madkaw Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Installing my WCR axles and ST rear seat bar and they aren't getting along. I took out the spacer bushing on the sway bar , but still need more. The bolt I'm using ran out of threads so I will gain a bit more when I can tighten the ends more. Anyone else deal with this ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Try anothe pic Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BluDestiny Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 There is no load on that, so it's drooping. I'd like to see what it looks like sitting on the ground with a wheel on it. Or just jack up the strut with a piece of wood to keep it safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
74_5.0L_Z Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Delete the rear sway bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Just bought the sway bar Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Shouldn't it clear from any position? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 Delete the rear bar. If you just bought it, return it. A rear bar actually hurts the Z. So you are killing yourself to add weight to the car that works against you in corners. Costs you traction exiting corners. Even if you have an LSD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 19, 2016 Author Share Posted August 19, 2016 Even if I increased my bar up front? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RebekahsZ Posted August 19, 2016 Share Posted August 19, 2016 I guess... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Got some clearance by shortening bushing. Question regarding axles. With everything mounted on I can grab the shaft and slide it back and forth enough to hear it banging the adapters - is that normal ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rossman Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Are you certain it's hitting the adapters? Are there c-clips on the ends of the splines to prevent the shaft from sliding in or out too far? Seems like there should be Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 There are no c clips on the axle. I was told by WCR hat it's designed to slide in and out to allow for length changes. It's a trick the off road guys use to gain a ton of suspension travel. As a downside, the splines are made to fit loose to allow the sliding movement. But this in turn adds a fair bit of slop/play. Certainly more than my stock u joints had. I'm going to investigate into doing a true 930 axle swap (WCR are technically VW type 2? 4? Axles, but labeled "Porsche style"). I also may be at the limit of what they rate the axles to (400hp). The used German made 930 axles are VERY tight with no rotational play at all. Hopefully the shorter custom axles I get turn out the same way. I was hoping for less driveline clunk, not more when I decided to go CV Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtnickel Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 As another note. The sliding axles likely is not a problem. Once they centre or get bumped away from the adapter, the friction from torque applied will likely keep them in a position away from the adapter. The inner face of the adapter is also chamfered and would cause minimal wear if it were to rub. Grease it up and worry not. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 There are clips on the very ends . After I thought about it - I figured they couldn't move once torque was applied to the splines . Wasn't a big fan of the Allen heads and trying to get 35lbs or torque on them. Had 2 bolt heads strip out. I know their tight I guess . Now the safety wire job- this ought to be time consuming :0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
baby_Carlton Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Delete the rear sway bar. Delete the rear bar. If you just bought it, return it. A rear bar actually hurts the Z. So you are killing yourself to add weight to the car that works against you in corners. Costs you traction exiting corners. Even if you have an LSD. Interesting that you guys say this, can you explain why? I too just ordered a 1" front and 3/4" rear sway for my Z. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 I have read that putting a rear sway bar on does not improve handling- even make it worse if using the stock front bar. I have not found much info on it searching in general. There's not even much to read that is subjective. Love to see some testing done at an autocross from an experienced driver . So many factors involved between shocks , springs , etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
madkaw Posted August 22, 2016 Author Share Posted August 22, 2016 Called Futofab and verified play in axle. More than necessary for our cars , but shouldn't negatively affect anything . Also questioned the torque requirement on the bolts and he said he will revisit this. 35lbs is too much for 8mm bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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