75280z Posted April 19, 2005 Share Posted April 19, 2005 Ok this is a great guide to use to swap the turbo engine out and to the other one, is it posible for this to be a sticky so other people can benfit from the hard work pu into making this? thank you so much man helped a ton hopefully i will get my car running today or tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest robs76 Posted April 25, 2005 Share Posted April 25, 2005 does anyone have updated pics of the swap with a 83 or so harness,,underdash engine bay thanks, Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blairjj Posted May 4, 2005 Share Posted May 4, 2005 Hello, I just bought an '83 ZXT parts car. I have pulled the harness and I have found a few differences between the guide and what I have. I'm willing to take pictures and help update the guide. I'm going to go through the guide this weekend with the harness in front of me. I'll document any differences and report back. Thanks for the headstart! Jay Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted July 25, 2005 Share Posted July 25, 2005 Hi All, Great write up so far. I have an 82 turbo motor in my 77 280Z but it still has the 77 N/A ECU and wiring harness. I am getting ready to put in the 82 harness/dist/ECU/AFM and am willing to provide bumble zee pictures and information to make this sticky and his web site better. My only concern is in how to wire the fuel pump?? So if any of you guys have some good info on that part of the wiring please let me know. Thanks HB280ZT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HB280ZT Posted September 2, 2005 Share Posted September 2, 2005 Hi All, Well after a little thinking I wired up the fuel pump without any problems. I also got a good green lite on the ECU but I never got any fire!!! So I checked and cleaned all of my connections and even replaced the ignitor with a new one from my local parts house and still no fire. I posted a write up here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103683 hopefully someone can tell me what to try when I do this again. I will do this again because my car ran poorly when I raced it at Roebling Roads Raceway in Georgia the other day. Bad enough that a very tired stock 77 280Z could keep up with me all the way around the track and in the corners they could pass me so I had to let them pass in the passing areas. So I really need your help to get this thing of mine running on the 82 turbo Z ECU and wiring harness. HB280ZT Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble zee Posted September 13, 2005 Author Share Posted September 13, 2005 I have replied to your question at the link you posted above. Does anyone have any 82 and 83 write-ups?? I am very interested in seeing the difference. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 8, 2006 Share Posted July 8, 2006 I will have some pictures of an '83 turbo harness but I'm putting it into a 1982 280ZX NA. I do have a question though; why can't you just run power to the NA coil. + and - on the coil and then start the engine? What is so special about this little black box by the turbo coil? ...will the turbo distributor get fried if you run the NA style coil? ...or is it just about getting a tach signal to the dash? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble zee Posted July 11, 2006 Author Share Posted July 11, 2006 That little black thing as you call it is the trigger. A NA car has a seperate ignition system totally different than the turbo's. The turbos ignition is in the ecu its self. How it works; The CAS reads a wheel on the crank, or a chopper wheel in the distributor depending on your year. The ECU reads the signal coming from the CAS. To fire the spark to the coil, the ecu grounds itself sending a signal to the trigger to fire the coil. N/A have transistor ignitions Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BleachZee Posted July 12, 2006 Share Posted July 12, 2006 thanks for the explanation. That makes sense. I've got the '83 ECU so it has the dizzy CAS. I did end up wiring in the turbo coil wires and it worked perfect. It wasn't as hard as I thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble zee Posted July 12, 2006 Author Share Posted July 12, 2006 Good! Glad to see you got it to work. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmike280z Posted January 23, 2008 Share Posted January 23, 2008 Ok, so I am doing 83 turbo swap in my 76. I got her wired up and hooked up fuel lines and I just couldn't stand it, I had to see if she would fire....WOW! a strong steady rumble....Oh no! she wont shut off with key (panic hits) Lets see? ... no coolant, no exhaust, loose wires everywhere... OUCH! as I pull the coil wire... Dam that was cool!... now just got to figure which switched power wire is hooked up to a constant hot (this is my best guess anyway) ... Any Ideas would be great thanx. