DonH

This statement is too true - That and remember, you are swapping in a engine and transmission designed for a COMPLETELY different make and model. No matte rhow perfect the kit you will need to be able to tweak it to fit.

You could make your own mounting ears in the rear section - I would. The stock trans mounts were designed to hold a 70# trans in place not a 140# trans lol

I have heard of issues on the 280Z chasis with the CX kit - I had the same issue with my engine mount as well so I took it to a machine shop with a large break press and bent the ears to sit flush with the engine crossmember. You can do this at home witha vice and a propane torch if need be. I also used the side holes and drilled another mounting point for security on the ears. For the transmission - Why not return the transmission mount and fab up a full cross mount like the hoke / JTR style mount? https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/store/s30-ls2-engine-mounting-kit Where are you in cali? I could point you in the direction of local machine shop to bend your tans crossmember? Do you have an IG? PM me it ill conenct you with a guy that made his own as well with minimal welding and worked / is holding amazing!

I searched for over 2 years for a non rsuted part out.... no luck. Im now fabricating my own from sheet metal. Good luck!

count the splines - 240 will have 25 - 280 will have 27

I have some I can send you and then you can send them back when your done measuring?

Bump up top

bump still for sale...

What’s your PayPal? I need a set + the jig. Thanks!!!

those look great man! Curious if you have come up with a solution to the header issue. it seems amlost EVERY single LS swap header has this issue except the stock headers. Im contemplating keeping stock headers at this point lol

Great choice on coil overs! I have the same - only gripe is the studs are not long enough to run a strut tower. I replaced them with 6mm longer studs for this exact reason. Nice work so far!

Hey Joe, Want to trade Shifter Relocation part? I have a GTO trans ( I didnt know this) and the MGW short shifter as well. I need the inner part and would gladly trade you my GTO for your F-Body one

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Hello Hybrid Z! I’m here to document my process of installing the Tanks Inc. Universal In Tank fuel pump. This has been done before numerous times BUT is somewhat elusive to track down quality pictures, notes etc. This is not a thread to discuss In tank VS external w/ sump etc. but I will mention my reason why I went with this setup. ***Disclaimer - I’m assuming you understand there’s is a risk involved when welding / cutting a old used gas tank. There’s a reason why I left mine out for almost 6 months while I worked on other parts of my build. PLEASE BE CAREFUL / make sure your tank has ZERO fuel particles / fumes leftover in it. Proceed at your own risk*** - Weld In universal sump hung to low on my lowered Z. You can imagine the issues! - External pumps are NOTORIOUS for noise... my build is a mid canned LS swap with AC etc. - Reduces the “clutter” under the car in the rear area Now for the what you will need parts wise : 1. PA series universal Kit from Tanks Inc. - MAKE SURE TO BUY THE FLOW RATE THAT SUITS YOUR BUILD http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=84/mode=prod/prd84.htm 2. 240Z or 280Z tank - Clearly the 240Z has one terrible baffle and the 280 has a few more. Baffling is not the Z Cars gas tanks strong Suite. With the PA kit it comes with a nifty little In tank sump that works amazing for MOST applications. 3. Tanks Inc PA-REC - Surprisingly very nice piece with a great https://www.summitracing.com/parts/tnk-pa-rec/ 4. MIG Welder - I use the Eastwood MIG 135 and it does everything I need for this job and any other job in the Z! https://www.eastwood.com/mig-welder-110vac-135a-output.html First step is I measured up the top of the tank where I was going to chop! Here’s the great part about this process - you have a MASSIVE HOLE to get inside and clean / add baffles if you want! The recess fits nicely in the hole I just created In order to keep my stock fuel gauge I heated up the plunger am and bent accordingly to clear the Tanks Inc. system once installed I then used all 16 screws to since right the locking rig UNDERNEATH the recess and tack welded at and between each screw hole - 32 rack welds total after this I measured the Vertical portion of the tanks Inc arm with the recess mocked up - I measured a total of 9 15/16” so I cut to 9 7/8” for a little extra room - I then used a square to tack weld the tray instead of using ONE screw that’s supplied stay tuned for more tomorrow -Don

How much are the headers and hows the fitment? I went with the CX racing engine mounts and trans mount but I feel the CX headers sit WAY to low...

No need for material behind it. Practice with two pieces of 20g to dial in your MIG machine. Are you not repairing the rust on the inside? I noticed you treated it and are not repairing - If you have it apart now, might as well repair it. If you cannot do it - hire someone... considering our cars are thin unibody construction its a great idea to trpair not just the cosmetic rust but also the structural. Be happy the coupe dog legs are CHEAP! I have a 2+2 and they are only made in Australia as replacements... I fabricated my own using a english wheel and they came out pretty dang good. Albeit I did repair the inside portion as well - Had the beginings of cancer rust.

No interest?

SPANKED THE GT500!!! Love it man! Question, what type of modifications have you done to the engine?

Also, when you get your driveshaft, could you take a measurement and post? SInce most 2+2 LS swaps are not documented as well as yours that would be so helpful! Plus, I need it hah

Dude! Love it! Im doing something similar to my 260Z 2+2 (US model early #) I just finished stitch welding the entire frame... have to weld in the bad dog rails as well. Are you not concerned with the frames ability to withstand the new power plant / suspension upgrades? Also, I saw you went with the $75 LS swap kit - why did you opt out of the $115 one? Did not need all the accessories?

Hey HBZ, I have a set if driver and passenger side CV’s for sales. These are from a 1989 300ZX TURBO! Yes these are the turbo version! You know, high HP capable ones made with quality parts! Pricing is $700+S/h OBO these will clip right in to a R200 - use weld on or even the WHP billet 27 spline adapters. Your call. Please remember these are becoming a PITA to find. Thanks for looking!

Hey HBZ, I have a set if driver and passenger side CV’s for sales. These are from a 1989 300ZX TURBO! Yes these are the turbo version! You know, high HP capable ones made with quality parts! Pricing is $700+S/h OBO these will clip right in to a R200 - use weld on or even the WHP billet 27 spline adapters. Your call. Please remember these are becoming a PITA to find. Thanks for looking!

way to go man - I spent 3 hours last night getting my harness ready - Question - Where will be the final mounting location for your ECU?