Dyno'd my stock L28ET today - coolant everywhere!

[ZHoob2004]

There's some discussion of this valve in this stickied thread 

 

Specifically this post by Tony D says the valve is a poppet valve that only bypasses coolant when pressure surges (high rpm, thermostat closed) or when the heater valve is open. Based on that, I would say an elbow connected only to the heater (as on earlier engines) and not revving while cold (shouldn't do this anyway) would work fine.

 

 

[AlbatrossCafe]

Thanks @ZHoob2004 that makes more sense. Of course, I could also just replace the T-fitting again with a proper bypass valve and make it work as it was intended on the ZX engines. If only I can find that part....

Edited September 7, 2018 by AlbatrossCafe

[TimZ]

On 9/6/2018 at 3:22 PM, malibud said:

Innovate is terrible i am on my 4th controller (its brand new in the box still in the box they just keep sending me new ones i have practically rewired everything trying to get it to work 

FWIW I've been running an LM-1 for years now with zero issues.

 

Also, if it's truly a stock setup, they only rated it for 180hp at the flywheel to begin with.  You're maybe a little low, depending on what trans you have, but that's right in the ballpark of what you should expect.

Edited September 17, 2018 by TimZ

[stupid_fast]

16 hours ago, AlbatrossCafe said:

Thanks @ZHoob2004 that makes more sense. Of course, I could also just replace the T-fitting again with a proper bypass valve and make it work as it was intended on the ZX engines. If only I can find that part....

I think Zhoob answered your question sufficiently, It looks like you had the right idea in your post. 

The cold thermostat bypass was more for people who hop straight in their car and run it up on the highway at high revs cold, that is the only condition where you need additional coolant bypass.  The L series block already has a built-in bypass for the coolant which is sufficient for most street applications.

If you still want to put the correct valve in there, I believe the part number is 27188-Q0105, around $36. 
Personally I deleted the one off my setup, one less thing to go wrong on the track.  27195-E4400 is the single outlet fitting for the back of the head. 


@timz, yes the L28ET is only rated for 180hp from the factory, however 148 seems a bit low even for a stocker.  I thought I saw some old dyno sheets that were closer to 160whp. 

The AFRs at 5000rpm seem a bit rich, but the fuel curve is right on match with the factory fueling map.  Possible the AFM spring is worn out.

@OP what ignition timing are you running?  Stock EFI should be 20 degrees with idle switch plugged in. (ask me how I know) 
Although this probably doesn't matter much if you're going megasquirt anyway.

Edited September 8, 2018 by stupid_fast

[AlbatrossCafe]

52 minutes ago, stupid_fast said:

I think Zhoob answered your question sufficiently, It looks like you had the right idea in your post. 

The cold thermostat bypass was more for people who hop straight in their car and run it up on the highway at high revs cold, that is the only condition where you need additional coolant bypass.  The L series block already has a built-in bypass for the coolant which is sufficient for most street applications.

If you still want to put the correct valve in there, I believe the part number is 27188-Q0105, around $36. 
Personally I deleted the one off my setup, one less thing to go wrong on the track.  27195-E4400 is the single outlet fitting for the back of the head. 


@timz, yes the L28ET is only rated for 180hp from the factory, however 148 seems a bit low even for a stocker.  I thought I saw some old dyno sheets that were closer to 160whp. 

The AFRs at 5000rpm seem a bit rich, but the fuel curve is right on match with the factory fueling map.  Possible the AFM spring is worn out.

@OP what ignition timing are you running?  Stock EFI should be 20 degrees with idle switch plugged in. (ask me how I know) 
Although this probably doesn't matter much if you're going megasquirt anyway.

 

Thanks for the part numbers! That helps a lot. I tried looking around at those diagrams but was lost. So you are saying there is another bypass in addition to the one I just blew out?

I have a 1982 L28ET with a 1978 280z 5-speed trans and diff. The pulls were done in 3rd gear. Maybe if they were done in 4th gear they would read a little higher. As far as timing goes, I have no idea. I haven't configured anything.The swap was actually done in 2004 by the previous owner and I bought the car in fall of last year.

