Jump to content
HybridZ

No (Low) Rear Brake Pressure


Recommended Posts

What you have here is known as a Kluge: a collection of ill fitting parts forming a disgusting whole.

 

Looks like the PO used hard lines that were too long. To get the lines to fit he took up the extra length by coiling the hard lines.

 

The lines are not anchored correctly.  Get rid of the yellow zip ties and do it right.

 

Replace the hard lines with stock lines or make your own. 

 

If you are not up to making your own hard lines find a shop or web site that can make the lines at the correct length.

 

Note: the fittings on Z cars are all 10 x 1.0mm double inverted flare.

Edited by Miles
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I've got a roll of 3/16 copper tube and a package of M10 flare nuts on the way.

 

I really didn't think much about the hard lines because the brakes worked when I bought it. I am thinking that is a massive air trap though.

 

The good news is that the line from the engine bay to the rear T is fine.

 

Happy Birthday America,

Enjoy your holiday all.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So I decided I needed a break from working on the brakes.. HAHA.. Anyway I took it to a shop and they tried for 3 hours and didn't make any progress, they took the MC out and bled it and then went to the corners in the right sequence. I wanted them to try before all the lines are yanked out and the car is down for a long time.. again...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Do you access to a good flaring tool? If not consider something like this,https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pro-brake-tubing-flaring-tool-with-45-and-37-degree-die-set.html

It's the best flaring tool I've ever used and if you don't think you'll ever use it again you can sell it on Craigs and get a big chunk of your money back. The one I bought has done complete brake lines on four Z's now and still shows no wear.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

A short update, I adjusted the push rod out a little bit and that help with the pedal feel slightly. I need to back it off a little bit as the as the rears would lock up after heavy use. I still do not have enough pedal feel and when I hook up vacuum the pedal goes to the floor instantly. This still seems like an air issue but again we cannot get any more air to bleed out. I was wondering if the safety switch under the master cylinder can cause issues when it gets older? also is there any chance a bad brake booster would cause this? I am only asking these questions because I plan to replace the lines this weekend and I really never want the best with the brakes again. so if I need to replace either of those now would be the best time.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well I don't see a reaction disk in there....

 

Edit: also based on the crustynes of the booster and the fact that i can get one from autozone for under $100 with tax and shipping I plan to just replace it.

20190716_214244.jpg

Edited by Twisted46
Additional thoughts
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Victory!!!!! Brake booster replaced (45 minute job) and i can barely move the pedal with the car off!!!! I spent so much time and money chasing down a $.01 piece of rubber but I have better brakes for it. 

 

Thanks for coming along for the ride everyone!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...