to give an example). Would love to hear some ideas. I dont remember if I said this anywhere but I'm very interested in coming up or helping with a design that will make it nice and cheap and easy for S30 people to get this done....and, ya know, to be able to handle lots o torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nelsonian Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 I'm certainly watching and looking forward to what will come of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) spitsnaugle - when you do have the time, could you give an overview of what you plan to provide in this kit, along with a list of items you plan on keeping standardized - like bushings, nuts, bolts, etc. Also, have you come up with a plan for axles yet, so far the cheapest sounds like to use the explorer axles, have them cut down, then resplined for z31 outer joints (may be wrong about the specifics on that, just trying to give an example). Would love to hear some ideas. I dont remember if I said this anywhere but I'm very interested in coming up or helping with a design that will make it nice and cheap and easy for S30 people to get this done....and, ya know, to be able to handle lots o torque. Due to slight differences in the Inner CV mounts between Cobra and Explorers -- I'm only looking at providing the mounting hardware. Axels, etc. is all up to you guys. I'll provide lengths based on what I use once I get my parts back from teamZmotors and can mount everything. I used the driveshaftshop's Ford Explorer 8.8 inner CV mount for 108mm or Porsche 930 CV joint. I think it was $500~ for the set. Numbers below: 108-FD-I-31 Ford Cobra to 930 Stub 108-FD-I-31-2 Ford Explorer to 930 Stub The bushing mounts I'm having made are similar to ArizonaZ, TechnoToyTuning, and Whitehead, I dont know what bushing they use, but mine are based off of Energy Suspension 7.1102G. Edited January 11, 2017 by spitsnaugle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Good, getting away from Z31 parts is what we need to do. Every year there's less and less of them, so moving onto something else is a great idea. 930 CV's are insanely plentiful and can be found used on all sorts of vehicles. You wouldn't happen to have a picture of your design would you? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted January 11, 2017 Author Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) On 1/11/2017 at 12:55 PM, Neverdone said: Good, getting away from Z31 parts is what we need to do. Every year there's less and less of them, so moving onto something else is a great idea. 930 CV's are insanely plentiful and can be found used on all sorts of vehicles. You wouldn't happen to have a picture of your design would you? The rear: Edited January 6, 2018 by spitsnaugle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DeathByNissan55 Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 (edited) I understand your wanting to get away from using Z31 joints, but are the 930 joints really that affordable? I believe the weak point of stock 930 joints are the cages, so if you upgrade those, use explorer inner CV mounts and explorer axle shafts cut to correct length (resplined for 930 joints on inner and whatever widely available nissan joint you use for the outer/whatever hub you're using), wouldnt that be the cheapest route while still maintaining high torque capability? Please anyone add their experiences as it sounds like spits has the diff mount part of it under control. Edited January 11, 2017 by DeathByNissan55 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted January 11, 2017 Share Posted January 11, 2017 Many BMW's use 930 joints in their CV axles. I picked up a set of E23 axles from a pick and pull which has two bolt on 930 CV joints for dirt cheap. Almost all dune buggies use 930 joints as well, so getting custom axles is actually as easy as it can get. Loving the design of the bracket! Sandwiching it between the diff cover and the housing would require two gaskets, but you could run any cover you like...I'm a fan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted January 13, 2017 Author Share Posted January 13, 2017 Hi all, I could use a measurement if anyone has Ford Explorer 8.8 differential from a 2007-2011. (or any others that has two front mounts) My diff only has the front mount on one side, so I need the measurement of the distance between the two front mounts, (center to center) if anyone has calipers large enough to get that, I'd be super thankful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 I have an '09, I'll grab some measurements when I get home tonight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NC88 Posted January 13, 2017 Share Posted January 13, 2017 166mm center to center. The mount holes are 12mm diameter. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 (edited) On 1/11/2017 at 1:13 PM, spitsnaugle said: The rear: ROUGH drawing of the front mount. Ron Tyler style, extended back, bracket on top to mount an adjustable rod end and separate bracket to tunnel. Edited January 6, 2018 by spitsnaugle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted January 18, 2017 Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'm assuming the mounting holes are going to go on those little tabs on the inside of the main bracket. Seeing as you'll have to weld them on, could you also weld a gusset to the back of that opening for added strength? I've attached a MS Paint edited drawing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spitsnaugle Posted January 18, 2017 Author Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'm assuming the mounting holes are going to go on those little tabs on the inside of the main bracket. Seeing as you'll have to weld them on, could you also weld a gusset to the back of that opening for added strength? I've attached a MS Paint edited drawing yes- those will have gusset plates, but just inside, past the mounting holes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zboi Posted February 6, 2017 Share Posted February 6, 2017 spitsnaugle I'm very glad to see you doing this. I saw ZCD kit with the idiotic mount that bolts outside the cover requiring a new one and was wanting to make something exactly like you describe that sandwiches. Are you making a suspension upright too? I think that is the main thing to make the swap easy/cheap. I was wanting to do something like Will did but have it just use the explorer front hubs and not some Franken-dodge dealio.That way you could grab everything from a junkyard from one car, and then you can use the stock explorer CVs with just a shortened axle. Should be super easy and affordable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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