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Motor torn down and at machine shop


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Well after scrapping the RB idea as it would have killed my budget and the Trust twin turbo kit not fitting as it's made for a RHD (It's for sale now check classifieds), I'm back to using the parts and motor that I have had on hand for the last 5 years.

 

Here is what I'm having the machine shop do:

 

Block

• Clean/Inspect

• Bore/ Hone “as neededâ€

• Remove phillips screws for block vent screen

• R&R Freeze Plugs

• Magnaflux Main Bearing Bolts 14

• Clean Front Cover and Oil Filter Mounting Plate

• Remove Flywheel Keys

• Clean Oil Pan

 

Crank

• Clean Polish/Balance

• Pull Torque Adapter Plate

• Remove Crank Bolt

• Remove torque plate adapter on tail of crank

• Remove Pilot Shaft Bushing

 

Rods

• Race Prep “balance, magnaflux, peened,

polished

 

Pistons Forged Wisco

• Balance

 

Head

• Clean/ Inspect

• Return for Porting by owner (I may consider Sun Belt for the porting)

• Valve Job

• Remove Locating Dowel

 

Induction

• Custom Intake Manifold

• RC 550cc Injectors

• JSK Fuel Rail

• Custom Exhaust Manifold

• Precision GT Turbo

• Custom 3 Core Intercooler

 

Engine Management

• TEC 3 or SDS

 

Motor Accessories

• Wisco Forged Pistons

• NISMO Adjustable Cam Sprocket

• NISMO Crank Dampner

• Schneider Cam Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 270/260

• Manley Valves

• Clevite Bearing

• ARP Head/Rod Bolts

• HKS 2mm Head Gasket

 

Well this is what I have so far to get me started. My goal is for 400RWHP.

 

Fabrication will be done by Tempest Racing http://tempestracing.com in Waldorf MD.

 

Questions, comments feel free to fire away. I will be ordering all the rebuild parts this week from MSA i.e. gasket set, timing chain kit, cam, ARP fasteners to name a few...

 

I'm so stoked to get this started FINALLY!!!

 

I will get pics of the motor when I dropped it off at the machine shop uploaded tonight..

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so this list of parts you posted you already have?

 

 

All but:

 

 

•Forged Wisco

• Custom Intake Manifold

• RC 550cc Injectors

• Custom Exhaust Manifold

• Precision GT Turbo

• Custom 3 Core Intercooler

• TEC 3 or SDS

• Wisco Forged Pistons

• Schneider Cam Lift(In/Ex): .460/.460. Duration(In/Ex): 270/260

• Manley Valves

• Clevite Bearing

• ARP Head/Rod Bolts

• HKS 2mm Head Gasket

 

 

 

So to answer your question I have lots of parts and money to spend.

 

Here is a break down as to where I'm at this may make some of you sick:

 

Machine Work: $800

Block Parts: $1500

Head: $550 (not including valves, waiting on quote)

Cooling: $300

 

and for the biggie...

Induction: $8300 includes engine management, intake/ exhaust manifold, injectors, turbo, intercooler, bov, wastegate.

 

$11,500 plus addtional B.S. well now I got the money time to have fun for the first time in my life since this car hobby sucked me in...

 

Oh yeah I forgot add another $2500 for paint/body and interior.

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which head are you going to use and (P90?) and what will your C:R be? why did you pick the HKS 2mm head gasket. Also why did you get the schnider 460 270 cam. How much boost are you going to be running? just wondering.

 

Rock on Z people :rockon:

 

Matt-

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so why again can you not to the RB swap?

 

 

I know it doesn't make sense I'm already at the cost of what a stock RB26, SDS, intercooler, trans, injectors, would cost.

 

 

I have so many L parts, I want to go this route. I know I will be happy. With the weight of the 240Z and if I reach my 400RWHP goal what's the point...

 

However, my '79 810 is eyeballing an RB wouldn't that be a sleeper.

 

For now she is getting a suspension make over Koni/Bilstein/Quickor. L28 (up from the L24) and a 5 speed conversion...

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which head are you going to use and (P90?) and what will your C:R be? why did you pick the HKS 2mm head gasket. Also why did you get the schnider 460 270 cam. How much boost are you going to be running? just wondering.

 

Rock on Z people :rockon:

 

Matt-

 

 

Matt,

 

Yea I have a complete early L28ET F54/P90. I went with the 2mm head gasket with flat top pistons and depending on the over bore will yield 7.99:1 - 8.16:1. Max boost I would like is 25 pounds, with 10-15 on the street.

 

My goal is to have the boost kick in around 3500rpm and to be an all around street,drag, and autocross Z. I called around to all the manufacturers and from what research I did Schneider is what people are using and are happy with it. I called Schneider direct and told the guy what I wanted to do with the 240Z and that is his recommendation. I went to MSA site (they use Schneider cams) and they had it listed and in stock. It is $5 cheaper through MSA and I don't have to wait a week to have Schneider make it.