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mcmike280z Posted February 3, 2008 Share Posted February 3, 2008 Beware the run on! found my problem. zx internal voltage regulator reacting to my external one still in the stock harness of my 76 caused the constant hot to the coil. I hear that you can disconnect the stock regulator and hook up a diode or two and then use the higher amp zx alternator. I switched back for now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble zee Posted February 11, 2008 Author Share Posted February 11, 2008 You have to unplug the external regulator and jumper some pins and install a diode on the return charge wire. I will take some pictures tomorrow of my setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble zee Posted February 20, 2008 Author Share Posted February 20, 2008 Picture of the internal regulated alternator jumper wires Red to Red, and Blue to Blue I have the diode taped off, but it is in the yellow with blue striped wire I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeerari Posted September 1, 2008 Share Posted September 1, 2008 Hey guys, I'm in the middle of my 82 turbo swap so I will try my best to fill in the blanks for those of you using an 82/83 harness. Most of the info above applies so I won't rewrite everything (though I might do a complete write-up on my website... stay tuned). First off, this harness has no dropping resistors so ignore that plug mentioned above. Second, here is a shot of the 8-pin (not 6-pin like the 81 harness) plug that connects the ignition harness to the ECU harness. We will only be using 3 of these 7 (8th pin is empty) wires. They are: Black -> ground Yellow -> Ignition switch (see Jon's diagram above) Yellow/White -> Coil (do not cut! this is the horizontal yellow wire you can see heading into the harness) Next we have the coil end of the ignition harness. This is up near the driver side headlight. From left to right we have: Green/Black and Black twisted -> Headlight washer (not used) Blue/White, Green, Black -> Boost sensor 3-pin connector (not used) Black/White -> Condenser on coil bracket Blue -> To coil (will feed your tach, more on that later) Yellow/White and Black/White -> Coil 2-pin connector (this is the yellow/white leading to the 8-pin connector) And here is a wide shot showing the whole ignition harness after removal. As previously mentioned, the long yellow wire at the top (next to green/blue wire on the plug) goes to START 12V, the black wire (you can cut off that shield and gray jacket) goes to ground, the green wire coming out of the resistor goes to your tach, and the black/white wire goes to switched 12V. The wires that are cut short and twisted together will not be used. I am going to pull the harness apart and remove these instead of leaving a bunch of cut wires everywhere. NOTE: A keen eye will notice there are 2 black/white wires going in on the left but only one coming out on the right. They are spliced inside the harness! Amazing, I know. Ok, enough of the spark, let's move to fuel! Here is the fuel pump relay harness still installed in the vehicle. The 6-pin connector plugs into the ECU harness and this relay simply turns the fuel pump on and off. We will be using all the wires on the relay socket but not the yellow or white wires on the harness connector. See next pic for clarification on this. Here is the fuel pump harness removed from the car. From left to right: Connector: Yellow and white wires -> unused as already mentioned Black/white -> switched power (this turns on your EFI relay) Relay: Green -> To fuel pump White/black -> Constant 12V Black -> Ground I have a few more pics that I'll stick in a gallery but I think this should cover it. I can't tell you exactly where to find these plugs since my car already had the dash ripped out but consider yourself sufficiently spoon fed Also, I haven't even done the swap yet so I reserve the right to be wrong! Please correct me if you think something is out of place. I'm planning to have this fired up by next weekend so we'll know for sure by then Can anybody confirm or deny whether the green/blue wire on the 8-pin plug must be grounded? It's supposedly for the inhibitor but I don't exactly know what that means. I see it leading to an ECU pin in the wiring diagram but that's all I can see. I guess if you're reading this, go ahead and ground that too... shouldn't hurt anything. I'll update the write-up if we get confirmation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thetremendoustim Posted December 27, 2008 Share Posted December 27, 2008 I have been trying to figure out my wiring for quite a while now, a few months, (schooling in between) and I'm still at square one which you can all imagine is very very VERY disheartening. I'm always scared that someone has asked this question, but since it's being addressed and I've grown tired of staring at wiring diagrams for literally days I might as well ask it. It is concerning ignition... I have read all the writeups on hybrid, zdriver and even yadamnfool's write up, haynes, etc... Hey guys, I'm in the middle of my 82 turbo swap so I will try my best to fill in the blanks for those of you using an 82/83 harness. Most of the info above applies so I won't rewrite everything (though I might do a complete write-up on my website... stay tuned). First off, this harness has no dropping resistors so ignore that plug mentioned above. Second, here is a shot of the 8-pin (not 6-pin like the 81 harness) plug that connects the ignition harness to the ECU harness. We will only be using 3 of these 7 (8th pin is empty) wires. They are: Black -> ground Yellow -> Ignition switch (see Jon's diagram above) Yellow/White -> Coil (do not cut! this is the horizontal yellow wire you can see heading into the harness) Okay I have something like this but it looks like this the previous owner has the white and the yellow wires already spliced off so all that's left are the black, green and B/R wires. I just plugged them into the male part which was right next to it although the white and yellow wires on the male part are NOT spliced but are still coming from inside the harness..I hope this is right.. Next we have the coil end of the ignition harness. This is up near the driver side headlight. From left to right we have: Green/Black and Black twisted -> Headlight washer (not used) Blue/White, Green, Black -> Boost sensor 