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Ironhead

ANOTHER Datsun Z/LS3/T56 Swap Thread

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My experience with POR 15 has not been good and I tend to put rust bullet in the same category.  Without going too much off topic, I will say that the PO of my car told me that he had treated the floor and hatch with POR 15 rust encapsulator. I purchased the car back in 2008 and he treated it some time before that.  By the time I got around to fixing the rust issues on the floor of the car, I found that the POR 15 came off easily and there was rust still spreading underneath.  Judging by the poor workmanship everywhere else the guy touched the car I presume that he simply painted over the existing rust and the result was that the rust continued to spread, hidden under a thin shell of "rust encapsulator."  In my opinion, these products are all about the marketing and much less about actual rust prevention.  Anyway, I just thought I'd share my experience and opinion FWIW.

 

I love the build!!!!

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My feeling with Iron Head's application needs is he could have used almost any product touted as "rust encapsulating" and be fine, it's a clean build!

People read "can apply direct to rust" and think no prep is involved like removing as much rust as possible before application.  Sounds like PO of rossman's car just slapped POR 15 over flaky rust thinking it would penetrate to solid metal, no bueno.

 

For those interested I have been looking into paint products and seriously considering Tamco Paint for all coating needs this time around.  Relevant to this conversation they have "Direct to Rust Primer" which I think would also work well to brush into seams and welds to treat rust.

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Thanks for the input dudes, I sincerely appreciate it.

 

I too am dubious of some of the claims of these sorts of products, but keep in mind I am by no means "pushing the envelope" in terms of what they claim to do.  AFAIK, I have no rust.  I am just forcing this product into seams where it is impossible to be sure.  I live in a very dry climate, but my car has been "in progress" with a lot of bare metal for three years.  The only surface rust that really appeared during that time is a little bit on the right rear quarter (because that is near where I drain the water from my compressor), and a little bit on the dash bar underneath the clamps I fabbed to mount my dash.  All the visible rust will be wire brushed off before epoxy.  I am only using Rust Bullet in places where I cannot see, in the crack formed by pinch/lap welds.  It is purely a precaution, since even if I could detect rust in those joints, there is no mechanical way to remove it short of dismantling the shell.  I would have to chemically neutralize it with some product or another anyway...

 

So my choices are to do nothing with Rust Bullet, seal the seams, and paint the car.  I am 98% sure I would be fine with that plan.  Or I could brush in epoxy, which has no claimed rust countering ability.  That would be fine as long as no surface rust cropped up in the seams in the past three years after I stitch welded the shell.

 

I have given this a lot of thought, and I think I am covering my bases about as well as is possible to do.

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I've been working on prepping the body shell for epoxy primer/seam sealer/paint.  Basically the regimen has been needle gun/hammer & chisel to remove weld spatter, assortment of wire brushes in an angle grinder to remove other weld...crap....followed by maroon Scotchbrite to remove burned epoxy (from welding) and to scuff the epoxy coat that was put on three years ago.  Literally every square inch needs to be scuffed, there are a lot of nooks/crannies, as you can imagine.

 

To keep from going crazy, I set small goals for the day, and once they are done I stop, even if I feel like I could do more.  Today I did the firewall and inner driver's side fender.

 

But, yeah, the job is a freakin PITA.

 

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