Monster L28ET motor build up. to stroke or not.Tim240z get ur head out of the gutter!

[Guest ON3GO]

Okay..

im building another L28ET on the side, not sure what it will go in yet.

it seems i turned into somebody who i always made fun of... i try to make my engine look all pretty and perfect lol, i was never like this.

 

My blue Z's engine is way to detailed for what the car will see, its not a show car ,yet the engine bay sure looks like it.

 

so i desided im gonna go back to my roots and build something that when people see it all they will say is "it looks stock, so why do you want to race my 600hp LS1 vette?" hahhaha

 

now should i keep it a 2.8lt or should i do a 3.1 stroker?

money will be spent on the engine, i dont care.

so ill be sending the block to be ultrasonically checked before the rebuild to see if its a good base to build on.

will be hot tanked and anything else i can think of before i start putting it all together.

now i want to run alot of boost on this engine, 25+psi... want it to last too, i know things will break but i also know with a good tune that high HP engines can last. so should i keep it a 2.8 as the cylinder walls will be alot thicker then with a 3.1..?

 

also what should i consider doing to the block before the rebuild.. anything at all that can help make it last longer, make more power. also anything after?

 

as of now i want to get a P90 head sent to sunbelt to get a uber crazy.

gonna run a stock N42 intake manifold that will be extrude hone'd, ported, polished and then coated inside to flow awesome.

remember i want this engine to look STOCK, atleast as close as i can get it.

 

as of now im not gonna start buying parts like injectors and etc, as i dont really know what size ill be needing.

 

BUT im looking into a few trannys, this car will be a auto as this car will be just for drag racing.

 

Turbo...? as of now i dont know, but im thinking something big, will be coated black too.. dont want all the little kids to see it ..

 

Nitrous will be used, single fogger unit, hidden of course...

 

so this engine will see losts of abuse, will see plenty of boost and nitrous... daily!

 

whats your thoughts.

 

btw.. this project is to pretty much take ppls money

 

mike

[rayaapp2]

Your going to hit all the same problems I came up with. You will find that most all people around the forums will not be able to help you truly. Except to say that, that won't work. Which in my case is an unacceptable answer. Try doing some research into Electromotive, jeffP, Bob Sharp, and Paul Newman .They have all built L28's that have surpassed 500HP. I don't know how much you'll find. From what I've found I have a good idea on what has to be done to finish my engine. I know I don't know everything to build the engine yet though. It's gonna be trial by test. I'm starting with 2 stock turbo engines and building them up for just under 400 lbs of torque.

[Guest ON3GO]

well my green Z had a L28ET in it, made over 400+rwhp and had no intercooler at all.

thing is on this engine i want more then 400.. more like 500+.. and i want it stock looking.

so there goes the all nice custom intake manifolds and very sweet custom exhaust manifolds out the window...

im sure, as in i know for a fact i can make those kind of numbers out of stock appering parts, and i know its gonna be money to make these parts work well and im okay with that.

Nitrous will help alot on what i want this engine to make, i figure with the big turbo i want to run and a 200 or so shot of dope, along with some MT or M/H drag radials on a nicely stalled Auto car it will be plenty fast.

 

i just dont know if stroking it would be a good thing.

i know i can do a 2.9 or 3.0 like james did.. so maybe that would be a better idea then going to a full 3.1.... i just want this engine to be balanced correctly, and make the power i want it to make and last.

 

mike

[rayaapp2]

I don't plan on stroking mine.

I will be boring it a bit. Adding forged pistons.

 

I'm definately not a NOS master. I'd be interested to see you run a 200 shot on a boosted L28. If you can do that I could definatley learn something from you.

 

Balancing is critical. The reason I shy away from the stroker is pretty simple. I don't doubt that it works. Pistons are made to go only so fast. The piston then becomes critical. Some pistons just can handle the acceleration. You could very well take out the cylinder wall and piston if you don't carefully choose your combo. If I could do that it would not be a matter of "stroking it or not". It's not in my budget to do the R&D to figure out what combo works with the sort of engine you plan to build(power wise). At that point you might as well buy a Robello's(sp?) engine. If you had money I don't know why you wouldn't have someone like that build one custom for you.

 

Make sure you stiffen up that suspension and fatten up the rear wheels.