Edited September 8, 2018 by AlbatrossCafe

[TimZ]

22 hours ago, stupid_fast said:

@timz, yes the L28ET is only rated for 180hp from the factory, however 148 seems a bit low even for a stocker.  I thought I saw some old dyno sheets that were closer to 160whp. 

The AFRs at 5000rpm seem a bit rich, but the fuel curve is right on match with the factory fueling map.  Possible the AFM spring is worn out.
 

 

The OP's rear wheel number is about 18% below the stock flywheel number. The OP didn't specify what trans he had nor what gear he used for the pull, or at least I didn't see where he did.  For an "actually stock" manual it''s a _little_ low, like maybe 5hp.  For an automatic it's about right.

[AlbatrossCafe]

11 minutes ago, TimZ said:

 

The OP's rear wheel number is about 18% below the stock flywheel number. The OP didn't specify what trans he had nor what gear he used for the pull, or at least I didn't see where he did.  For an "actually stock" manual it''s a _little_ low, like maybe 5hp.  For an automatic it's about right.

Good point - updated the O.P.

It is a 1982 stock L28ET with a 1978 280z 5-speed manual trans and rear diff in 3rd gear.

 

According to this page, that puts my diff at 3.545 ratio and 3rd gear at 1.308. I asked him about doing it in 4th gear since that ratio is 1.0 (I thought all dyno runs should be done with a 1.0 ratio gear?) but we started in 3rd gear first for some reason. I think the plan was to move to 4th before my coolant line blew.

Edited September 9, 2018 by AlbatrossCafe

[Chickenman]

On 9/6/2018 at 5:13 PM, madkaw said:

If course I think my 14/7 is going out also, so not sure what’s the best,

 

As far as the dyno numbers, good baseline to start with. At least you did this so you can relate numbers to Butt dyno. 

14Point 7 will show you error codes on the WB controller. What makes your think it's failing Steve. 

 

[madkaw]

8 hours ago, Chickenman said:

14Point 7 will show you error codes on the WB controller. What makes your think it's failing Steve. 

 

 

My Spartan numbers don’t match between gauge and TS .

 

We need to do another session. 

[TimZ]

13 hours ago, AlbatrossCafe said:

Good point - updated the O.P.

It is a 1982 stock L28ET with a 1978 280z 5-speed manual trans and rear diff in 3rd gear.

 

According to this page, that puts my diff at 3.545 ratio and 3rd gear at 1.308. I asked him about doing it in 4th gear since that ratio is 1.0 (I thought all dyno runs should be done with a 1.0 ratio gear?) but we started in 3rd gear first for some reason. I think the plan was to move to 4th before my coolant line blew.

Yeah, in general the higher the gear multiplication, the higher the loss from friction.  Also 4th is direct drive in this trans, so it's preferred over 5th (no gears meshing at all in 4th).  So 18% loss is probably about right for a 3rd gear pull.

[softopz]

5 hours ago, madkaw said:

 

My Spartan numbers don’t match between gauge and TS .

 

We need to do another session. 

You need to calibrate it with the "sequencer" mode Usually flashes 3 numbers on the gauge for 3 seconds each as it starting. 13.3 16.6 and 19.9 If I remember go to https://www.14point7.com/blogs/news/16539352-maximizing-accuracy-between-spartan-2-and-megasquirt Look at tunerstudio numbers as its flashing on the gauge then use the excel spreadsheet to input those numbers.

 

Those numbers look very normal, remember this is a bone stock 5psi on a stock t3 . With a decent modern turbo, exhaust mods, modern efi and fuel to support you should see double that.

[Chickenman]

14 hours ago, madkaw said:

 

My Spartan numbers don’t match between gauge and TS .

 

We need to do another session. 

That's usually a voltage offset problem or Calibration problem in Tuner Studio. Hussein gives direction above to correct that.

 

However, I wonder if there is a connection between the two. You mention that your engine has been running a bit rough lately. Then I saw low alternator levels in TS. Then we have the AFR gauge and TS reporting different values. I wonder if you have a bad or loose ground somewhere? That could cause all three symptoms. 

[AlbatrossCafe]

Here is a follow up to coolant hose issue...

 

Replaced the old 3-way fitting with a 2-way. It cleaned up that side a bit as it went from having 4 separate coolant lines to just 2. I like it!