RB26powered74zcar Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 Jamie' date=' i think the accusump system is a great idea, i to am planning to use one of these on my RB, good for prestart lube, but more importantly (i think) is the ability to keep pressure in the gallerys if any surge should happen. These things are excellent, and cheap insurance.[/quote'] I just bought this one to use along with my Jun oil pump. It's the marine version, thats all stainless & brass, with the electrical valve. I think $349 shipped is a good price.... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=7925368293&fromMakeTrack=true#ebayphotohosting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dat240zg Posted May 26, 2005 Share Posted May 26, 2005 I'm a stranger to RB issues, but have been tossing the idea around of an oil cooler of some sort. I know that several people are using the C&R radiators. Anyone have one that has the oil cooler incorporated into the side? I'm looking at one now and it looks promising. Bryan Dat240zg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Matt, I have a good question for ya.... While James was over fri. and we were discussing what to do on a oil pan, we got to looking at the new oil pump I will be changing out from the new nissan pump I have on the motor now, and found that on the uprated pump, it comes with the oil passages tapped and plugged with alum hex head plugs, allowing for external access to the oiling system. I noticed that these passages have a freeze plug in the regular oem oil pumps, instead of hex head removable plugs.... Have you seen these before? We think this will make installing a alum pan, with a pick up made to lay on the bottom of the pan, with baffling of course, and a fitting to come out the side of the pan, to connect to the tapped fitting off the side of the oil pump, a peice of cake. I realize the matching hole in the block, that runs to the oem pick up tube will have to be blocked off now that the oil is being pulled from the new external line. Does this make any sense to you?? thanks- joel Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Not one the subject of the oil system... Joel, James has done an amazing job on your car. You both should be proud of it. Lots of hard work has gone into it. I can't wait to see it finished. I HOPE mine is so nice. Good job! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 C&R radiators. Anyone have one that has the oil cooler incorporated into the side? Used to have a custom C&R/Visteon with a Niagra heat exchanger. I have the design drawings if you want them to make another. Figure about $1,100.00. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted June 5, 2005 Share Posted June 5, 2005 Used to have a custom C&R/Visteon with a Niagra heat exchanger. I have the design drawings if you want them to make another. Figure about $1' date='100.00.[/quote'] As neat as this may sound, the price isn't really efficient. Figure a radiator in the 200-300 range and an oil cooler in the 100-200 range, $1100 is a pretty penny. If I had money I would go for it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Matt' date=' I have a good question for ya.... While James was over fri. and we were discussing what to do on a oil pan, we got to looking at the new oil pump I will be changing out from the new nissan pump I have on the motor now, and found that on the uprated pump, it comes with the oil passages tapped and plugged with alum hex head plugs, allowing for external access to the oiling system.I noticed that these passages have a freeze plug in the regular oem oil pumps, instead of hex head removable plugs.... Have you seen these before? We think this will make installing a alum pan, with a pick up made to lay on the bottom of the pan, with baffling of course, and a fitting to come out the side of the pan, to connect to the tapped fitting off the side of the oil pump, a peice of cake. I realize the matching hole in the block, that runs to the oem pick up tube will have to be blocked off now that the oil is being pulled from the new external line. Does this make any sense to you?? thanks- joel[/quote'] Yea, that's a great idea. I, for one, don't trust custom fabricated pick-ups in the engine as they have a tendancy to crack (spelling possible disaster for the motor) when not properly welded and braced. Just ensure the external hose is of adequate size. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 6, 2005 Share Posted June 6, 2005 Yea, that's a great idea. I, for one, don't trust custom fabricated pick-ups in the engine as they have a tendancy to crack (spelling possible disaster for the motor) when not properly welded and braced. Just ensure the external hose is of adequate size. Thanks Matt, I will use the largest dia. AN fitting that will fit. The only problem I have noticed so far is, that dam A/C comp bracket being in the way.... it's allways in the way of something... haha, but I GOT TO HAVE IT !! I will try to drill a hole thru the A/C bracket to allow access to the tapped oil passage on the new pump. In the pic below, it will be the hole on the driver side that I want to use for drawing oil from the pan. I will need to either tap and block off the pick up hole on the block, or better yet, I think, is to take the pump in to a machine shop and have a recess milled into the supply hole, slightly larger, and shallow, to where I can epoxy a flat washer into the recess to keep the pump from trying to draw oil from that area of the block, and instead draw it thru the removed tapped plug and thru the new pick up in the pan..... Whata ya think about that idea??