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DonH

In Tank Fuel Pump Install - My Notes

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Hello Hybrid Z! I’m here to document my process of installing the Tanks Inc. Universal In Tank fuel pump. This has been done before numerous times BUT is somewhat elusive to track down quality pictures, notes etc. 

 

This is not a thread to discuss In tank VS external w/ sump etc. but I will mention my reason why I went with this setup. 

 

***Disclaimer - I’m assuming you understand there’s is a risk involved when welding / cutting a old used gas tank. There’s a reason why I left mine out for almost 6 months while I worked on other parts of my build. PLEASE BE CAREFUL / make sure your tank has ZERO fuel particles / fumes leftover in it. Proceed at your own risk***

 

 - Weld In universal sump hung to low on my lowered Z. You can imagine the issues! 

- External pumps are NOTORIOUS for noise... my build is a mid canned LS swap with AC etc.  

- Reduces the “clutter” under the car in the rear area

 

Now for the what you will need parts wise :

 

1. PA series universal Kit from Tanks Inc. - MAKE SURE TO BUY THE FLOW RATE THAT SUITS YOUR BUILD 

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/mode=prod/prd84.htm

 

2. 240Z or 280Z tank - Clearly the 240Z has one terrible baffle and the 280 has a few more. Baffling is not the Z Cars gas tanks strong Suite. With the PA kit it comes with a nifty little In tank sump that works amazing for MOST applications. 

 

3. Tanks Inc PA-REC - Surprisingly very nice piece with a great 

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-pa-rec/

 

4. MIG Welder - I use the Eastwood MIG 135 and it does everything I need for this job and any other job in the Z! 

https://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html

 

 

First step is I measured up the top of the tank where I was going to chop! Here’s the great part about this process - you have a MASSIVE HOLE to get inside and clean / add baffles if you want! 

4591F7BA-E77C-4729-868D-AEE2BB4EC73F.thumb.jpeg.c3c509c464adec63a8d27593d68b7bc4.jpeg

 

The recess fits nicely in the hole I just created :) 

56FFE06A-8DFE-497C-ADEE-CAEEAB788A73.thumb.jpeg.261e33f136b2744e17f85129b8167d6e.jpeg

 

In order to keep my stock fuel gauge I heated up the plunger am and bent accordingly to clear the Tanks Inc. system once installed 

2F161080-4A03-43E4-9814-2A4D97807EDA.thumb.jpeg.83bbb4b5787f8a32711af7f346b9d6a6.jpeg

 

I then used all 16 screws to since right the locking rig UNDERNEATH the recess and tack welded at and between each screw hole - 32 rack welds total 

BB8D9DFE-9C03-42BA-AE31-6BE1E1DDB604.thumb.jpeg.3b6e1e2ff1ee58e14de277cf4a575162.jpeg

 

 

after this I measured the Vertical portion of the tanks Inc arm with the recess mocked up - I measured a total of 9 15/16” so I cut to 9 7/8” for a little extra room - I then used a square to tack weld the tray instead of using ONE screw that’s supplied 

674A0229-C0E9-4ECE-98DF-10F3D8557269.thumb.jpeg.b0f667b36787066371c40d89880436c4.jpeg

 

 

stay tuned for more tomorrow :) 

 

-Don 

E7B16D72-7802-46E9-845E-B39418463C34.jpeg

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I did mine in very similar fashion. Keep in mind that the factory used fairly low temp solder to attach the hose barbs and sending unit flange. I got mine too hot and had some solder run out. Which was a bit of a pain to fix. 

 

I ended up fitting the Tanks inc sending unit in there as well. It was tight and I am not sure I gained much from it. In hindsight I should have just fixed the factory one. 

 

Do you plan on sealing the inside? I would be happy to share notes on that. I got good at it after I had to completely strip and re-do it a second time. Don't be like me, do it once. 

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