datfreak Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 Ive done a bit of a search and a few have touched on this but id like more ideas. I understand that with a LD28 cranl/l24 rods, there are pistons the can be made to fit- with fly cutting etc. But im more interested in keeping the std l28 crank and rods and just using 120thou flattop oversize pistons- without having to get them made up custom(too much $$$). Anyone know of any other piston combo that would work.? thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 See http://www.escort-us.com/piston/nissan_c.html#3 I am thinking the same for one of my spare engine (installing a stock L28 to get the car back on the road + to sort out my MegaSquirt setup) then build up a good 3.0l using L28 rods and crank with 89mm pistons like the ones they have listed (or maybe even a good 2.9) spending more time and $$ on the head Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datfreak Posted January 13, 2006 Author Share Posted January 13, 2006 Thats a good web site.. Nice looking gear but a bit too pricey. $660 is in US dollars right? So prob about $800-900 AUst dollars with freight- Im not sure if they come with rings. Are the big valve recesses needed--Dont most people use flattops-even with high lift cams? L28 40thou+(87mm) flattops sell for approx $260 approx here in Australia +$150 for rings , but of course im really keen on 89mm ones. I'll keep that website if i plan on boosting my budget Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZeder Posted January 13, 2006 Share Posted January 13, 2006 L28 40thou+(87mm) flattops sell for approx $260 approx here in Australia +$150 for rings , but of course im really keen on 89mm ones. Were is that from - I have having trouble finding flattops here in NZ? Is that Stewart Wilkins Motorsport in Sydney? I might have to get pistons from AUS then and go with the 87mm flattop (even 86mm or 86.5mm would be fine if the bore are good...this is usually the case. I have not seen many L6 that have a lot of ware, usually a hone is all that is needed tops not a bore) And at that price I can then spend the engine budget on the areas that need it ie more head work Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JMortensen Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 See http://www.escort-us.com/piston/nissan_c.html#3I am thinking the same for one of my spare engine (installing a stock L28 to get the car back on the road + to sort out my MegaSquirt setup) then build up a good 3.0l using L28 rods and crank with 89mm pistons like the ones they have listed (or maybe even a good 2.9) spending more time and $$ on the head If you're going to custom pistons anyway you'd do yourself a favor by going with L24 rods. Most of the racing flat top pistons for L28 in the US have a higher pin height to work with the L24 rods. If you're just thinking cast cheapies, then this wouldn't apply. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 You'll want to be careful with the 89mm bore as well. I had 3 blocks sonic tested prior to finding one that was marginal enough to accept that bore size when I built my turbo stroker. The first time a built a 3mm overbore motor, the #6 cylinder wall between the #5 and #6 cylinder cracked into the water passage. New blocks are NLA and the used motors often have had tap water (as opposed to distilled water) running through them which will corrode the water passages over time, making the cylinder walls (and all others) a little thinner. You may already know this, but since you said that you are on a budget, I figured you did not want to have to do the machine work twice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted January 14, 2006 Share Posted January 14, 2006 Hey Z-GAD, May I ask, were these F54 blocks? And did you ever consider offset boring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 All were F54 blocks. When they are sonic tested, they measure the wall thickness at various levels the cylinder. They were able to "cheat" on the bore location slightly (offsetting the bore to avoid thinner points). I wish I had done the process on the first block that cracked. It would have saved me a ton of time and money... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 All were F54 blocks. When they are sonic tested' date=' they measure the wall thickness at various levels the cylinder. They were able to "cheat" on the bore location slightly (offsetting the bore to avoid thinner points). I wish I had done the process on the first block that cracked. It would have saved me a ton of time and money...[/quote'] Read some of my old post on F54 VS, N42. I could of advised you to use the N42 as IT is the TRUE siameesed block, and not the F54. ALL my LARGE bore motors are N42, for that EXACT reason. I own a sonic tester and have tested MANY L series blocks, so this isnt just some outragious claims. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 As a side note, both "How to modify your datsun/Nissan..." and "How to rebuild you Datsun/Nissan...." books agree with 1 fast z that later 280ZX blocks(turbo blocks) have their siamese webs split in the middle of the cylinder. Therefore, unlike earlier N42 which has unsplit webs, turbo blocks are actually weaker if bored out to the maximum. 1 fast z, Is it true that there are L28 blocks with a different metallurgy? If so what was the original intention of using this metal and what are the benefits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted January 15, 2006 Share Posted January 15, 2006 Yep, should have stuck w/ an earlier N4_ block, but this was back in 2001 when I was building my first stroker. If I only knew then what I know now... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
