Is anyone installing a external oil cooler?

[RB26powered74zcar]

I belive any one can take any of the oil pumps and remove the freeze plugs from them' date=' then tap for fittings....

Just so happens this one was bought slightly used, and may have had that done by the PO.

 

Do you know if any of them come tapped and plugged new Matt??

 

[img']http://album.hybridz.org/data/566/medium/Oil_pump_side_feed_mod.jpg[/img]

 

That's exactly I was thinking' date=' but I'll weld a -12 AN fitting and machine the backside to remove distortion caused by heat.

I think ID of 3/8NPT adaptor is too small and there isn't enough meat for 1/2NPT tapping.

 

Kazu[/quote']

 

 

 

 

The fitting shown in my pic of the pump has a -10x 1/2 pipe thread, but I will use -12 x 1/2 fittings. The pump is threaded to a 1/2" pipe size already, which belive will be suffcient...

 

Any other fresh ideas on this subject??

[Guest JAMIE T]

That's cool your pump is threaded for 1/2" NPT. Sure beats welding a bung on it! There is definately not enough room to tap 1/2" NPT on a stock pump, so your JUN pump must've come that way. I've been super busy with new baby preperations. So I haven't done any "work" on it but I've done a fair amount of research and put alot of thought into the sump and baffling. Here's what I have so far. I'm putting the fitting in the center of my sump on the same side as the oil pump fitting. It's gonna come out of the side of the sump. I have a stick of aluminum piano hinge that I'm going to cut approx. 3" sections (the stick is about 4 feet long) to use as the trap doors. I'm going to remove the pin in the hinge and replace it with something thinner so the hinge can flap freely. Then, I'm going to weld in slats that will act like a windage tray(I know the RB has one already). Not so much to keep the oil off the crank, but to keep the oil in the sump. I want to keep the oil from climbing up the back of the motor on hard launches. I also want to keep it from climbing out the front of the sump on heavy braking. Also, I'll epeoxy some screen in front of the pick-up to keep debris from getting sucked in it. Oh, -10 is larger than 1/2" so do you really think it's necessary to use -12?

[KAZU]

For comparison, pic of normal pump. The tap showing is 1/2 NPT.

 

JAMIE T,

I measured ID of two weld bangs.

-10 AN: 1/2"

-12 AN: 5/8"

In my last post, I put wrong numbers.

I noticed that ID of Earl's -10 AN fitting is 5/8" but ID of its hose is smaller. Sharp edge of the fitting seems to cut into the hose wall. Aeroquip' date=' XRP and Goodridge may have gotten different design.[/quote']

For those who are going to order the weld bangs, please be sure it is -12 AN.

I also checked the Earl's fittings and hoses. I noticed the fact that the hose ID is identical to that of corresponding fittings.

 

Kazu

[Guest JAMIE T]

Awesome, Thanks for the update. I'll be sure to use -12's on mine. I measured the stock pick-up ID and it's .650". That's .025" bigger than 5/8". I'm not gonna to sweat .025". But, I'm not gonna trust it to -10 either. Thanks for clearing that up. I haven't had time to mess with mine in a couple of days. I will probably work on it today.

[Guest JAMIE T]

 

So I worked on the pan today and this is where I'm at. I haven't welded the tray in yet since I don't want to lock it up until I've got the pick-up weld bung in place. Theoretically, since the pick-up is coming from below the tray, I could have covered the sump completely, just leaving enough holes for the oil to drain back. Which, I still may do. I put three trap doors in. The flange is nice and flat. I hope to get the -12AN weld bungs next week to finish-up this project. Then on to the next.

[S15 200sx owner]

Thats looking good JT, whats the capacity of your sump?

[Guest JAMIE T]

About 6.5 quarts. That is just the sump, not the filter, oil cooler, lines, 3 qt. Accusump, etc... Sorry, I don't know how many liters that is. In that respect, I'm metrically challanged.

[johnc]

You're going to need more holes to allow the oil to drain back into the sump to keep from having an oil foaming problem.

[Guest JAMIE T]

Thanks for the tip John. Care to explain oil foaming?

[karay240]

Oil foaming is where the crank whippes up the oil like whipped ceam. This happens when there's not enough clearance b/w the crank and the pan. It can cause a reduction in power; however, the worst part of it is that you can get the foam sucked into the pickup. Engines don't like air bubles in the oil. It tends to lead to a blown engine.

