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Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build


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On 8/25/2021 at 12:32 AM, A to Z said:

should I go back to original style headlights?  Not sure if these are too modern.  Thanks.

 

Its hard to say.  I think that modern looking headlights seem to grab attention.  So I find myself looking at the headlights rather than the car, or the car style after the headlights.  Try this --> Google search '240z front end' then look at the pictures.  Many with original look and many with the new look.  Then make a decision.  The good news is that its easy to change it one way or the other.  

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10 minutes ago, YoBrother said:

Love the spoiler.  Nice classic look.  And good function.  Dad always said the 280z got light in the front end at about 90mph.  The front spoiler cured it.  

The front end of my first s30, a bone stock '76 would lift up at ~70mph, at least that's what I remember.  It's been 30 years or so. 

 

Agree with Calz that it's a matter of personal taste. Stick with what you got, you may end up preferring them. 

 

Personally, what I don't like about projector type headlights on the S30 is what they look like lit up.  I prefer the more traditional look of an old-school headlight. 

Edited by rossman
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I wonder if there's anyone that produces a projector light that has etched glass or something similar to imitate a reflector light. In a vacuum I think I'd prefer the old school look, but it's close enough that the performance gain is worth it. 

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Today I went ahead and tackled my rear suspension. In doing so I learned some things that are important to pass along. MSA/The Z Store is able to get Eibach Pro-Kit springs for S30 Z cars. Eibach makes them exclusively for MSA. BUT, they come without instructions, so I had to search and read, etc. to learn what I want to tell you now. Eibach springs are meant to be installed so that you can read the name. The springs come with 2 that have their item number that ends in "002" and 2 that end in "001". The "001" are longer than the "002". So which goes where? "002" go in the REAR. "001" go in the FRONT. Many have put them in the wrong side, and end up with almost no drop in the rear and high in the front. I think many of those who complain about these springs put the rear in the front, and vice versa!! When you install them such that you can read the name, in the rear the tight coils are on TOP, the wide spaced ones are on the bottom! They are progressive rate springs, and operate correctly when installed correctly. Now, this is important! Pass along as needed to let everyone know please!

Edited by A to Z
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So, here are a couple pics of install, KYB struts, Eibach Pro Kit springs. Nice to have the Gland nut wrench. I was able to torque them correctly. KYB says not to put oil in the strut housing. Well for many years everybody said to......I left the oil in, and put the new struts in. Oil isn't going to hurt anything, and will help maintain heat levels. The struts I took out were the originals, and when I put the new struts in oil came out! So, be ready with a towel or 2 and some brake cleaner to clean it up ! 🙂

1.jpg

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17 dollar spring compressors in eBay. I really want to tell you they work great, but they don't. Yeah, I got the job done, but they are a pain to keep on the coils. They like to fall off. When I took the spring off and laid it on the ground one time....before I could loosen them, they came off and the spring shot them across the floor! That will wake you up! Very dangerous, I made darn sure I stayed out of the path of travel while using them. I guess you get what you pay for. 🙂

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Very nice Joe, I know you are done but I know where people also use one to two ratchet straps on the coils just in case everything lets loose.. Glad the spring didn't hit you or damage the car.. It is looking great.. 

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Had a little time in the garage today after swapping out the rotors on my daily driver. When the wear surface is thinner than the edge, leaving a ridge around the edge....it's time to swap them out.
Used the die grinder to take the ridge off and I was able to get the calipers off. My ceramic pads still have 1/8" of wear left. 😃 So anyway, after that I finished my rear strut job by painting out the passenger rear wheel well, so now I just need to bleed the brakes and the rear is good to go! Anyone done the gravity bleed before? I also went ahead and put a wheel on. Granted the car is still up in the air but it gives an idea what I have. Last pic has the vintage Datsun center badges. 14X7 wheels with some negative offset. Vintage Appliance "Wire mag" wheels, with custom center caps and Cooper 185/70R14 tires. They had to custom stretch to get the tires on! Here are a couple pics to go with coffee gents. 🙂

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I have done gravity bleed, with good results, but not on my Zs.  (Speed bleeders make the job so much easier and quicker.).  One thing I learned about gravity bleed technique is to only do one corner at a time, otherwise one corner could start sucking air from another corner.  First time I did it, I thought I could save some time by doing both rears at the same time but that ended up being a mistake.  Hope this helps.

 

P.S.  Check out Race Ramp wheel cribs...they are really nice.

Edited by jhm
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  • A to Z changed the title to Joe's 1972 240Z adventure. // 16 JUN 21 - 13 Jul 24 // 3 years 27 days build

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