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 I would tap the outlet in the block that buts up to the pump, and install a threaded plug (just like the oil galleys). There's no pressure. All you're doing is preventing air from leaking into the vacuum created by the pump. Your way will work too, but I would be concerned about the washer coming loose and developing an air leak. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Could you weld a plug in the hole in the pump? This is interesting. I'm looking at mine right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 Could you weld a plug in the hole in the pump? This is interesting. I'm looking at mine right now. Sure, but that pump Joel has is probably around $1500. I wouldn't do anything that's non-reversable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RB26powered74zcar Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 I belive any one can take any of the oil pumps and remove the freeze plugs from them, then tap for fittings.... Just so happens this one was bought slightly used, and may have had that done by the PO. Do you know if any of them come tapped and plugged new Matt?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 If anyone wants to know, I can take pictures of my brand new N1 pump. But if it's a JUN or HKS pump it might not be of any use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KAZU Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 That's exactly I was thinking, but I'll weld a -12 AN fitting and machine the backside to remove distortion caused by heat. I think ID of 3/8NPT adaptor is too small and there isn't enough meat for 1/2NPT tapping. Kazu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 That's exactly I was thinking' date=' but I'll weld a -12 AN fitting and machine the backside to remove distortion caused by heat. I think ID of 3/8NPT adaptor is too small and there isn't enough meat for 1/2NPT tapping.[/quote'] That's what I am thinking. I am looking at my OE pump and it doesn't appear to be enough meat to thread a 1/2" NPT into. That's the size I would use minimum. The OE pick-up tube is about 5/8" ID, or so it looks without measuring it. I would rather not go smaller than that. I think you can get away with -10 AN as that is right at about 5/8" ID if memory serves me correctly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted June 7, 2005 Share Posted June 7, 2005 This is why this forum is awesome! We have some smart mofo's on this board. You can't find this anywhere else. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Also while on the subject... I am looking at the oil filter relocators. The fitting size on the ones readily available are 3/8"FPT. How does that compare to NPT? IMHO, 3/8" is not big enough for oil flow in a cooler, or whatever else you'd want to plumb in your oil system like the accusump. Any other opinions? I haven't found one in summit or jegs that has 1/2" fittings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
240Z_Master Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 I thought that oil coolers are usually -12AN... What does that equal? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cheftrd Posted June 10, 2005 Share Posted June 10, 2005 Also while on the subject... I am looking at the oil filter relocators. The fitting size on the ones readily available are 3/8"FPT. How does that compare to NPT? IMHO, 3/8" is not big enough for oil flow in a cooler, or whatever else you'd want to plumb in your oil system like the accusump. Any other opinions? I haven't found one in summit or jegs that has 1/2" fittings. AN size is -10. 3/8 FPT is actually quite a bit larger then 3/8" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest JAMIE T Posted June 19, 2005 Share Posted June 19, 2005 Here is my oil pan I'm fabbing up for my RB26 swap. I designed it with the cross-member in place with Rick Wongs mounts. I made the sump start alittle rearward so it can be installed on the motor before the engine is installed in the car. The rack and cross member have good clearance. I tacked it together with the pulse on pulse MIG and will TIG it from here. I had the flange waterjet out of 3/8" 6061. I'm happy with the progress so far. I may be tempted to make a few more of these if there is interest. Oh, BTW check out the classifieds for my spare motor forsale, cheap. edit: I forgot to mention, I'm plumbing it with the external oil pick-up and baffling it to keep the oil where it belongs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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