BrandonsZ Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 Wow.. Maybe I misunderstood the guy I talked to at Airgas but down here (ky) I called and to fill a 60cf it was like 35$ or something. Yes I have a 150# tank and it's only under $40 to refil with 100% argon. Actually they just give me a tank and I give them my old one regardless of how much I have left in it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 14, 2005 Author Share Posted December 14, 2005 336 cubic foot tank is $38.00 to refill with 100% Argon at Lehner/Martin. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlackBeaut Posted December 14, 2005 Share Posted December 14, 2005 I'm looking at getting an Italian SIP gas/gasless, 25-150amps with six settings, similar but not the same as this one here [url']http://www.welduk.com/Details.asp?ProductID=246[/url] I've got the DP version of that (can use flux-cored and gas). It's OK but the power switches are a PITA, there's no info in the leaflet as to what wattage they actually equate to, so anything between all off and all on is a bit of a guess. Also - I don't know if this is the case with all welders - but as you up the power it automatically increases the wire speed, even though it has a nice fully adjustable wire speed dial. Possibly just my inexperience but it seemed to me that the wire was too fast for some power settings, even when turning the speed dial right down. In use it seemed OK once I'd got the settings roughly right, I've only welded 3mm steel and it didn't have any overheating problems. So pretty good but would be better with a power dial. Glad I got mine new on Ebay cheap!! Cheers, Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 Thanks Rob, that wire speed up thing sounds a bit weird, maybe it could be disabled. I'd like a better one but would rather spend money on the car so its just a means to an end for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oleh Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 I love my Lincoln SP-135. It welded my 2mm frame and my .6mm body. Very user friendly and it was a bargain. A tig is way to expensive and unless you have a shop, IMO there is no reason to buy one. The mig will take care of everything, hell i welded up my exhuast with it. Not pretty but it holds up great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AK-Z Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 But to refill a a tank is like $100 (for O/A)per tank Price to refill Oxy Acetolene. Not Argon. and doesn't reflect price in lower 48. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MikeJTR Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 I have a mig, tig, and oxy/acetylene. Like almost any equipment, the more expensive machines are typically better than the less expensive machines. But, as technology gets better, the low-priced equipment does remarkably well. I would stick to name-brand equipment so that supplies are easily obtained. If you are going to buy a welder, take a welding class first -- there is a lot to learn, and safety is the most important thing to learn when welding, or you could easily injure yourself and others. Many people believe tig welding requires special skills. My opinion is that tig is way easier than oxy/acetylene. Tig welding equipment is way more expensive than mig or oxy/acetylene, and that is why so few people have used tig. Using tig on steel is easy -- step on the pedal until a puddle forms, and weld. The low heat conductivity of steel makes it easy to control the heat in the weld zone. Using tig on aluminum takes way more practice because the aluminum is easily contaminated. Also, aluminum doesn't glow so it is difficult to determine how hot the surrounding metal is. Furthermore, aluminum requires more heat due to the greater heat conductivity -- too much heat, and the weld puddle will go all the way through the part. A problem with tig is that it practically requires you to put the parts you are welding on a welding table. With mig, you can weld the parts on the car. 95% of the time, I use the mig welder. For small parts requiring a small weld bead, I will use the tig. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Brad-ManQ45 Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 I will chime in and say that for most HybridZ-ers, MIG is more forgiving and easier to learn for what we are going to be doing, sheetmetal and schassis work. If you start adding thin aluminum into the equation, then TIC starts looking good. MIG was developed for the mass production auto industry for body panels. Foir people just starting out, MIG is a great way to get into welding. I took classes, and I too bought a MM175 - this is one fine machine. I learned on LIncolns in class, but I have heard some bad stories about CS at RED that mad me pick BLUE, and I'm glad I did. I have finished my rotisserie and am awaiting time and funds for hoisting the beast up and attacking floorpans and subchassis connectors - soome warmer weather wouldn't hurt either.... I will back everyone else who has said to go with a quality product. Even professionals have a hard time with the cheap crap. For the real beginners worried about burn through on sheet metal, Harris makes a product called "Twenty Guage" that is actually .031", and is a cored wired that you use gas with. VERY difficult to burn through with it - you really have to be trying. As far as weld quality goes, MIG and TIG can meet the same standards, but it is a little harder with MIG - you simply can't see it as well because of the gun tip. I have produced some absolutely beautiful welds (mostly when practicing, of course!) - That stack of dimes can happen with MIG just as it does with TIG, but it requires a lot of experience and practice. I happen to be fortunate because Warren lives about 8 miles from me and has a TIG, we just tore out his rear suspension arms to put iin camber and toe adjusters on his 280ZXT....Possible to do without removing rear suspension member if you have a right angle dril l- heh heh! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 15, 2005 Author Share Posted December 15, 2005 A problem with tig is that it practically requires you to put the parts you are welding on a welding table. I will tell myself that next time I'm on my back in a 240Z, welding overhead, working the amptrol with my knees, my arms at full length, and cussing at my Speedglas helmet because it keeps switching as my hands block the arc. And some people wonder why I charge $60 an hour to TIG weld a roll cage... