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Supra 2JZ-GTE swap into 240Z (pics)


cyrus

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I have had a few people ask about my engine cradle...

I have asked Mark at http://www.Mazworx.com to duplicate it, but since it is welded to the frame rails, he said that in order to get it to fit exact, he'd have to weld it in the car. Basically he'd need to build it there.

Mike

 

P.S. Good luck with the suit. It has been a LONG time.

 

Honestly the curved bar with the two mounts welded to it and perhaps some pads or U shaped pieces to fit the frame would be all that's needed. The cutomer could perhaps give the frame with measurement prior to fabrication. If I were in Florida I'd have no issue with having it fabbed on site but umm, I'm a good ways away :( some pics showing how the factory mounts mount to the cradle might help too - I have a shop here that could perhaps build one for me but I'm still deciding if I want to do this. I'd told myself I wouldn't get involved back into a car until this was settled but as of Jult 12th it'll have been two years. They have tried ignoring me, I got a lawyer. they tried ignoring my lawyer - that not go so well. they are trying to drag their feet, that not working. They tried to claim the car wasn't worth anything, a Barret Jackson appraiser told them otherwise - I contend his estimate was low too. they would like to sidestep my having been taken out of work for a week and my sprained back - not going to happen. they have evenwhined that I didn't "mitigate" the 4months of storage fees that had accrued, we pointed out that they took that long to make me a written offer. :rolleyes: They are running out of ways to stall and I want to build something! I have a fully ported brand new head and cams just sitting that would have put me over the 800RWHP mark and it's killing me. I have some spare turbos too :-) It's also cool that folks have stepped up and built parts to further replace the Datsun weak links like stub shafts and rear brakes with E-brake etc. so I'm starting to get the bug. *If* I can do it with a 6 speed and not go broke I might try - we'll see. :) I still think an SC300 would be a blast too and they have been selling, already swapped, at reasonable prices...

 

Anyway, congrats on your success! I've not been able to access your member's page so pointers to pictures anywhere would be appreciated. I'm not 100% set on doing the Datsun but it would at least allow me to sidestep all the emissions crap and tell the cops to goto hell when they bitch about "non-stock" exhaust :D

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  • 2 weeks later...
I don't have the turbo 2jz but i have several 2jzge's and the getrag is a nice tranny just very rare and expensive compared to the tremec units. So the benefits would be price, availability, and future rebuilds would be cheaper.

 

 

by the time you got a clutch setup and what not for a t56, you would be paying the same price for a getrag, plus the v160 is a single od transmission vs the t56 which is normally a double od tramission. the v160 is a far batter track transmission stock gearing wise.

 

btw nice swap, but the pics dont work on the first few pages, I lost interest after that because of the f'n keyboard warriors arguing about dyno numbers on a engine they will never own or use..

 

. I'm thinking about picking up a 240z for my next project after i finish the last 10% of this 1jz swap in my starion.

 

Anyone wanna point me to a page that actually has pics of the car that work?

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I'd be REAL interested in pics of the Starion JZ swap. I think I'd want the 2JZ but the two are not much diff in dimension :-) Oh and I have owned a nasty 2JZGTE lol :wink: Always liked the Starion's looks but the motor not so much. A 2JZ in a Starion would be the best of both worlds! I'd agree the V160 is the better trans, I hate the T56 I've got whereas the V160 was a complete dream. The double OD in the T56 blows and is a waste. 5th is actually usable in the V160...

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I dont really have a problem with a 1jz, I could have chosen a 2jz, I just felt the 1jz would be more than enough, and I was looking for something with a different powerband than what the original car had which is hobs of torque. My whole goal witht he 1jz is to make a good powerband out to 8500ish rpms. I'm only aiming for around 500hp at most. whenever I cant lay down anymore power is where I'll stop.

