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Pictures of Z's with ZX Turbo Motors, and Wiring?


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Thanks ON3GO. For the z i just cut out a stencil and spray painted it, turned out a waste cuz you cant see it through the bumper and grill, would look awesome w/o grille and smaller bumpers. The radiator is a MSA four row, i had to modify the mounts to get the 2.5" pipe through. I don't even know what type fans they are I picked them up at a local race parts store. I ran duals but i think one would work fine, less money and less current draw.

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Guest livewire23

holy crap hoke, that is sweet. I want my engine to look that good. Looks like Im gonna have to buy some paint and work at it...

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The block is POR-15 Chrysler Blue Engine Block Paint. I bought the engine paint kit from http://www.porstore.com/ The exhaust manifold/downpipe/turbo compressor will be POR-20 Bright Silver. I also used a little VHT brake caliper paint for some of the parts. Cleaning thouroughly is the key.

 

POR stuff is awesome. Wear a mask :twisted::P:shock:

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Guest livewire23

Indeed. I put on my respirator and pulled out the wire wheel. whew, that was tough. And Im barely half way done... I think I may not paint after all, since my budget's really blown, and I just found out I have to get yet another gasket. :roll: But my engine bay is gonna look good, if its the last thing I do. :D

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  • 1 month later...
Guest bastaad525

just the thread I needed, right here :) I too am very close to getting my turbo in.... about two weeks away now. Unfortunately I'm paying someone else to do it as I have not the time, space, or tools to do something as major as an engine swap myself. I have been just trying to visualize how the setup will be, and also some of the extra parts I'm putting in after the swap, how they will be placed and such. Been daydreaming about driving the car with the turbo inside 24/7... driving me nuts to be so close and yet still so far away :shock: It doesn't help now that some of the parts I've ordered for it have started to come in, I kinda just sit there holding them and staring in awe at the massive power they will soon be making :twisted:

 

 

Oh and very kewl surge tank setup there.... so there IS a way to run the stock 240 tank. Is it true that running a turbo out of the stock 240 tank is only a problem if it get's below 1/4 tank full and your in turns? If that's the case I wont even worry about a surge tank..... It's a matter of habit for me ever since I had my first ZX (which was also my first car with EFI) to never let the fuel tank get below 1/4 tank anyways. I dont have the tools to make one of those myself... is there something I could by at a store that would serve the purpose well?

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  • 4 weeks later...

After lots of wrenching, electrical gets attempted this weekend. Has anybody actually fit the Turbo AFM and intercooler plumbing all under the same hood in an early Z? By the way, the ZX turbo downpipe aims slightly at the tension compression bushing in the Z thus requiring a custom down pipe from the turbo. Are there any other remedies other than replacing the stock ZX downpipe with something custom?

 

Pics so far.

http://www.hvmp.com/dc/

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Cygnus, my 73 has the stock downpipe, I just bent the metal tab out of the way and put header wrap around that portion of the exaust for about 4". I think its one of the Scotties that does a 3" DP and 3" exaust for these cars.

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Maybe if I bend the metal tab and loosen the downpipe and push it as far towards the block as I can, it will clear.

 

Thanks I'll try it.

 

GOOD NEWS:

I am working on a Word document that will describe in detail the wiring and grafting that needs to be done to run a 1983ZX Turbo driveline in a 1976Z.

This will be a very valuable document once I am done. I will release it when my car is wired and everything works. So far I have rough wiring procedures written for the coil, fuel pump, ECU, alternator, tach, and water temp gauge. I need to actually do the wiring next to make sure I got it right. I am using ALL of the 83 fuel system including the fuel pump control module and fusible links.

 

 

Photos: http://www.hvmp.com/dc

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How do you fit the TurboAFM, the VCM, and a ZXT motor in a Z with AC and still have a clear path to run I/C plumbing?

 

Check out some of the tricks.

 

Cut about 4"-5" off the stock ZX boot that connects the AFM to the turbo intake and custom bracket the Turbo AFM on the original AFM mount. Set it just above the AC compressor. When you cut the rubber tube Leave the PCV bung and enough room for a clamp.

AFM-%20MOUNT.jpg

 

Mount the VCM on a custom bracket that shares bolts with the handy-light.

VCM-MOUNT.jpg

 

Oops, I lost the spring and cotter for the throttle linkage.....this will do.

SILICONE-SPRING.jpg

 

This setup will allow room to run intercooler tubes around the radiator support. I will need to go to an electric fan to make room for the return tube to pass between the valve cover and the radiator. Intake air will come from a cylindrical Purolator air filter that fits up under the left headlight bucket. A flex tube will go from the filter under the frame rail; right behind the tow hook, and up to the AFM over the AC compressor.

installed1.jpg

 

Oh and don't forget to make some heat sheilds and use check valves wherever you you take vacuum from on the Turbo Motor. Don't blow up all those HVAC controls with 7psi+.

 

More to come. It is almost ready to fire up. :twisted:

 

Dave C.

http://www.hvmp.com/dc <--more photos

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I used and aftermarket oil cooler that I mounted to the front of the AC condenser. I ran the hoses right behind the radiator overflow bottle and through the radiator support in the lower pass-thru. I do not have an ideal oil cooler setup yet. It does not have a bypass thermostatic valve and I am using barbed fittings to butt-connect the ZX hoses to the aftermarket oil cooler hoses. If you download the video you can see the lines and the brass barbed fittings right where the carbon canister usually goes.

 

http://hvmp.com/dc/Z-REBIRTH-Aug%208-2003%20.mpg (11.3Mb)

 

 

Dave C.

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  • 4 months later...

I'm wondering why you didn't simply convert to the z31, it would have eliminated the VCM and replaced the AFM for a higher flowing MAS.

 

 

 

 

Sleeper if you see this my zxt is running strong again. Also with NO EGR,AAC,FICD, AIR REGULATOR ,or other emissions, COLD start up on FIRST crank every time! OH, its about 20 degrees where I'm at.

 

tbs[/b]

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z31=elite!

In the next coming weeks, I will be attempting to run the infamous maf and ecu only conversion on a s130t, should be interesting. And yes, the maf conversion makes routing stuff like this really easy. the afm gets in the way of everything plumbing wise since we run the sideflow head.

 

Best thing IMEO to do is get rid of the rubber boot altogether, it slows down the air intake speed pretty good through the bellows. It adds a bunch of bends to the intake air. What I did for my air intake was 3" pipe to the maf, moving the maf away from the exhaust manifold, and running the pipe thru the radiator support and use a big air filter that touches the back of the front bumper, with a air horn resembling adapter welded to the front to further bring up air speed, as it forces a 8" diameter initial air charge through a 3" pipe. The system consists of 1 sweeping 30degree bend and one short 45 around the radiator support vs. having 2 flexible 45 degree bends that warp around plus the under car routing that slows things down some more. True, if you are running upgraded fuel and turbo and what not, this kind of stuff doesnt matter as much since efficiency is up and can compensate , but when you are working with a 260cc injector, a relatively small turbo that loses efficiency basically the moment you go into double digits, the small gains like this are worth it to me.

 

Replacing it with piping is instantly noticible from the butt dyno. When I ran the jpipe setup and the rubber boot, it felt like the boost would just snap on like night and day. When I changed the system out to what I did above, it makes the car feel like a really nice NA, smooth boost.

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Guest bastaad525

Cygnus - are you routing the breather from the valve cover into the J-pipe?? I had considered doing that... but um.. isn't boosted pressurized air then going to get forced into the valve cover?? Am I looking at the picture wrong?

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