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Autocross only tires


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Hey guys - thinking about getting some tires for autocross only. I was thinking about getting a lower profile (currently running 225/50/16) tire that would be stiffer and lower the car a little more (only on the track.)

Just wanted to see what other people here in SM2 (or even BSP or E Mod) are running. Let me know.

 

I was thinking about trying the new V700's or the Yokohama 032R's. Anyone using those?

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I don't like the huge tread blocks on the A032's. They are LOUD, especially if you run a lot of negative camber. Heard nothing but good things about the new Kuhmos, and they're cheap. I'd probably go that route myself.

 

If you can fit a smaller wheel on there, that would give you a chance to run a much smaller diameter tire rather than just playing with the aspect ratio, and would also lower your effective gear ratio...

 

Jon

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I really only see 3 brands of autocross tires down here (except for the novices). Kuhmo and Hoosier for race rubber and Azenis in street tire class. I've never tried the Kuhmo so I can't comment other than to say I see some great times from cars that have them. Hoosier and Azenis shod cars are running great times too.

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I was thinking about the gear ratio being shorter when I started looking for lower profile tires in 225 wide as well. Unfortunately I don't see anything lower than 225/50.

 

I can't go lower than 16 because I'm shooting for the 13" rotors in the front. Otherwise, believe me, I would. I might be able to get a set of 16x8 rims to use after the coilovers are in, but I'm not sure that going wider than 225 would really get me any better track times. I already have short steering knuckles and without power steering I'm not sure at what point turning the steering wheel is going to be an issue.

 

Loudness is not a problem for the track, but I'm all for the cost savings if the v700's are on approximately the same level.

 

Another (novice) question I have - what are the benefits of buying pre-heat cycled tires? Does that reduce the life?

 

Edit: John I just noticed you are using 16x10's with slicks. What rims and sizes are you using, and what is the offset? Do you have any rubbing issues when the wheel is close to being turned as far as it will go?

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I am running 16X10 Real racing wheels (max allowed in FP) with a 5" backspace, 2.5" coilovers and a .5" spacer in the back and .6 inch spacer in the front with 3" wheel studs. I got a helluva deal on these pretty rare size wheels so I built the suspension around them. In order to for the wheels to clear my spring perches are above the rim. I have what for all practical purposed may be considered 0 clearance between the threaded coilover tube and the rim, enough to slip a small plastic tie wrap between the lip of the rim and the coilover tube. The lips on my wheels are slightly wider than the tires. The tires are Hoosier 22.0 X 10.0-16 road racing slicks. Tires rub on the tension/compression rod a full steering lock but thats not a problem. Who races with the wheels at full lock?

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Good point. I was just wondering how close that would be cutting it, not necessarily worried about rubbing. Thanks for the info! I guess those are not really reasonable for me since this is still primarily a street car.

 

While I've got your ear, though, what size sway bars are you running, what spring rates are you using, and what do you have your camber at? (I realize this won't apply to my 700lb heavier car, I'm just curious.)

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I am running a 1" front and a 7/8" in the rear with 300# Eibach ERS all the way around. Rear camber is (adjustable) at 0 degrees and front is -1.5 degrees (not adjustable yet). It should probably be closer to 0 degrees as well for the bias ply slicks. Body roll, so I'm told by observers, is nil. I'm still trying to get smooth behind the wheel so I had a much more experienced autox driver test the car out this summer for me and he told me he still thinks it's a little soft in the front but lateral grip is tremendous once the tires get warmed up.

 

EDIT: Heat cycling: They say it adds lots of life to R compound tires. R compound tires have a short life and there is a proper break-procedure (heat them up, jack up the car while they cool, etc. I think tire rack and hoosier have the exact procedures on their web sites). You can get some R compound tires already heat cycled from Tire Rack to save you the trouble.

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You may also want to consider shaving the tires as well, depending on what you decide on. My first set of comp tires were the old BFG R1's. I understand the new Kuhmos come with less tread, something like 4/32", so they don't need to be shaved. If you decide on A032's I think they would benefit from shaving as well as heat cycling.

 

I tried to heat cycle that first set of R1's too, and that didn't work out too well. I went to the local canyon road and drove up and down and up and down, and couldn't bring them up to temp without going way past what was a safe speed on that road. Heat cycling in an oven is more even and is worth the $$$, IMO. Those R1's got the "groove of death" pretty quickly and they had 0 warning before they totally lost traction, so I ended up moving on to slicks, but shaving pretty much eliminates that groove of death problem, IIRC.

 

Jon

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Guest 81na ZX

Around here (Saginaw Valley Region SCCA) most people are running Kumho Victoracers with a smaller number running Hoosiers.

 

Nobody ran Kumho Esca V700 R-compunds last year. There was an article in GRM a while ago comparing R-compounds - and they liked the Victoracers better cause they were more repeatable...

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The Kumho Ecsta (Escta) V700 is a bad tire. A friend who races a Z in ITS tried a set and basically threw them away after his first session. Once they got hot they had no traction. I also know a couple autocrossers who did that same with a free set of the Ecstas.

 

The Victoracer V700 is a good tire and you get a lot for the money.

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this kinda off the topic but...

 

i was wondering if this would be a good set up for AutoX. My car is running Eibach coilovers with 250lbs/in springs all the way around, suspension techniques sway bars 32mm front/27mm back, urethane bushings, its got slight toe in in the rear, some -camber all the way around, and im going to be running 205/50 azenises. also what shock setting would be best for autoX? (5 way adjustable). its seems that there are some seasoned autoX guys here so any replies would be helpful.

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some of the tires mentioned here are road race tires and not autocross tires, the both of the kuhmo tires are nice, hoosier is best if you can afford them, the ecstav700 has changed compounds a few times since being introduced, so which batch will effect the results, the newest are supposed to be real nice, the ecsta's are lighter than the victoracers so you can wind them up a hiar quicker, and soon to be released is the ecsta v710 with an all new compound supposed to be next thing to the hoosiers

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this kinda off the topic but...

 

i was wondering if this would be a good set up for AutoX. My car is running Eibach coilovers with 250lbs/in springs all the way around' date=' suspension techniques sway bars 32mm front/27mm back, urethane bushings, its got slight toe in in the rear, some -camber all the way around, and im going to be running 205/50 azenises. also what shock setting would be best for autoX? (5 way adjustable). its seems that there are some seasoned autoX guys here so any replies would be helpful.[/quote']

 

the falken's are not a true autocross tire, they are awsome STS tires but can't hang with the true Autocross tires, also a smaller rear bar would eliminate some of the oversteer you must encounter with your set up, and for shock settigs, it depends on you as a driver and your car, I run koni adjustables, they are continuiously adjustable, I can't remember what they are set at, I worked out what fit me best a long time ago, I have a 1-1/8 front bar with no rear bar

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Z guy, I usually run front on 3 and back on 4 or 5, but you really have to just go and try it. You can make a significant difference in the car by changing the shock settings. Try 3 and 5 and if the back end is too loose try 3 and 4. Just go and have fun, and mess with the shock settings between runs. Don't forget your tire pressures, though. IME, they make about the same difference. So if your tires heat up and you are stuck playing with the shocks and don't pay attention to the tires, you won't be happy either.

 

Driving on the street I usually take it down to 1 on both ends. Makes my kidneys happier.

 

Jon

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