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Turbo Header


Lockjaw

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Nonsense, you should not have any problems with pulling out studs if done properly. If sectioned it will increase the possibility of pulling out a stud. The 304SS does expand 25% more than mild steel, but there are several things that need to be done to allow the SS to expand in the right direction. My header is a perfect example of what not to do with SS. My header in .125" mild steel would be perfect. Short straight runs that merge, as in my header, will crack everytime with the short pieces expanding in different directions. What to do? You must use bends before you merge the pipes and you should use a merge collector as that is where the most heat and stress is placed.

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the flange looks like an one piece flange. With SS, you can't do that unless you want the header to stretch so far that it'll crank or break a stud. need to cut them so the metal has place to stretch. 304 SS has higher thermal expansion than mild steel. -corky bell smile.gif

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This was the last response I received from him...

 

"I will send pictures as soon as possible. The price for the 1.5"/T3 header is $800 and the 1.625"/TO4 header is $900. The header is currently in pre-production and finish prototyping. Hopefully by the end of October they will be ready to ship. Thanks for your inquiry!"

 

I kinda thought it was just one of those teasers..... emo.gif

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Lockhead, cutting the flange in some instances is the right thing to do, but not always. It is only a question of how the expansion of the tubes will affect the pulling of the header flange. You have to realize that the Z flange needs to be 9/16" thick so you will be hard pressed to substantially bend it due to forces created by the header pipes. This months turbo mag has a great article by Burns Stainless on how to properly build a header and things that can/will cause problems. How is it that with no experience you always have the answer? Put down your Maximum Boost book, arm chair Quarterback book, back seat driver book, film critic book and go out and get some practical experience.

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Originally posted by 240Z Turbo:

Lockhead, cutting the flange in some instances is the right thing to do, but not always. It is only a question of how the expansion of the tubes will affect the pulling of the header flange. You have to realize that the Z flange needs to be 9/16" thick so you will be hard pressed to substantially bend it due to forces created by the header pipes. This months turbo mag has a great article by Burns Stainless on how to properly build a header and things that can/will cause problems. How is it that with no experience you always have the answer? Put down your Maximum Boost book, arm chair Quarterback book, back seat driver book, film critic book and go out and get some practical experience.

I've experience, but I have no money :D That's what I get for going through school.
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I know all about that header as I was the one to give the PIC to Dave. That is correct, that is the header that Hoover has on his 240z. That unit cost 1850.00 made of stainless steel, and it is a one off unit. I spoke to the builder and he can make more of them, but it will cost you. Dave and I have been working together on a similar unit that will run about 900.00, but it is untested, and I have not been in contact withthe builder here for about 4 weeks. The first run is suspose to be completed her the eng od October. I do need to touch bases with him regarding the part.

I have been trying to get a good reasonibly priced header made and market it through Innovator Z. I have also been trying to get my 3" exhaust system going with Dave at Innovator. Have some patients guys, the stuff is in the works, it just seems like it takes for ever to get this stuff going. I know it took me 6 months from the time I started my proto to ship two systems and install one on my car. MONEY, that is always the problem, the builders dont want to do a one off or three off run, no they want 20 or 50 to make money, so getting this really trick stuff takes time and is a total pain in the butt. Anyway, hopefully, this stuff will be able to get not to long from now, cross your fingers, and maybe we can get some significant interest in doing a rerun of old car parts.

REGARDS: Jeff Priddy

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materials alone for my new 321SS header is about $1000 and a 304unit would be about $200-$250 less. I have been talking with South Florida trying to get a mild steel manifold built in the $850 range. It is not SS, but will have a 3yr warranty against cracking. Jeff, I think any header will be better than the stock jobber.

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I agree James, if you can even out the pulses its a plus. I would be interested in a mild steel unit, I like the SS, but for the header I think it is a bit overkill, I dont know I could be wrong. One thing that occures to me is that I would want it coated to retain some of the heat. I think that with a header you caould dissipate to much heat under the hood and not down the turbo.

I will give Steven I think his name is a call Monday and find out the stuff on the cheap header he says he is doing. That sure would be cool, but I am not counting on it. The header Innovator has listed can be done for 1500.00 according to Craig I think his name is. :D Got to start writing this stuff down more.

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Evening out the exhaust pulses with equal length tubes will give much better response to your turbo, but many speculate the necessity for equal length when going for all out HP. If you search this turbo forum you will see Alex Costa's single turbo header design. Good easy design for a long tube turbo header. I think the SFP manifold will also be a big improvement over stock.

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