 

Tomorrow will be the first of many big smack downs on parts. First is everything I need to get the motor reassembled. Next will be the rest of the goodies...

 

Joe

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Really... Welcome To My World.

 

Hey Jamie,

 

Well I'm taking the plunge. Last time we talked you were making a custom oil pan. How is that coming, did your business get off the ground yet? See I knew I would get back in the game.

 

Speed costs, how much power do you want equals how much money do you have in the bank to spend it on...

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Your kidding, why would I want his Z? No offence to James but I would rather build my own instead of buying something that someone else did. There are things anyone would want to do different. I think it's more about pride in ownership and knowing that "you" built it and not something that someone else built and you claiming it's glory.

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Yea, don't buy that car...it sucks!

Joe, I saw you listed a GT turbo from Precision? Call me for a good price on a new GT turbo.

 

Joe,

If compression permits ditch the P90 and opt for an E88 or N42 head. Contact TimZ for details on the shop that did his head. 225cfm on the intake ports and he can also help you with a good cam selection. Remember, his car is ~525hp@wheels on 94 octane @23psi.

James

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Yea' date=' don't buy that car...it sucks!

Joe, I saw you listed a GT turbo from Precision? Call me for a good price on a new GT turbo.

 

Joe,

If compression permits ditch the P90 and opt for an E88 or N42 head. Contact TimZ for details on the shop that did his head. 225cfm on the intake ports and he can also help you with a good cam selection. Remember, his car is ~525hp@wheels on 94 octane @23psi.

James[/quote']

 

James,

 

Good to hear from you. Yea that car sucks and the paint is different colors. Remember when you got it painted and I pointed out that the doors were different from the body, *lol* a lot has happened with ol' yellow lightening since. Is it still for sale? How is the RB26DETT AWD S13 coming?

 

I'm using the Nissan L6 Engine Builder as my guide from http://www.zcarclub.com.au/pages/lseries.htm From what I've been told it's a great tool to use.

 

With the P90, HKS 2mm, Flat tops with no over bore C/R is 7.99:1

With the P90, HKS 2mm, Flat tops with .020 over bore C/R is 8.07:1

With the P90, HKS 2mm, Flat tops with .040 over bore C/R is 8.16:1

 

I still don't know what my over bore will be but I heard the standard is between 20 and 40 over.

 

 

Everywhere I have read and searched and the shop that is handling my fabrication says turbo compression 8.00:1 - 8.5:1 is ideal, anything lower than 8.00:1 you need a serious turbo to get you going. Is this a fair statement?

 

I plan on having full boost at 3500rpm and I would like to have 400RWHP at a minimum is this feasible with my current plans?

 

Thanks for the insight, I'll call you up to b.s. later after I get caught up at work.

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Forged slugs good, but prefer Arias. CR 8.5:1. Swaintech coat dome and skirts. O-ring block. Need ECU with more cells...Motec, especially at high boost. If Tec3 then use crank trigger. Add cam trigger for sequential inj. (Anyone on list fabbed?) TIAL wastegate at least 37 mm. 3" exh with Dynomax.

I had no luck with that cam....not for street, had 3" Hg vac at idle at soggy below 3500, but have 3.5 cc unshroud from each chamber. Even tried 260° durn and got only 9 " Hg. HP down also. Have data if interested. Got 435 RWHP on my DynoJet at 20 psi boost with Racer Brown 246/226 @ 0.050 grind. Ask Frank at Schneider about that profile as I'm sure he has it from when I had my bumps repair welded.

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Forged slugs good' date=' but prefer Arias. CR 8.5:1. Swaintech coat dome and skirts. O-ring block. Need ECU with more cells...Motec, especially at high boost. If Tec3 then use crank trigger. Add cam trigger for sequential inj. (Anyone on list fabbed?) TIAL wastegate at least 37 mm. 3" exh with Dynomax.

I had no luck with that cam....not for street, had 3" Hg vac at idle at soggy below 3500, but have 3.5 cc unshroud from each chamber. Even tried 260° durn and got only 9 " Hg. HP down also. Have data if interested. Got 435 RWHP on my DynoJet at 20 psi boost with Racer Brown 246/226 @ 0.050 grind. Ask Frank at Schneider about that profile as I'm sure he has it from when I had my bumps repair welded.[/quote']

 

dapiper,

 

Thanks for the reply, your horsepower levels are right where I want to be. Can you post or PM your specs? I have read up on Swain Coating is it really worth it in your experience? What exactly is O-ringing the block, this is my first build up? What are your thoughts on Isky or go Schneider all the way?

 

 

BTW I will be using TEC 3.

 

Regards,

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