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Be careful sectioning too much and/or lowering your car too far. You eventually get into a situation where suspension hits frame, tie rods bottom out, etc. I can't tell you where exactly those problems happen, but I can tell you that with stock rear control arms and normally sectioned struts I was able to hit the rear frame with the control arm. You could put a longer bumpstop in there to prevent metal to metal contact if there is any. In the front with rod end sway bar end links I had to try 2 or 3 times to set them up so that they didn't bind up as well. If this stuff binds on a big bump something could bend or break, not a good thing.

 

Bumpsteer also gets pretty nasty when the car is super low, and bumpsteer spacers don't fix bump steer. Read the bumpsteer FAQ for more on that if you're going to go really low.

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You should start a new thread.  Nothing worse than finding a bunch of clutter at the end of an FAQ thread.  The FAQ's are supposed to "all killer, no filler".  Not frequently asked questions answered

Be careful sectioning too much and/or lowering your car too far. You eventually get into a situation where suspension hits frame, tie rods bottom out, etc. I can't tell you where exactly those problems happen, but I can tell you that with stock rear control arms and normally sectioned struts I was able to hit the rear frame with the control arm. You could put a longer bumpstop in there to prevent metal to metal contact if there is any. In the front with rod end sway bar end links I had to try 2 or 3 times to set them up so that they didn't bind up as well. If this stuff binds on a big bump something could bend or break, not a good thing.

 

Bumpsteer also gets pretty nasty when the car is super low, and bumpsteer spacers don't fix bump steer. Read the bumpsteer FAQ for more on that if you're going to go really low.

 

 

Thanks. I'm not actually planning on going super low, but I'd like to go lower than most. Just trying to understand the limitations of the 1437's in terms of ride height. For example, can you get to the suspension-hit-frame senario with the 1437's or do you need the 1436's to get to that point?

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Be careful sectioning too much and/or lowering your car too far. You eventually get into a situation where suspension hits frame, tie rods bottom out, etc. I can't tell you where exactly those problems happen, but I can tell you that with stock rear control arms and normally sectioned struts I was able to hit the rear frame with the control arm. You could put a longer bumpstop in there to prevent metal to metal contact if there is any. In the front with rod end sway bar end links I had to try 2 or 3 times to set them up so that they didn't bind up as well. If this stuff binds on a big bump something could bend or break, not a good thing.

 

Bumpsteer also gets pretty nasty when the car is super low, and bumpsteer spacers don't fix bump steer. Read the bumpsteer FAQ for more on that if you're going to go really low.

 

 

Thanks. I'm not actually planning on going super low, but I'd like to go lower than most. Just trying to understand the limitations of the 1437's in terms of ride height. For example, can you get to the suspension-hit-frame senario with the 1437's or do you need the 1436's to get to that point?

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Depends. You really would need to section to the shorter strut and then add in bump stop length until you could have the travel you want without any binding. To check for binding you need to remove the spring and the sway bar from the opposite side, and then move the suspension through its range of motion BY HAND. If you do it with a floor jack there's a good chance of missing the bind completely.

 

The risk in this is that if you section too short you might not have enough droop when you're done.

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In your opinion, does the 1437 practically limit the amount you can lower your car? Or is it a non-issue?

 

No. The practical limit is determined by the suspension mounting points and where the roll centers end up. In general, on 14" wheels, you can't go lower then 5" measured at the rocker panel without changing the inner mounting points of the front lower control arms. On 15" wheels you're limited to about 5 1/2", 16" wheels about 6", etc.

 

This practical limit is for a good handling S30. If you don't care about handling then you can go much lower, but then why would you be looking at installing the Konis if you don't care about handling?

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Cool, Thanks for confirming that JohnC.

 

You're correct, I do want good handling. And wanted to get the best shocks I could that would suit the track without going totally overboard price wise.

 

I dont want to go lower than what is beneficial, so it's good to confirm the 8610-1437's will go a low as I'll ever need.

 

I've put in my order for them and GC coil-overs & camber plates. Woohoo!

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  • 11 months later...

Hey guys, I'm in the process of completely replacing/rebuilding the suspension on my 72 240Z and have read most all the threads and sticky's about this on here. Urethane bushings, sectioned struts w/ Illuminas, 5" threaded collars, 10" springs 225F/250R. Oh, by the way I'm doing this w/ a complete suspension from a 77 280Z. I understand this will bolt in but it also leads me to a couple of questions. This will be mainly a street car w/ maybe some track time. Using 16" wheels w/ a planned ride height of 6" but with the ability to go a little lower if I so choose.

 

So, here is my 1st question: Although they are 280Z struts, on the front should I still use the 240Z recommended inside tube height of 13.375" - 13.500" and a perch height of 5.25"? Same question for the rear. Should I achieve an inside tube height of 14.938" - 15.000" and a perch height of 7.25"? If I understand correctly, although they are 280Z struts (the rear 280Z struts are a couple of inches longer than 240Z rear struts), if I use the dimensions posted byjohnc, I will essentially have what is dimensionally identical to 240Z sectioned struts. Can anyone confirm or correct me if I'm wrong.

 

My second question is: Should I use the rear 240Z strut tops instead of the taller 280Z rear strut tops, if the 280Z struts are going into a 240Z?

 

I hope this makes since and someone will confirm or correct. Thanks in advance.

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  • 6 months later...

Ok I think I am confused. I am doing this on a 280, I have the 12" springs and 4" collars from ground control. Using illuminas. Will the same measurements from the 240 work? As in final length of strut tube, and where to weld the lower ring.

 

I'm using the bz3099 in front and bz3013 in back, I'd like the car to drop 2-3 ", I'll be using stock insulators. Thanks and sorry if this has been covered. I did read extensively but just couldn't find exact measurements for the 280

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Ok I think I am confused. I am doing this on a 280, I have the 12" springs and 4" collars from ground control. Using illuminas. Will the same measurements from the 240 work? As in final length of strut tube, and where to weld the lower ring.

 

Since the FAQ uses 10" tall springs and 5" tall collars, you need to do some math to figure out what will work for you.

 

I'm using the bz3099 in front and bz3013 in back, I'd like the car to drop 2-3 ", I'll be using stock insulators. Thanks and sorry if this has been covered. I did read extensively but just couldn't find exact measurements for the 280

 

For a 280Z I suggest you shorten the front struts for the BZ3099s to fit without a spacer in the bottom and take note of how much you remove from the strut tube. Remove the exact same amount from the rear strut tube and make a correct length spacer to fit the BZ3013.

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  • 11 months later...

For a 280Z I suggest you shorten the front struts for the BZ3099s to fit without a spacer in the bottom and take note of how much you remove from the strut tube. Remove the exact same amount from the rear strut tube and make a correct length spacer to fit the BZ3013.

 

I am about to start sectioning struts and building coilovers using Bilstein p30-0032 on a 77 280z however if I cut my front tubes to fit the Bilstein inserts as suggested above for the illuminas I would be shortening my tubes by 2.25 inches. The DIY on doing the Bilsteins target is 1.5 inch but then use a 9/16" spacer at the bottom of the tube. I would rather not use a spacer on the fronts if possible but I understand that sectioning more than 2" is a bad Idea. Should I stay with the 1.5" with these inserts? Planning on running Group buy 17" Rota RB-r's 

Edited by rhettro74
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