 

Building it to last is the challenge for me as well. This will be my first high HP/Torque Lseries. Like I said trail by test.

[Guest ON3GO]

reason for me building it and not some shop is pretty easy.. i would love for a shop like that build my engine but i also like doing it myself.

 

remember also that this engine might not go in a Z..

pretty sure its gonna be going in a old RWD maxima.. think that would be fun!

with a auto, some wide yet not eye catching wheels, and a stock appering engine in a ugly box like that with some old stock white paint... it would be the perfect sleeper.

 

and thats what i want, a true sleeper to take peoples money with

 

mike

[AK-Z]

The critical part of stroking is not the pistons (remeber I said critical) its the balance of the crank and equal weight/balance of the c/r and pistons. Piston quality is one factor but if its not balanced, then that will just multiply the problems of the quatily of the pistons also c/r quality.

 

I would like to see a 3.0l stroke w/ boost. This is what I wish that I can do with a supercharger, but reality sucks.

 

What you can do the hide the turbo is make a "sheild" out of sheet metal, light acid etch, zinc plate it, then get it dirty (alot of money and work but its seems like you have no definite budget).

 

With the numbers you want to make, I would think that you would have to get a I/C by some point. You can go air to water I/C or what ever its called. (alot easier to hide)

 

If you look for fairlady TT in the japan search engine and use bable fish to translate then I think you can find a setup making 700whp. I believe that it uses a l28et block stroked to 3.1 using carbs with a "blow by carb" TT setup.

[EZ-E]

I would have to agree with AK-Z, the most critical part is the balance of the motor more then anything, and I would also suggest as another said, to take a look into Jeff Priddys' set up. Though he has stroked and bored it, I from reading, have come to find that the boring of cylinders isnt really necessary for power.

 

What is absolutly necessary for power though is work to that L6 head. If you look for some of TonyD's posts he explains a lot about this and the Bonneville cars making HUGE hp and going faster then any of us would ever do in a Z, without boring a cylinder wall at all.

 

I would think with a lot of head work, proper ground cam, and the proper turbo set up you could easily be at 450-500 hp, I think you only limiting factor would be your intake manifold if you wanted to keep it stock looking that is.

[Guest JAMIE T]

Just hide a wet nitrous system. I have done basically what you're trying to do. I built a sleeper 5.0 mustang that was a dead ringer as perfectly stock. You will give up some things for the true sleeper look. Make-up for it with a small shot of juice. On the 5.0, you know that big upper intake plenum? Mine was hollowed out and turned into a place to hide the NOS. The "runners" became completely opened up. I turned the long runner intake into a short runner intake with ALOT of welding and grinding, then smoothed all the external welds down and sand blasted the intake and shot is with the oem color paint. That engine was a 347 stroker with Dart 200cc heads and the mildest cam I could find. It was backed up by a PA C4 trans linked to a stock AOD shifter. The rear was upgraded with Auburn LSD and 4.30 gears. On stock 15 x 7 "phone dial" rims with BFG DR's it ran 11.0's with a 100 shot.

 

To make that apply to the L28, stroke it. Fortify the bottom end. Use as many stock parts as possible. Use nitrous to make up for what you lose by using stock type parts.

[Dragonfly]

The first thing is that all I have read and heard is that a stock Nissan intake manifold will split at the seams at around 24# of boost, which means either finding some way to reinforce the stock intake or making a custom steel intake that looks like a stock aluminum intake. The other thing is you do not need to increase your bore that much to increase your displacement. Take your LD28 crank (stroker crank) and after it has been fully checked out to make sure it is good have a compitent shop weld up the journals and re-grind them with a greater stroke length. This procedure will increase your torque notibly but you will have to "notch" the bottom of your block for clearance of the connecting rods. This is what is done to get 3.2 and and higher displacement out of an L series block without blowing out the cylinder walls.

 

As for the boost you want to run you need to "O" ring the block/head in order to hold the boost without blowing out your head gasket. Now for my thoughts on block prep... since you want this engine to last more than one race you need to put some TIME and effort into the block. Start by de-burring everything in the block, then carefuly radius every single sharp edge in the block, that includes your mains and caps (use a small sharp file to knock the sharp edge off then use 120 or finer grit sand paper on a small piece of wood to dress the edge after using the file). You should do this to every sharp edge in the entire block except to top (deck) of the cylinders. I personaly spent over a month preping my block. Do not polish the inside of the block, it should retain some texture to help with internal cooling.

