rvannly Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Hey guys, I am in the process of building a rear control arm. Did a bunch of research and planning, but have hit a snag. It pertains to the sway bar mounting point. I've built a jig so I can replicate another arm for each side and have been slowly building. If you look at the picture, the hole for the sway bar bushings (bolt that's circled in red) interferes with the threaded part of the spherical ends. In this photo, the rod end is fully contracted and since the jig is built around a stock arm, I won't be able to adjust for positive camber. I'd only be able to extend the spindle/wheel outward so I'm thinking of moving that hole in towards the diff. I still need to make the plate that connects the two bars so that's not shown. It will resemble the shape of the OEM arm. Right now I think I have two options: run no rear sway bar or move the mounting hole inward towards the diff and make a new sway bar end link that's offset. How are people running sway bars on the T3 arms? How much negative camber do you get? The T3 arms look like there is barely any room also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HuD 91gt Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Can you move the mount upward, and use shorter endlinks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neverdone Posted August 7, 2019 Share Posted August 7, 2019 Move the mounting hole aft, run the sway bar so it goes behind the drop down suspension mounts. Add additional spacers as need be to make sure there's no binding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tube80z Posted August 9, 2019 Share Posted August 9, 2019 Change the mount on the bar to use a rod end. Then a flat piece can be welded to a tube that crosses that area. The flat piece will have to extend top and bottom if it will be universal like the stock arms. This design isn't as good as the toe-link option. For the amount of work I'd opt for the latter. Cary Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvannly Posted August 10, 2019 Author Share Posted August 10, 2019 Neverdone, that's a good idea. Easy to implement tube80z, I'm not following Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 10, 2019 Share Posted August 10, 2019 I used something like tube80z's idea on a set of arms I built but never used. I just added angle iron so that the end links were in double shear. I would suggest you add your connections to the bottom of the control arm so that you can use longer end links, although this gives you a left arm and a right arm. If you put the mount in plane with the control arm you will still have universal arms but will need shorter end links. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvannly Posted August 11, 2019 Author Share Posted August 11, 2019 Ohhh I see, great idea guys. Thanks for all of the input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted August 11, 2019 Share Posted August 11, 2019 As to the separate toe link part of Cary's suggestion, you can read this. If you would prefer to buy, Apex Engineering has basically my end result for sale now: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rvannly Posted August 11, 2019 Author Share Posted August 11, 2019 Jmortensen, thanks for the link I missed that one. So much info. looks like I'll be changing the design. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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