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STI/WRX power steering rack Hummmm


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I changed over to the STI/WRX power steering rack and pump. On the good side I hauled off on the steering to make the car swing out of the garage and nearly took out the pillar. It is a very responsive system. On the bad side the system hums. It’s not loud but it is there. It is noticeable on even the mildest of turns. But makes no noise going straight.

I put in the recommended Dextron II fluid but I suspect it may be wrong. The lines are now shorter and bigger (3/8â€) than stock so I doubt that is the problem.

Anyone else had this happen?

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I'm still a long ways off but I do have the rack on the car. I wonder if you could post a pic or diagram of the line routing for the rack. I have the WRX maunal on my PC but The line routing is kind of vague in the manual.

 

Did you do anything to limit the travel of the rack? Looks like the wheels will turn in to my inner fender wells without some kind of travel limit. Thanks, Mark

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Thank you!!! You would think that the FSM would have that diagram. Again Many Thanks.

 

One more question, did you use the stock datsun steering shaft and datsun connector to the attach it to the rack?

 

Mark

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I used the Z shaft shortened about 2 or 3 inches. (NOTE: I lined things up this is not a true measure) I had to purchase the u-joint assemble from the dealer and welded it on. The u-joint assembly is made of hardened stamped steel. These things are pricy from the dealer so try and get one from the P&P. Drill it out to 15mm, slide the Z shaft in and weld.

The Z rack shaft and Subaru rack shaft have a different spline count.

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I changed the fluid to an Autopar power steering fluid and the noise is gone. It is now completely silent. I have been driving around all day this P/S system is great. Lots of road feedback too.

Definitely worth all the time and effort.

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The rack and pump I used are from a ’98 Impreza.

There is a part number change from 2001 and 2003. I don’t know why for sure. I think it might have something to do with the speed sensing pump.

For the tie rods, you can use the ZX inners ( p/n EV 164) and two right side outers from an early Z but you will have to drill and thread the rack ends.

I chose to cut metric threads on the Subaru inner tie rods as the EV 164’s were unattainable and use the stock Z tie rods. Use the EV 164 parts if you can get them. It’s an easier way to go.

For reference my car is a ‘71

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Dot,

I used the same tie rods as you and would have to say I would have a machine shop drill and tap the rack if I had it to do over again. Hard metal!! but it turned out OK. I did some checking of my factory service manual and it calls for DEXRON yes DEXRON (that is how it is spelled in the manual) III fluid. Hope that helps but sounds like you have it figured out. Thanks for the info. Mark

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Hey Mark:

I have to thank you for posting the pics of your P/S swap a while back. It saved me a lot of fabrication time. Those were the “blue prints“ I needed to get the swap done…Thanks.

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Guest 2slo4u

Just wondering why you guys changed over to the sub. rack? Does it respond quicker than the zx? Is it smaller or lighter? Just curious. Maybe if my impreza bites the dust, I'll keep the rack.

 

81zxturbo

95slobaru impreza

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Glen,

Glad to hear I was able to help you. Makes me feel better knowing what I'm working on will work.

 

I'm using the Sub rack because it is very close in size and mounting points as the stock rack. I'm old :D and need PS and it is very quick when compared to the stock rack.

 

Mark

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Thanks for the pics, however I was under the impression the crossmember did not need to be cut to fit the subaru rack, yet you have cut it in several places. The one that would be the biggest concern to me is the chunk taken out of the engine mount support.

 

Also I wonder how crucial the actual positioning of the rack is from left to right in relation to the steering system geometry?

 

Thanks

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