 

 

Kenny

http://www.rbmotoring.com

[Guest JAMIE T]

So, would that be a problem on an RB26? The crank is pretty far up in the block and the OE windage tray is pretty nice. The crank is about 1.5" away from the sump. I'll put more holes in the tray if I need to. I'm not argueing with anyone, just asking questions.

[stony]

If I remember right what happens is the oil gets foamed up and it also acts like a tornado and draw the oil out of the pan. Once this happens you start starving the motor of oil and boom. I know track RBs get seriously worked over in the oil system department so they will survive road course abuse.

 

Good example is that duralube or whatever demo you see in schucks. in the that clear box with the gears. If you turn if fast it draws up oil out of the bottem. If you can amagine it going 8000RPM well you get the picture.

[Guest JAMIE T]

 

Here is my pump with the original hole sealed up. I cut a plug out and welded it in place and checked it for flatness. It's good. Not I need to weld the bung on. More pics to come.

[RB26powered74zcar]

 

Here is my pump with the original hole sealed up. I cut a plug out and welded it in place and checked it for flatness. It's good. Not I need to weld the bung on. More pics to come.

 

Thats my next hurdle to get over Jamie.... I was going to tap and plug the block' date=' but I don't like the idea of shavings getting in the oil galley.

 

Here are a couple pics of what I did today. I will use a 90 deg instead of the strait fitting, and that should clear everything....

 

Click on the thumbnail;

 

 

 

[RB26powered74zcar]

 

Here is my pump with the original hole sealed up. I cut a plug out and welded it in place and checked it for flatness. It's good. Not I need to weld the bung on. More pics to come.

 

Well' date=' as you can see, I didn't go the weld up the hole route. What I was able to do is tap for a 3/8 npt, and put a alum plug into the pick up hole....

 

CLICK

[Guest JAMIE T]

 

Here is the finished oil pump mod. -12AN weld bung TIG welded in place. I need to button up the oil pump with some locktite and it'll be done. I'm waiting on some fittings to plumb the oil pan. we'll see how that goes in a few days. Dig the cast-iron paint(hi-temp engine paint), the pump wasn't new and needed alittle sprucing up, even after a super cleaning. The cleaner we use STRIPS all of the oxidation off leaving a raw alum surface. Great for welding and prepping for paint, but bad for leaving it shiny, as it just oxidizes that much faster when left to the elements. It's only a problem with castings though.

 

Also, I might add I did some research and the oil filter takes a standard 3/4-16 thread and any of the basic filter relocator kits for a ford will fit. The O-ring is standard also. The Mr. Gasket relocator kit has 1/2" NPT fittings and the Perma-Cool has 3/8 NPT. I'm passing on both of those and am opting for the Canton filter relocator. They offer one with -12AN lines and is a nice anodized billet piece. It's about $60 for just the filter relocator, not including the remote filter mount, that's another $80 I think. I forget. One could easily have $250 in a oil filter relocation kit once you include lines and fittings. That doesn't include the oil cooler. I'm gonna get a NASCAR take-off unit. Should do the trick.

[BIZERK]

I dont know if it would make it any easier to find a relocation kit but i'm pretty sure all the RB's run 300zx oil filters. Also jamie thats a great idea about using a NASCAR unit. I've thought about talking my uncle into letting me use one of his oil coolers he used to use on his ARCA car. Anyways good work man!

[RB26powered74zcar]

Well, after fighting this air con bracket for clearnce, I finally got the right combination of fittings to clear everything. I bought a $39.00 3/4 ntp male -12 hose end to screw directly into the pump, but the radius on the 90 deg part was to much. I ended up using a strait 3/4 -12 fitting with a tight radius 90 deg -12 hose fitting...

 

Now its time to do the fittings/pick up on the alum pan to hook this all up to.

 

CLICK

 

 

 

J.

[Guest JAMIE T]

Looking real good Joel! I need to order hose and fittings. Also a "T". There are so many brands and styles these days to choose from. Stainless, push-lock, socketless, etc.. It's making my head swim! I had an idea today to install the fittings, one per side of the sump. Approx. midway front to back in the sump. My only worry with having them seperated is if one was to suck air, that would not be good. But if the pan is baffled good, then that should never happen. Building a drag racing pan is ALOT easier than building a multi use pan. I want to drift my car as well as track days and alot of drag racing, so I'm really studying this stuff.

[KAZU]

CLICK

 

 

 

J.

 

How much distance do you have between the tensioner bolt head at the lowest part of bracket and the sway bar?

 

Kazu