 

heres a link to my build thread. Right now I have the car really torn apart. I'm redoing the engine mounts, and putting together a holset turbo setup among other things.

http://www.nwstarquest.com/phpBB/viewtopic.php?t=77

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Heh, 500HP and power to 8500RPM should be no issue with a 1JZ :-) The 2JZ could spin that high bone stock and at larger displacement so the 1JZ ought to have zero issues doing it. 500HP is also pretty easily attained with the 2JZ and while it will be a little harder with the lower displacement 1JZ I doubt you'll have issues getting there. One thing I'd urge though is the use of a single turbo. The 1JZ wasn't sequential and there's zero benefit to using a pair of turbos over a single reasonably sized turbo. It'll be less plumbing and less cost. From some of the posts on that board it sounded like you were doing a set of modded twins, I hope the Holset comments means you've decided on a single.

 

It's a bummer you had to push the firewall back, was that the only possible way to get it in? From the outside the nose on those cars look long enough but I've never put a tape to one. Looks plenty wide thoguh which is nice! How much power will the rear-end take before it self destructs?

 

Looks like a fun project man,good luck with it! :D

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the point of the twin 14bs was that they were cheap and easily capable of over 500hp. And I wanted to use antilag quite a bit, so expensive turbos were out of the question. I've done part of the work already ie making flanges and buying the tubing for the manifolds. 135 bucks for a setup of turbos that will be able to push over 500rwhp isnt exactly expensive ;) Besides twins look sexier. But right now I may try a holset setup until I finish this twin setup. It all Depends if I can find a cheap source for a t4 to t3 adapter though. I see a lot of people talk ♥♥♥♥ about twins, and its mostly unfounded. The japanese have been using big twin kits with great success for quite a while. Making power with a jz is easy imo. It's making it with a decent powerband the counts at the end. I dont have any boundaries as im already running a e11v2 stand alone.

 

As for cutting the firewall, i wanted to, anything to move the engine back a little is a good thing. I can still put the interior back in etc...

 

Starion rear ends dont self destruct ;) Mitsubishi did good. The only issues I've ever heard of is a car or 2 sheering a axle from wheel hop. There are cares putting over 500ftlbs of torque on drag slicks with no issues. I've personally beat the living hell out of my starions and never had a issue.

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I'd agree that making power is easy and that keeping the powerband reasonable is the trick. I made good power but it was a huge jump as boost rolled on at 4K RPMs. It jumped well over 100RWHP in a split second! I ran a 71GTQ, I had intended to move to a 61mm turbo for street use to prove that I could make as much pump HP with that as I did the 71 and 67 before it. This engine is octane limited on the street to around 620RWHP with alcohol IMO, alcohol injection is real nice!

 

If you can do a twin setup for $500 go for it! Plumbing is more complicated but the headers aren't too bad - I've seen the HKS units. Little stubby suckers! Don't forget you double up on the wastegates, use good ones.

 

One last thing to consider, this is actually something that could be used on Zs too with some work... Racelogic Traction Control. http://www.racelogic.co.uk/ I had this on my car and it literally saved my life a few times. It's F1 technology and senses from all 4 wheels (ABS type sensors), it will even cut power if in a turn and slip is sensed - I sort of tested that. Does good data logging of wheelslip at the track too. If you can swing it do so, you will not regret it! Makes the car actually safe to drive in the rain too.

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I've got a question. If I were to get an automatic 2jz block, would I still be able to get the 1jz-r154 bellhousing to make everything work? Or would I have to change the output shaft? Should I just stick with finding a block that came from a 6-speed?

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For R154 manual tranny guys:

 

1. Get a JDM 2jzgte auto engine: pull off the tranny and flex plate, install a throughout bearing (from clutch kit below) into the back of the crankshaft

 

2. Get a R154 tranny from a Mk3 Supra turbo

 

3. Order a JDM 1jz-R154 bellhousing (check supraforums)

 

4. Order a 1jz flywheel (driftmotion)

 

5. Order a complete clutch kit for a Mk 3 Supra turbo (your choice)

 

6. Pull the bellhousing from the stock Mk3 R154 tranny and install the 1jz bellshousing and clutch kit

 

Now your all good to go to marry the R154 tranny to the 2jzgte. If you get ahold of a Mk4 Supra V-160 tranny then just install the TO bearing and marry the engine and tranny.

 

For 2jzgte/TH400 guys:

 

Talk to some of the Supra specialty shops that specialize in this conversion...Boost Logic, SP, Virtual Works

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To be clear - there's no difference in the blocks between the stick and automatic equipped cars.

