Bartman Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 I got most of my front suspension reinstalled, and I started installing the 'Typical 4x4 Z Vented Front Brake Package' fron Modern Motorsports with calipers I won on eBay. I must say the kit seems to be of high quality and includes everything I need. Here's a shot of my current progress: Does it look like I did everything correctly? The bleeder screw is on the top of the caliper, and this seemed to be the only way to install the included stainless braided brake line (the adapter is screwed directly into the back of the caliper and I bypassed the mounting tab on the strut). A short instruction sheet would have been nice, but it does seem to go together fairly easily. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted February 20, 2005 Share Posted February 20, 2005 That looks fine. Move the hubs "lock to lock" and make sure the line isn't close to touching anything, then install a wheel and tire and make sure it isn't rubbing anywhere, again thru the full range of movement. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianV8Z Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Looks good. I had to change the position of the brake line elbow that comes out of the caliper so the steel braided line would not rub on the tire at full lock. Brian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
violacleff Posted February 21, 2005 Share Posted February 21, 2005 Hey bartman, how long did the shipment take from the time you ordered it? I'm thinking of ordering the kvr brake pads if I can get'em quick enough Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 Hey bartman, how long did the shipment take from the time you ordered it? I'm thinking of ordering the kvr brake pads if I can get'em quick enoughI don't recall the shipping time, but I'm thinking a week or two. I ordered a bunch of stuff while my car was apart, and now that my engine bay is painted I'm installing everything. Hopefully I'll have it running within a couple of weeks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
frank280zx Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 Could you have the right left and vise versa, resulting in the bleeder to be on top ( a frined of mine did that once, and was bleeding his brakes for the better part of teh day before he ( or actually Xander) discovered! anyway looks really ... well aftermarket and cool !! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 Could you have the right left and vise versa, resulting in the bleeder to be on top ( a frined of mine did that once, and was bleeding his brakes for the better part of teh day before he ( or actually Xander) discovered! anyway looks really ... well aftermarket and cool !!Well that's one of the things I want to make sure I'm doing correctly. I thought that the bleeder screws were supposed to be on the top. Am I mistaken? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
auxilary Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 May I suggest painting the calipers? I didn't do mine, and the aftermath wasn't pretty - unless you like rust colored calipers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jt1 Posted February 22, 2005 Share Posted February 22, 2005 The bleeder screws should always be on top, on both sides. Otherwise air in the caliper would be trapped, and you would never get a firm pedal no matter how much you bleed them. John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 22, 2005 Author Share Posted February 22, 2005 May I suggest painting the calipers? I didn't do mine, and the aftermath wasn't pretty - unless you like rust colored calipers I saw a picture of your brake install in another thread, and it looks very similar to mine and I thought mine already had some type of protective coating. I guess they're not protected so I will take your advice and paint them as I wasn't planning on including rust in my final color scheme;) . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randy 77zt Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 i use that set up on my 280z with turbo engine.rotors are drilled and i use porterfield r4 pads .car is used for open track days.no problems with the brakes even on over 100 degree weather.some times i out run trailered in race cars so you know what kind of torture that is.on the rear i use a design products 2 piston willwood set up with 84 300zx rear rotor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest zfan Posted February 23, 2005 Share Posted February 23, 2005 That is good to hear as that set up is the exact set up I am installing this weekend. Parts are suppose to be here tomorrow. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 28, 2005 Author Share Posted February 28, 2005 I need to plumb my new brakes. In addition to the front brake upgrade I have disks in the rear, an upgraded master cylinder, and a proportioning valve. Because everything has changed I need to figure out what I can still use and what I have to change. My car is a 73 so it had two valves on the brake lines (both of them were located in the engine bay of the car). One was a proportioning valve and I'm not sure about the other one (maybe just a switch for the brake light?). I will remove the proportioning one, but I'm not sure about the other one. If it's doesn't do any proportioning and it's what makes the brake lights work; I should probably keep it. I also need to figure out how to split the front brake line into two to go to each wheel. What should I use for this and where can I get it? Thanks, Bart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Georgia Flash Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Hey Bartman, Will you have to run spacers for the front wheels? If you do have to use spacers are you going to a longer wheel stud? It looks like that massive brake caliper will stick out past the hub. Of course that maybe just the picture angle that I am looking at. Sweet looking set up I may to invest in the same thing. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 28, 2005 Author Share Posted February 28, 2005 Hey Bartman' date=' Will you have to run spacers for the front wheels? If you do have to use spacers are you going to a longer wheel stud? It looks like that massive brake caliper will stick out past the hub. Of course that maybe just the picture angle that I am looking at. Sweet looking set up I may to invest in the same thing.[/quote']I am using Modern Motorsports adaptors, and you're probably correct that I would have problems if I didn't. Take a look at this link from MM, they don't require longer wheel studs. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=6&PHPSESSID=8a2ba09f8618e69d16fc098a81d5fef3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 28, 2005 Author Share Posted February 28, 2005 From another thread, Tim has a similar setup to what I will be using: I am using a 15/16th master with the wilwood adj. valve plumbed into the rear brake line. Car isn't on the road' date=' so I can't tell you how well it works, but I can't see any issues with it. I have the front brakes plumbed directly to the master, using a T-Block to split the lines to the left and right (same type of T-block as is used at the rear where the lines split to go the each side.)Tim[/quote']Where can I get this T-Block? Is there a generic one that I can easily get my hands on, or is this a special item I'm going to need to order? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mikelly Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 Victoria Brittish and MSA sell the Tblock that bolts in at the rear of the car, splitting the rear left and right side... Get a couple of those Ts and to away with the valves and lines below the master and on the firewall... Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tim240z Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 From another thread' date=' Tim has a similar setup to what I will be using: Where can I get this T-Block? Is there a generic one that I can easily get my hands on, or is this a special item I'm going to need to order?[/quote'] Go to the JY and pull one from a Z, ZX or just about any metric car. The ZX has one on the driver's side frame rail and in the rear.......cheapest and easiest.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarnut Posted February 28, 2005 Share Posted February 28, 2005 My brake pedal was too soft (for me, that is) after I changed out my earlier Toyota calipers for these later ones. These calipers have four "large" pistons rather then the earlier ones that use two "large" pistons and two "small" pistons. Result: more piston area. This forced me to upgrade to a 1" diameter master cylinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bartman Posted February 28, 2005 Author Share Posted February 28, 2005 Victoria Brittish and MSA sell the Tblock that bolts in at the rear of the car' date=' splitting the rear left and right side... Get a couple of those Ts and to away with the valves and lines below the master and on the firewall... Mike[/quote']I just called MSA and they told me they don't carry them, and they thought I could get one from any parts store. Go to the JY and pull one from a Z, ZX or just about any metric car. The ZX has one on the driver's side frame rail and in the rear.......cheapest and easiest....I'll do the JY hunt if I need to (or they're expensive); but I'd rather just buy one new. This seems like it would be such a simple little part. Would this work, it's only $13.41? http://www.appletree-online.com/Product.asp?iProductID=99181 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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