 

I have to get back to work right now but don't let anyone tell you it can't be done.

 

Dragonfly

[johnc]

The first thing is that all I have read and heard is that a stock Nissan intake manifold will split at the seams at around 24# of boost,

 

Then that was a defective casting. 24 psi is not much pressure for an aluminum casting to handle. You put more air pressure in your tires.

[Drax240z]

The first thing is that all I have read and heard is that a stock Nissan intake manifold will split at the seams at around 24# of boost, Dragonfly

 

Let me guess, lots of bolts fall out from under your dash, then your floorpans fall out, right?

[KUBO-Z]

I have several old and new magazines from Japan with articles of 3.1Ls turbocharged boasting 0ver 500Hp, one has made 700HP with a twin turbo mega dollar/yen engine and drivetrain combos. I believe he posted some of his specs in one of the artilces. I also recieved an older magazine that had an artilce explaining the buildup of a 3344.89 cc (3.3L) engine. May point is there are books ( translator required) out there which illustrate the development limits of the L28 and they may be a good guide for you in making your decision on what you want to do. These magazines will be my guide in building my 500 + HP 2.9L turbo engine, supported by an IHI turbo. Good luck on your venture.

[Dnaught14]

If you plan on dragging the car, and using it only for the strip you should consider using a air/water IC. Basically you would use a second radiator, and water pump to circulate the water trough the system. Since your just draging the car you can use an Ice Tank, and that would drop your temps dramatically. It's pricey and not good for the street, but these issues dont come into play with what you trying to do. Otherwise, if youve made 400 before, im sure that 500 is in your realm of possibilty. Talk to Alex Costa, he could figure a lot of the details out for you.

[violacleff]

I think you'll at least have to use a custom intake manifold. Wow I had never heard the results of the hulk. Whats up with it?

[Dragonfly]

The comment about 24# of boost splitting the manifold was something I had read and had been told by some people when I was researching building a high boost L28, any way you do it is up to you.

 

 

Dragonfly

[Gollum]

Well, in theory, the longer the stroke the less RPM the piston can handle. F1 cars usually use ultra short stroke and big bore. The main thing to look at is RPM. If it't not going to go above 7k then a huge stroke should be fine. As to any REAL suggestions, I'll leave someone here who's got more practice than theory to make a recomendation.

[Bernardd]

You MUST use methanol injection. Even with the best intercooler, there are big benefits meth. I have the specs on how to build up a jatco 4spd auto to handle 6-700hp. You'll need a manual valve body from http://www.keas.com.au to hold that kind of power. Unless you're going to use a domestic.

 

Bernard

[spork]

I second the methanal injection kit. Running race gas will scare people away, and Methanol has some very good benifits as well. If you go with a programable EMS, you can run a lot of methanol and cut back your fuel and make some really good power without the detonation. As far as the nitrous kit, I'd recommend going with direct port nozzles if you go with a very big shot. You WANT even distribution! Build, or have built a header for your exhaust and build heat shields to hide it. Then put your nozzles on the underside of the intake. Now they're invisible except to the detailed prying eyes.

 

As far as your intake goes...you're going to have to do quite a bit of work to it, but I believe it to be possible. Make friends with an aluminum welder, and life will be a lot easier....

[Guest ON3GO]

want to us a TH400 but ill see.. so far thats the plan.

doubt i wanna do a powerglide though.. would be cool

 

i really dont want to use a intercooler, ppl will notice it and if i can use say Alky injection instead and still be safe and make power, then i rather do that.

 

i will do a bigger j-pipe but i still want to make it look near stock.

 

Barnardd... i would love to hear about the specs on the jatco 4-speed auto.. im open to alot of ideas as of now.

 

Dnaught14.. alex is my buddie, and im sure he will have his hand in this project too, once he gets wind of it atleast lol.

he has my Hulk Z right now, have something in the works for that..

 

 

violacleff.. the hulk Z is sorta hush hush right now.. as really of now there is no info to be told on it.. might not use a L28ET in it.. maybe

 

mike

[rags]

Do we want to get another group buy for the flat top pistons we had a few years ago for a 3 liter? I'd make another couple of motors with them!

 

Joe