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Brake booster/master cylinder options on a 73' 240z?


Guest 73Turbo240z

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Picked up both parts and installed them today. A few notes on fitment:

 

-The pushrod that connects to the brake pedal was too long for my 1977, I had to chop the end of it (twice, because I didn't want to chop too much) to get it to fit. 

-The neck or whatever of the booster didn't *quite* want to fit into the hole in my firewall. It was seizing on the top, so I filed out the edge of the hole there a bit and also the brake booster neck a touch, and everything fit alright. As someone noted earlier, the neck/pushrod isn't directly centered in the four bolts that go through the firewall, but it looks to be located in nearly the same spot as the stock one was anyway.

-The brake line connections for this Tacoma master cylinder are located on the side and not the bottom, which means I need to run fresh lines. Thankfully, these are short runs to the junction just below, so it's nbd.

 

A few pictures after install (yes I know I need hose clamps on those vacuum lines between the booster and vacuum pump)

 

SV3W4gI.jpg

 

Cgj6NrF.jpg

 

oG0eFIy.jpg

Edited by bawfuls
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I am not sure, it didn't occur to me to try swapping those push rods, in part because I gave my busted old Z booster to Oreilly for a $30 core refund when I bought the Tacoma booster. Chopping it with an angle grinder was pretty easy and quick. The main headache was fitting it into the car, realizing it needed to be chopped, removing it, etc. If I knew from the get go that it needed to be about 1" shorter that would have saved some time and hassle.

Edited by bawfuls
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2 hours ago, bawfuls said:

I am not sure, it didn't occur to me to try swapping those push rods, in part because I gave my busted old Z booster to Oreilly for a $30 core refund when I bought the Tacoma booster. Chopping it with an angle grinder was pretty easy and quick. The main headache was fitting it into the car, realizing it needed to be chopped, removing it, etc. If I knew from the get go that it needed to be about 1" shorter that would have saved some time and hassle.

 

I Have swaped 240z push rods into after market clutch MCs so they connect to the clutch pedal to avoid modifying the push rod. When I replaced my 240z  booster with a 280z booster there was a problem with the brake pedal clevis attaching to the brake pedal so I swapped the push rods.

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43 minutes ago, seattlejester said:

I'm actually looking for a longer push rod as my current one is on the short side so the pedal has slack. Appreciate you taking the plunge!

 

Same here. Let us know if you find a solution.

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  • 2 months later...
  • 8 months later...
  • 3 months later...

Just for reference for future interested parties.

 

I ordered these parts for my 08/71 240z. They do not fit.  First off which is well

known, the 08/71 booster bolt

pattern is different (anything <08/71 I believe).

 

But more important, this 8.75” booster won’t fit with the clutch master, and also hits the throttle cable linkage bracket.  Rough measurements show an 8” master “might” fit, but I’d expect a little clearancing required.  

 

Edit: after seeing the above post and the 8.5” booster in the photo. I decided to drill the holes and make sure.   Not going to happen.  I’m in the midst of cutting off the throttle linkage bracket, and will offset the booster as much as I can to avoid the clutch master. If you look in the above photo. There is no way they can remove their clutch master without removing the brake booster.  I will most likely make some

sort of offset on the brake pedal itself as well.

Edited by HuD 91gt
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  • 3 months later...
On 12/3/2019 at 3:39 PM, HuD 91gt said:

Just for reference for future interested parties.

 

I ordered these parts for my 08/71 240z. They do not fit.  First off which is well

known, the 08/71 booster bolt

pattern is different (anything <08/71 I believe).

 

But more important, this 8.75” booster won’t fit with the clutch master, and also hits the throttle cable linkage bracket.  Rough measurements show an 8” master “might” fit, but I’d expect a little clearancing required.  

 

Edit: after seeing the above post and the 8.5” booster in the photo. I decided to drill the holes and make sure.   Not going to happen.  I’m in the midst of cutting off the throttle linkage bracket, and will offset the booster as much as I can to avoid the clutch master. If you look in the above photo. There is no way they can remove their clutch master without removing the brake booster.  I will most likely make some

sort of offset on the brake pedal itself as well.

 

Do you have any updates or photos on this? Need a new booster and wanting to upgrade to a bigger unit.

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As described.  Had to notch the booster holes slightly left. Thus hitting the throttle bracket on the firewall. I removed it.   I still don’t think I could run a piece of paper between the clutch master and the booster. Incredibly close.  I also fabricated an offset clevis for the master cylinder rod to align the brake pedal.

 

 

E0272915-AF46-4E72-BC48-F04AF9E65E4C.jpeg

BC2BAC0E-F30A-4C4C-9E82-1FA3FADF288E.jpeg

C91312F1-B37D-4794-9593-0CE5F6F941C7.jpeg

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