Guest 73Turbo240z Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Engine - 83' L28ET Chassis - 73' 240z MSD - will actually be the 6AL, but i modified and existing diagram i found for matters of simplicity, and i had a really easy time reading this diagram. Distributor - 83' ZXT unit... tell me if this is the right setup, cause it it is, i'm going to skip trying to source stock EFI parts for my motor break in, and just wire it up for this diagram from the get go... any and all help is extreamly appriciated, this is the single most scary part of my build since i've never done electrical this extensive before, and on somthing as precious to me as my new engine :eek3: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73Turbo240z Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 click the picture twice to get to the full size one that is readable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted June 21, 2005 Share Posted June 21, 2005 Your dizzy is an 83 zxt unit so you don't need a GM 4 pin between the dizzy and the tach input to MS. Your dizzy will wire directly to the tach input like the schematic in the install guide shows using only a pullup resistor. Let me know if you have questions because your wiring for what appears to be red and black wire from the dizzy to the 4 pin is not correct. As for the MSD unit, I have not tried that and I am not 100% sure what is required on that end. You will have 4 wires from the dizzy. One is power, one is ground, one is the trigger that connects to the tach line and has a pullup resistor. The install guide lists the color codes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73Turbo240z Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 Your dizzy is an 83 zxt unit so you don't need a GM 4 pin between the dizzy and the tach input to MS. Your dizzy will wire directly to the tach input like the schematic in the install guide shows using only a pullup resistor. Let me know if you have questions because your wiring for what appears to be red and black wire from the dizzy to the 4 pin is not correct. As for the MSD unit' date=' I have not tried that and I am not 100% sure what is required on that end. You will have 4 wires from the dizzy. One is power, one is ground, one is the trigger that connects to the tach line and has a pullup resistor. The install guide lists the color codes.[/quote'] Is it also my understanding that megasquirt n' spark has no provisions for a knock sensor? In which case i do have a external knock indicator i'd acquired for my volvo... just seems freaky to me to run around w/ out an knock sensor. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 just seems freaky to me to run around w/ out an knock sensor. A knock sensor will only start pulling timing after detecting knock. That is the scary part to me that knock is occuring at all can cause damage at high boost levels, sensor or not. The are experimental circuits to use knock sensor with MSnS_Extra. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Forrest Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 I'm holding out for ION SENSING! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xander Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 in the diagram there is also a ground at pin 19 that you forgot or omitted for some reason. What are you going to use pin 25 for? I used shrink tubing around the pins after soldering them as an extra insurance agains shortings. but this Looks like good clean soldering to me. great work! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony D Posted July 14, 2005 Share Posted July 14, 2005 RE: Knock Sensing... Most OEMs, Nissan Included, disable knock sensing over 3500rpms. Where they pull out the timing is in a range where you are not particularly loaded enough to damage the engine... Now, in fourth or fifth gear, if you get on it at highway speeds, do you REALLY want to pull spark back a few degrees to let you pull past 3500 under FULL BOOST and FULL LOAD and have the knock sensing eliminated? I would rather hear the onset at a lower load and rpm level, and get out of it manually, than get a false sens of security and load it up to where it will do damage---which is what happens on dyno pulls on the stock ECU's all the time. Oh, BTW, that photo is trick as hell! I like how the wiring matches the diagram in color. Trick Trick Trick! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73Turbo240z Posted July 15, 2005 Share Posted July 15, 2005 RE: Knock Sensing... Most OEMs' date=' Nissan Included, disable knock sensing over 3500rpms. Where they pull out the timing is in a range where you are not particularly loaded enough to damage the engine... Now, in fourth or fifth gear, if you get on it at highway speeds, do you REALLY want to pull spark back a few degrees to let you pull past 3500 under FULL BOOST and FULL LOAD and have the knock sensing eliminated? I would rather hear the onset at a lower load and rpm level, and get out of it manually, than get a false sens of security and load it up to where it will do damage---which is what happens on dyno pulls on the stock ECU's all the time. Oh, BTW, that photo is trick as hell! I like how the wiring matches the diagram in color. Trick Trick Trick![/quote'] thanks, i went in and rematched everything in photoshop just so it could be that little bit easier to interpret... wiring a brand new motor freaks me out, so i'm being super anal retentive about quadruple checking all steps. I'll redo the diagram w/ the new changes tonight sometime. Just trying to figure out what all sensors i'll need to get sense i plan on running all new ones for peace of mind, then track down a source for em. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73Turbo240z Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 UPDATE: Re-did the diagram, think i've nailed it this time... please tell me if i got it right... also, where does the tach output of the MSD box go now then? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest 73Turbo240z Posted August 24, 2005 Share Posted August 24, 2005 anyone? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 I have not used the msd unit, but other than that the diagram looks correct to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HeatRaveR Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 UPDATE: Re-did the diagram, think i've nailed it this time... please tell me if i got it right... also, where does the tach output of the MSD box go now then? Sweet mercy, thank you for this!!! Why is this not a sticky?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 Sweet mercy, thank you for this!!! Why is this not a sticky?! I second that. I too have used this multiple times on my megasquirt installs and think it would help alot of first timers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cygnusx1 Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 It's been about a year since I wired my MSII so I am a bit rusty but why does the MSD box tie into FIDLE? I don't use the MSD, I used MSII to fire the 83 turbo coil. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thumper Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 It's been about a year since I wired my MSII so I am a bit rusty but why does the MSD box tie into FIDLE? I don't use the MSD, I used MSII to fire the 83 turbo coil. MSI 2.2 doesn't have a vb ignition do-hickey so you need to hook the fidle up to msd box to fire the coil or another ignition control device. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeffer949 Posted February 8, 2008 Share Posted February 8, 2008 i am running the msd 6a on my msns 3.0 with the vb coil driver driving a msd blaster coil. i was getting a missfire under boost at like 13psi. SPEEDER told me to try a msd 6a and i wired it up and it fixed my missfire.so i dont see why it shouldnt work just coming off of the fidle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zercs280zx Posted February 9, 2008 Share Posted February 9, 2008 According to the msextra manual, you should run your MSD off LED17(D14) to SparkA. How you mod your board depends on v 3.0 or 2.2 (see the link below). I believe Fidle will work, but this is what is recommended. I have a Crane box and jumped my v 3.0 as the directions indicate, but I have not gotten it up in running. Some one may want to chime in, but I assumed that if the manual calls for this as the ignition output for an MSD, or an other aftermarket ignition, it's probably the way you would want to go..... it sets the dwell at 50% and Inverted through this specific output, I'm not sure what Fidle will give you or how reliable it is.... in other words, I went with the msextra manual... http://www.msextra.com/manuals/MS_Extra_Ignition_Hardware_Manual.htm#msdout Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mobythevan Posted February 11, 2008 Share Posted February 11, 2008 I think it would work better as a sticky if someone made a new post with a descriptive title like "how to wire MSD ignition to MS" or something like that and then include the link to the picture. You can still give credit to the original poster if you want. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datman Posted February 18, 2008 Share Posted February 18, 2008 looks good! I'd run 2 wires to the air temp and water temp sensors though. Using single wire temp sensor witht he engine as ground caused me all sorts of noise problems. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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