 

As for the TH400 - talk to Scotty about the adapter he had done. I'm pretty sure he didn't buy it from a specialty shop and that it cost a good bit less than what they charge. Supra guys CLAIM that the RPMs a 2JZ turns and the torque produced beat up TH400 pretty good and that you need all sorts of special parts to make it live. I'm skeptical to say the least but there's all sorts of claims. I've driven a TH400 equipped Supra - it was an exciting ride to say the least but fun to tune on :-)

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There is so much cr*p on the Internet about the TH400 and mostly from theorist who really do not have a clue. It is extremely heavy. It saps a lot of HP so the car will be slower. Because it was made for American engines, it cannot hold up to the power/RPMs of engines like the 2JZ. Yada, yada, yada. Bottom line is, it weighs 20lbs more than a TH200-4R. No matter how much lower the dyno HP is for an engine with a TH400, that car is always quicker on the dragstrip. The TH400 is the strongest OEM auto tranny, period and requires nothing special to support big-time HP and RPM.

 

A buddy of mine who is a top-notch TH400 expert runs a stock TH400 with a 34-element sprag, upgraded pump and clutches and manual VB behind his destroked Buick StageII V6. The 3.5L engine is pushing 1200 at the wheels and he shifts it at 9200. My TH400 is a TCI unit with a manual VB bought through Summit for all of $992 shipped. Z-Gad's TH400 has nothing special done to it.

 

As for the 2JZ/TH400 adaptor, I am using the kit from Boostwerx, http://www.boostwerx.com. It cost $750 and allows me to use the stock 2JZ starter and stock GM converter.

 

BLKMGK is correct about the 2JZ engine. There is no difference between the automatic, 6-spd, USDM and JDM blocks.

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Somehow I knew you'd jump in Scotty :-) A very good link too - that's the shop that's doing many of the GE headers and stuff - someone else might be interested in that stuff too! for the street I really like an OD trans to keep the highway RPMs down but wow the instant power was sure nice in the car I drove! BIG turbo that made power NOW when you stomped it. Converters always seemed to be the big problem, guy I knew went through several and lockup units never seemed to survive long :-(

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Thanks for the info on the stuff needed to mate the R154 and 2jz. I'm already getting excited and I don't even have the tranny, engine, hell, my car doesn't even have a complete interior. Wow, my 240 is sad, but someday it will be a 2j'Z'gtte

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  • 1 month later...

Where did you pickup the engine(s) {for whoever has done a swap} Is there any place that's better than the other. I live in the Boonies in Cali (Sonora, CA) so I can't just go to a shop unless I want to shell out some big bucks for crap. I found www.tokyomotorimports.com to have VERY good prices on their 2jz, only $1400 for a motor, tranny (auto) and all the other jazz, doesn't seem right since the 1jz is $1200 with NO tranny, and the 3sgte swap is over $2g's. Anyway, what are other good, reliable sites?

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To be honest I never opened up the top of my engine but while switiching oil pans the bottom looked great (piston walls looked great, crank and rods looked fine, no metal shavings or junk in the oil or oil pan). I know that doesnt mean much but take for whats its worth. To be honest I found my engine from a place that was in te Whittier area. Forgot the name at this moment. It had a compression test tag attached that showed good compression. Doing a live compression test would be the best but like you said your not near any jdm importer shops. To be honest without doing a live compression test its a crap-shoot. Ask the shop for references. Also google the shop name. If someone has had good or bad experiences with them they usually let someone know about on a car forums. You might also want to look at the vendor area on this website. I seem to recall someone saying they sell jdm engines on there. You can also call Vildani. The do many of the sr20det swaps so I'm sure they have a good line on jdm motors.

 

Hope that helps. Oh and one last thing, be very cautious of buying from Canadian jdm sellers.

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I had real good luck with venus auto, and so does a friend of mine who deals with them regularly on 1jz and 2jz engines. I just bought a engineset. I never did a compression test while I had it running, but she didnt smoke and the turbos were good. Everything looked good. Transmission had no leaks, so i was real happy. If I ever get my holset setup going I will od a comp test, but im confident it will be fine. Watch for their sales, and you can do good. Also talk to the girl if you get a setup. I think her name is vicky or something.

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