3-pin connector (not used) Black/White -> Condenser on coil bracket Blue -> To coil (will feed your tach, more on that later) Yellow/White and Black/White -> Coil 2-pin connector (this is the yellow/white leading to the 8-pin connector) ...I have nothing that resembles this and the closest thing that I can think that you are referring to are these wires... And here is a wide shot showing the whole ignition harness after removal. As previously mentioned, the long yellow wire at the top (next to green/blue wire on the plug) goes to START 12V, the black wire (you can cut off that shield and gray jacket) goes to ground, the green wire coming out of the resistor goes to your tach, and the black/white wire goes to switched 12V. The wires that are cut short and twisted together will not be used. I am going to pull the harness apart and remove these instead of leaving a bunch of cut wires everywhere. NOTE: A keen eye will notice there are 2 black/white wires going in on the left but only one coming out on the right. They are spliced inside the harness! Amazing, I know. Ok, enough of the spark, let's move to fuel! Here is the fuel pump relay harness still installed in the vehicle. The 6-pin connector plugs into the ECU harness and this relay simply turns the fuel pump on and off. We will be using all the wires on the relay socket but not the yellow or white wires on the harness connector. See next pic for clarification on this. Again, I have no six pin connectors or 8 pin connectors besides the aforementioned ones in the first picture that have the white and yellow wires spliced. <-- so disheartening... Here is the fuel pump harness removed from the car. From left to right: Connector: Yellow and white wires -> unused as already mentioned Black/white -> switched power (this turns on your EFI relay) Relay: Green -> To fuel pump White/black -> Constant 12V Black -> Ground I do have something that is familiar to this though!! Today I found that green thing labeled "FR" and I realized it's the Fuel Relay! or maybe the previous owner, Franklin Rossmore, had possession issues nevertheless I have two of those black box shaped plugs I put the Green Fuel relay ( i'm hoping and thinking that's what it is) on the end that is coming from the harness...if that makes any sense, either way it was 50/50 and I"m pretty sure I guessed right. I have a few more pics that I'll stick in a gallery but I think this should cover it. I can't tell you exactly where to find these plugs since my car already had the dash ripped out but consider yourself sufficiently spoon fed Also, I haven't even done the swap yet so I reserve the right to be wrong! Please correct me if you think something is out of place. I'm planning to have this fired up by next weekend so we'll know for sure by then Can anybody confirm or deny whether the green/blue wire on the 8-pin plug must be grounded? It's supposedly for the inhibitor but I don't exactly know what that means. I see it leading to an ECU pin in the wiring diagram but that's all I can see. I guess if you're reading this, go ahead and ground that too... shouldn't hurt anything. I'll update the write-up if we get confirmation. I hope I am on the right track, if someone could point me in the right direction, my real question is concerning the ignition coil. Here's what mine looks like I have no idea where the wires from the trigger go, (the little black box) they are yellow/white and black/white but I'm pretty sure they have to do with power and harness I'm just really confused because then there's an alternate plug that isn't discussed in any readups I've read or any diagrams i have and it's this plug it comes off the +/- terminals on the coil and they are colored black/white and yellow and they come together into a male end of a plug (it's off to the left of the picture) I'm very lost and Losing time fast! I have to move the car this weekend and then I won't be able to work on it until summer because of the lanlord So i want to be able to get all the wiring done while it's still in my memory. Any help is appreciated, ANY! Thank you so much! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bumble zee Posted January 6, 2009 Author Share Posted January 6, 2009 Zeerari awesome addition to this topic!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zeerari Posted January 7, 2009 Share Posted January 7, 2009 Bumble Zee: Thanks! Tim: You might want to start a new thread in the turbo forum since you are apparently dealing with some custom wiring. You'll get more visibility that way. Did you make any progress? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oddmanout84 Posted January 21, 2009 Share Posted January 21, 2009 Awesome! I'm saving this thread for when I begin to sort out my harness! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DuoWing Posted July 29, 2009 Share Posted July 29, 2009 I know this is a little old, but I wanted to ask a quick question. I'm wiring up my turbo motor in my 76' I have an 83' harness. I've got everything pretty much figured except for the wire on the Fuel Pump Relay. I see that I run the one wire into the fuel pump. I've found that there's a green w/blue striped wire that runs from the fuel pump, up front into the fuse box and elsewhere. Anyway should I just cut this wire before it branches off and run it into my Fuel Pump Relay or should I splice into this wire. Leave it hooked up, but then just add another branch off for my FPR? That's all I need. Thanks for this thread though. It's been awesomely helpful! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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