Moving tension rod mount outboard

[fusion]

Hi guys, looking for advice/comments on a question I have.  I am in the process of building a 5.3L turbo 280z and am looking at my downpipe routing down the passenger side.   It's going to be tight, and I was looking at the tension rod mount that sticks out into the engine bay.  If I could use a shorter tension rod, and fabricate a new mount outboard towards the tire, I could gain a bunch of space. (See crude picture)   I willingly admit that I don't know how this would affect the driving of the car.   I could do both sides but only need the passenger side.  The car will not be tracked, just a street car with a couple of drag passes a year.  

 

Thanks for any advice.

 

[Neverdone]

If you're going to change the suspension, at the extreme minimum, do it on both sides.

 

Unless you're making a circle track car or something that only turns one direction, you're gonna want it even.

[JMortensen]

By using most of the aftermarket TC rods, where the rod end bolts into an adapter that bolts into the bushing cup, you're effectively shortening the rod anyway. I think you can shorten the rod a little bit and not see much difference in how the car drives. The more you change it, the bigger the effect on the caster sweep, so I'd keep it to the bare minimum.

Also, having removed the TC buckets from a chassis personally, I can tell you that they have about 457 spot welds per side, and it's tough to remove them without messing up the frame rail underneath at least a little bit. This would be 877x easier with a rotisserie too. All stats pulled straight from my ass, BTW.

 

[NewZed]

How about converting to the 280ZX design?  Same concept except the loads are reversed.  Nissan moved the rod to the front of the arm.  You'd have to build some structure up front to attach to.

 

 

 

 

[fusion]

Thanks for all comments.  Jmortensen, great pictures.  I was thinking I could just cut the mount off flush with the engine side frame rail, weld in a new angled plate and mount the bushing there.   Would save a ton of time with spot welds.

 

NewZed, very interesting idea, thanks.  That could be a great solution.  Upon initial look getting around the tie rods could be an issue, but not out of the question.

 

 

[JMortensen]

ZX has a rear mounted rack. I think the steering would be a real problem with a forward TC rod.

 

If I understand your idea correctly, then yes, hacking the part that protrudes into the engine compartment off and welding on a new plate and then running a bushing or rod end or whatever would certainly be easier and it probably wouldn't significantly change the length. Agree with the comment above though, do whatever you do on both sides.

[tube80z]

One thing to add is if you push the wheel forward to gain more caster then that small difference will be closer to nil. Like Jon said if you try and remove via spot welds you better have a number of cutters available.  I cheated and bought and air powered spot weld remover.  It wasn't cheap but oh boy does it make this easier.

 

Cary

[fusion]

Thanks for all the comments everyone