lift plate ??

[grumpyvette]

I was asked to repost this info

 

engine lifting plate

safe? usually, yes! if your asking do they drop the engine...

BUT PERSONALLY I think its a NO BRAINER!

Ive used PLATES in swaps done at some of my friends shops, they bolt with (4) 1/4" or in some cases (4) 5/16" studs in my opinion they flat out are dangerous compared to a tilter that bolts with 3/8" bolts anchored in the courners of the cylinder heads and very difficult to use compared to a good engine tilter like this one below, while the plate seems attractive at $8 compared to $25-$30 or more for a tilter/leveler I have seen the plates destroy manifolds on two occasions by cracking carb mount pads and bending carb studs, especially if the intake is old with coroasion on the stud threads, (4)1/4" or 5/16" studs into aluminum intakes of questionable depth are no comparison to (4) 3/8" bolts into the cylinder heads, and the (4)head mounted 3/8" bolts are under shear and tension while the studs in the intake rely on the thread strength only

 

 

I now bring my own tilter/leveler when going to a friends to do an engine swap and have YET to find anyone who after useing one that did not go out and by one!

 

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Disp...itemnumber=5402

 

 

LOOK THEY ARE ON SALE FOR $25, they are rated at 4000lbs vs 1250 lbs for the plate and they make life far easier durring an engine install at $25 they are a GREAT DEAL[/b]

 

adding a swivel like this between the leveler and crane GREATLY AIDS THE ENGINES REMOVAL, DON,T GET STUPID or CHEAP, GET THE 3400lb rated one not the 1200lb size (REMEMBER YOULL BE UNDER THAT ENGINE SOMETIMES)

youll need two of these rated at similar load strength

 

 

links like these are NEVER to be used under serious loads

 

links like these ARE RATED for LOADS but never use less than a 3/8" steel link

 

http://secure.cartsvr.net/catalogs/catalog.asp?prodid=2744465&showprevnext=1

 

but you need a serious safety margin

most engines weight well under 900 lbs so a 200%-400% safety margin is advisable, youll want a minimum of a 2600-3000 lb load rated link, Ive used tempered steel 3/8" 3600lb AND 1/2" 4500lb links for years with zero problems

if it costs under $12-$16 each ID think they were NOT load rated links

load rated links have the manufacturers name and load rating stamped on the link, and are generally sold seperately not from bulk pack boxes

 

links like these can be found rated at 5-10 tons or more

[Wagz]

Timely (re)post. I own both a plate and a leveler. I've never used the plate. I'm getting close to dropping my SBC with T56 attached into my car and I've had exactly that concern over the plate. I've seen plenty of pictures of engines being held by the plates bolted into aluminum intakes and I've never heard of one breaking and dropping the motor, but I've been worrying about damaging my aluminum intake or worse. I think I'll stick with the leveler and the mounts on the heads...

[johnc]

I have the Harbor Frieght leveler and it needs a modification to make it work. The little black handle unscrews and comes off almost immediatly the first time you use it. I tossed it and welded a 1/2" bolt (3/4" bolt head) centered on the screw shaft. That lets me use an air ratchet to move the leveler forward and back. Also, these kinds of levelers tend to tilt the engine to one side so you have to think ahead and hook the chains up to the engine so it sits level just when it is on the mounts.

[Jolane]

I also own both, and have used the plate for my current 383 project into the 240Z. I had my tranny attached also, and did not find it difficult to use compared to the leveler. I personally don't like the leveler much due to its tendancy to twist the engine. I also did not want the chains going over the valve covers. The plate is simple, holds well (using ARP bolts into an AirGap intake), and keeps the engine level (horizontal).

An aside, when I needed a way to get the car up my drive way (no drive train, but inclined driveway), I bought another plate and bolted it to the floor in my garage, and use it as an anchor for my come along. Works very well like that also.

I am not saying that one is better than the other, merely that I like the plate more for my situation.

Joshua

[zcarnut]

I only used my Harbor Freight engine leveler about six times before the threads in the piece that moves (when you turn the handle) stripped out.

 

Lousy Chinese crap!

 

Great tool to have and I won’t pull an engine without it, but buy a better quality one. They do exist.

[grumpyvette]

I have owned an engine leveler similar in design to the harbor freight design for close to 33 PLUS years, ITs not made in CHINA, I bought it at an engine supply house in the 1970s and its been used for easily 100 plus engine pulls and its still in great shape,the links and swivels are necessary to eliminate any tendency to twist

[JMortensen]

I think Steve would have done better if he greased the threads on his leveler, very similar to lubing the threads on a spring compressor.

[wheelman]

I think Steve would have done better if he greased the threads on his leveler, very similar to lubing the threads on a spring compressor.

Jon,

You beat me to it!!

I found this one out myself the hard way, although none of the threads were stripped, the leveler just bound up a bit before I figured out it needed some lube.

 

I love my leveler, it's not a Harbor Freight, it's a Schucks special. I won't pull another engine without it. Mine has an angle bracket at the end of each chain which I connect to the intake manifold bolts that thread into the heads, that way the chains don't have to go over the valve covers.

I do plan on getting a swivel as the leveler tends to rotate the engine sideways to the hoist which gets a little irritating.

 

Wheelman

[grumpyvette]

most truck supply shops have a selection

many marine stores and large hardware supply stores have or can order them

 

just look for a minimum 2600lb- 3000lb LIFT RATED(higher is better) 3/8 or 1/2" FORGED parts

below is one source

 

 

http://www.samcosales.com/swivels.htm

 

http://www.samcosales.com/shackles.htm

 

http://www.samcosales.com/hooks.htm

 

http://1st-chainsupply.com/hooks/gr80_slip_hooks.htm

 

just look for 3000lb LIFT RATED 3/8 or 1/2" FORGED parts

[jaime240z]

I used my engine leveler for the first time recently. It is the Kragen special. It makes pulling the engine sooooo easy. I actually pulled my engine/tranny together while waiting for a friend to come over and help me! When he got here he was like "WTF, the work is already done!"

 

I MUST get one of those swivel doo-dads, I can see how it would have helped. And of course, lubing the threads is a must!

[Here comes trouble]

I have the Harbor Freight tilter and was considering getting the manifold plate for engine reremoval out of a van. I was concerned about the plate attached to an aluminum manifold........ not now...... I do not want a plate on advice of Mr. Grump.........and I will convert the tilter to air power

[zcarnut]

I think Steve would have done better if he greased the threads on his leveler, very similar to lubing the threads on a spring compressor.

 

Jon, You beat me to it!! I found this one out myself the hard way, although none of the threads were stripped, the leveler just bound up a bit before I figured out it needed some lube. Wheelman

 

OK, OK.... You guys are correct! I admit it. I don’t recall ever lubing the threads of my Harbor Freight leveler.

 

Funny, I _do_ lube my spring compressors every time I use them, and I have owned them for over 30 years!