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Sometimes people discover that the rear caliper bleed screw hole is not actually the highest point when installed after these conversions, because they're not designed for Z cars.  It's close but still has a spot for an air bubble.  They have to unbolt the caliper and rotate it so that the channel to the bleed port really is the highest point.  They bleed the brakes with the caliper loose, then rotate it back and bolt it down when they're done.  Be the bubble.

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So after messing with this countless more times I decided to order an Wilwood 1" MC. The only thing I did not try is reverse bleeding the brakes, mainly because I did not want to take out the speed bleeders just to have to put them back in. Also after further analysis I seem to have 1 pump that is low and then the rest will be higher at the same height with firm pedal. That makes me think it could but and undersized MC like Miles mentioned. 

 

I also plan to do larger front brakes at some point so I will need the upgrade. 

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Posted (edited)

With the one inch MC you will notice that it takes more pedal force to stop the car. If you are going to larger calipers on the front then you will be all set.  Even with the one inch MC you may still notice longer pedal travel before the brakes engage after you install larger front calipers. It is kind of a domino effect when modifying brake systems.

Edited by Miles

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5 minutes ago, Twisted46 said:

Well the Wilwood MC is in and.... still the same problem. Now I am wondering if the problem is the POs crazy brake lines coils they put in the lines for the rear. I will try to get a picture later. 

 

Coils?

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Posted (edited)

Yes my 77 had the same problem with my old lines i had to pump the peddel to blead because the vacuum pump would suck the liner inside the rubber lines shut and my peddle was soft because it had to blow them up. There are no coils in my lines i have the ss ones from the z store.

Edited by 720fast

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Posted (edited)

What you have here is known as a Kluge: a collection of ill fitting parts forming a disgusting whole.

 

Looks like the PO used hard lines that were too long. To get the lines to fit he took up the extra length by coiling the hard lines.

 

The lines are not anchored correctly.  Get rid of the yellow zip ties and do it right.

 

Replace the hard lines with stock lines or make your own. 

 

If you are not up to making your own hard lines find a shop or web site that can make the lines at the correct length.

 

Note: the fittings on Z cars are all 10 x 1.0mm double inverted flare.

Edited by Miles

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I've got a roll of 3/16 copper tube and a package of M10 flare nuts on the way.

 

I really didn't think much about the hard lines because the brakes worked when I bought it. I am thinking that is a massive air trap though.

 

The good news is that the line from the engine bay to the rear T is fine.

 

Happy Birthday America,

Enjoy your holiday all.

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So I decided I needed a break from working on the brakes.. HAHA.. Anyway I took it to a shop and they tried for 3 hours and didn't make any progress, they took the MC out and bled it and then went to the corners in the right sequence. I wanted them to try before all the lines are yanked out and the car is down for a long time.. again...

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Do you access to a good flaring tool? If not consider something like this,https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-pro-brake-tubing-flaring-tool-with-45-and-37-degree-die-set.html

It's the best flaring tool I've ever used and if you don't think you'll ever use it again you can sell it on Craigs and get a big chunk of your money back. The one I bought has done complete brake lines on four Z's now and still shows no wear.

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A short update, I adjusted the push rod out a little bit and that help with the pedal feel slightly. I need to back it off a little bit as the as the rears would lock up after heavy use. I still do not have enough pedal feel and when I hook up vacuum the pedal goes to the floor instantly. This still seems like an air issue but again we cannot get any more air to bleed out. I was wondering if the safety switch under the master cylinder can cause issues when it gets older? also is there any chance a bad brake booster would cause this? I am only asking these questions because I plan to replace the lines this weekend and I really never want the best with the brakes again. so if I need to replace either of those now would be the best time.

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Posted (edited)

Well I don't see a reaction disk in there....

 

Edit: also based on the crustynes of the booster and the fact that i can get one from autozone for under $100 with tax and shipping I plan to just replace it.

20190716_214244.jpg

Edited by Twisted46
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Victory!!!!! Brake booster replaced (45 minute job) and i can barely move the pedal with the car off!!!! I spent so much time and money chasing down a $.01 piece of rubber but I have better brakes for it. 

 

Thanks for coming along for the ride everyone!

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