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MusPuppis Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 A problem with tig is that it practically requires you to put the parts you are welding on a welding table. I will tell myself that next time I'm on my back in a 240Z, welding overhead, working the amptrol with my knees, my arms at full length, and cussing at my Speedglas helmet because it keeps switching as my hands block the arc. And some people wonder why I charge $60 an hour to TIG weld a roll cage... I think what he was meaning is TIG is very unforgiving when it comes to out-of-position welding. It can sure be done, but its alot harder than pointing a MIG gun and pulling the trigger, hehe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vashonz Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 I learned how to TIG weld today. We had the classroom stuff yesterday. Today they gave us the demo then let us try it. It is alot easier than MIG or stick. Initially I had some problems with sticking the electrode while scratching to strike an arc, but eventually figured it out. HF start is nice. By the end of the day I had some pretty consistent beads using 309 rod on stainless plate. The hardest part was keeping the interpass temp below 500 F. My experience with MIG welding was trying to build some saw tables at work. I could never get the feed rate and current correct and usually ended up either burning holes in the .120 wall tube or making a pile of weld. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
260DET Posted December 15, 2005 Share Posted December 15, 2005 .... I'm on my back ....I charge $60 an hour ... Watchit, this is a family forum Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnc Posted December 15, 2005 Author Share Posted December 15, 2005 Armageddon! Armageddon! For those that don't get the reference, I can e-mail you the old, sick, funny story. If I post it here, it wil get deleted. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DemonZ Posted December 16, 2005 Share Posted December 16, 2005 I'm looking at getting an Italian SIP gas/gasless, 25-150amps with six settings, similar but not the same as this one here [url']http://www.welduk.com/Details.asp?ProductID=246[/url] I have the 180, good machine, Tweeko gun, 15yr hobby use still going strong. Wish I didn't let the salesman talk me out of the DP 150! (He incorrectly stated I could use the flux-core) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrandonsZ Posted December 16, 2005 Share Posted December 16, 2005 I learned how to TIG weld today. We had the classroom stuff yesterday. Today they gave us the demo then let us try it. It is alot easier than MIG or stick. Initially I had some problems with sticking the electrode while scratching to strike an arc' date=' but eventually figured it out. HF start is nice. By the end of the day I had some pretty consistent beads using 309 rod on stainless plate. The hardest part was keeping the interpass temp below 500 F. My experience with MIG welding was trying to build some saw tables at work. I could never get the feed rate and current correct and usually ended up either burning holes in the .120 wall tube or making a pile of weld.[/quote'] To those who have never tried it it IS easy. HF start is the only way to go. But you can use a copper strike plate and don't risk the contamination of the electrode however you have to get that copper real close to where you are starting. It can be difficult on your back that's why I got the hand amptrol. It makes it a lot easier one hand has the rod, one hand has the gun and control and the legs are free to dangle. I attaches to the gun and you adjust it with your thumb. I have never used the foot amptrol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest jayridesabike Posted February 6, 2009 Share Posted February 6, 2009 Looking into Miller Tig or mig machines too. Going to be welding some structural platforms this summer with 5/16 plate. money is always an issue, but more important to have to right tools. any thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HowlerMonkey Posted February 7, 2009 Share Posted February 7, 2009 It's easy to "caulk" with a mig welder and think you just welded something. I use a gas torch to preheat my work sometimes. This does wonders if you're mig welding thick stock. One thing many people screw up is the building's ability to pump enough current to a welder. I always try to stay as close to the main breaker box as possible.......which is necessary because I use a 110 volt 140 amp mig welder.........It's not as big an issue with 220. Before anybody slags the 110 welder, it is a 140amp welder with 100% duty cycle and weighs a ton.......the only one I've ever seen with 100% duty. In 110 welders, it's all about the transformer. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mrandrei Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Correct me if I'm wrong, both MIG & TIG welding can be used on aluminum and steel and stainless steel...You simply change the electrode to match what you are welding. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoNkEyT88 Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 Obsessive compulsive = TIG perfection. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowCarbZ Posted February 19, 2009 Share Posted February 19, 2009 It's easy to "caulk" with a mig welder and think you just welded something. Very true. It's a common mistake a lot of rookie MIG welders make with not using enough heat to penetrate the weld. I mean with parts it's pretty simple to see how much heat is transfered to the back side of the material. The biggest problem I usually see with people just learning to weld is anything at a 90 degree angle. By this I mean welding the seam of two pieces perpendicluar to each other like the bi-sect of an "L". Where nozzle angle is most important and usually the majority of the weld is on one piece or the other and very flat. Biggest thing as with anything is just practice I guess. I've got a 220V MIG, wish I had a TIG but I don't. Finished a MIG course last spring been considering taking a TIG course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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