datfreak Posted January 16, 2006 Author Share Posted January 16, 2006 so a n42 would be safer to do 120thou? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Z-Gad Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 Whichever block you choose, you should sonic test prior to doing the 3mm overbore to make sure the walls are thick enough to accept it. If you went 2mm overbore, sonic testing is probably not necessary... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
greenmonster80 Posted January 16, 2006 Share Posted January 16, 2006 I built my stroker with the escort pistons. Didn't know they had a US page on the internet. I have the set that calls for the L14/LD combination. I also Built my block from the N42. Glad I did now from 1 fast z's posts. Only reason I used the N42 was that in all of my Jap magazines all the strokers were in N42 blocks. Figured if it worked for them all these years got to be something with it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbo280Z Posted January 24, 2006 Share Posted January 24, 2006 what do u think would be the possible most to bore it out? i was messin around with the engine make thing and if the numbers fit like that says it does it would be like $5500 for a all forged bottom end all custom sized. and i figured out to make a 3.6L with the l28 block. so here are my questions.. 1. what is the most u can bore? 2. whats the biggest possible stroke for the crank? 3. what is the minimum pin height that can eb used? heres what im hoping i can do.... 91 bore 92 stroke 139 rods flat top piston with 21 pin height 2mm HG p90 head if it fits it works out to be 3.590L CR 8.55 any input would be great guys thanks..... and a huge turbo 3.6 240z would be SO FAST lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zcarman1259 Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 Read some of my old post on F54 VS, N42. I could of advised you to use the N42 as IT is the TRUE siameesed block, and not the F54. ALL my LARGE bore motors are N42, for that EXACT reason. I own a sonic tester and have tested MANY L series blocks, so this isnt just some outragious claims. Bryan, How did you discover the N42 was siamesed? Did you cut into the block or remove the sleeves? Did you see internal cast webbing that looked the same for both? I'm just a bit confused over conflicting info. For example, In the Frank H. How to modify your Datsun book, they actually have a cross-sectioned N42 showing open cavity between 1-2 cylinder. Does that mean all N42 blocks are not the same? And did you measure the average cylinder wall thicknesses of the F54 vs N42? Can you say conclusively the sleeves are thicker in the N42? Thanks, SB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheNeedForZ Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 According to "how to modify..." and "how to rebuild..." books, L28 blocks are not siamesed at first, then become siamesed, then come F54 that are slotted. Remove the freeze plugs and peep into the engine block, that will give visual confirmation about the webs between cylinders. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1 fast z Posted February 2, 2006 Share Posted February 2, 2006 We own a sonic tester at the shop, Ive sonic tested LOTS of F54's and N42's to come up with my conclussion. RE-READ the how to modify book, it backsup my statement, read it carefully. YES you can see light between 1 and 2, 2 and 3, 4 and 5, and 5 and 6. You can NOT see this light on a 42 block. .410 thickness betwen these cylinders on 42 blocks, and .150 thick on 54 blocks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zercs280zx Posted February 25, 2006 Share Posted February 25, 2006 I built my stroker with the escort pistons. Didn't know they had a US page on the internet. I have the set that calls for the L14/LD combination. I also Built my block from the N42. Glad I did now from 1 fast z's posts. Only reason I used the N42 was that in all of my Jap magazines all the strokers were in N42 blocks. Figured if it worked for them all these years got to be something with it. Anyone know this guy, greenmonster80? He sold me his other stroker setup, but he didn't tell me the pistons were used. I asked for a refund, but he hasn't been cooperative. I was going to buy a set of new Ross custom pistons, but I thought I was getting the whole setup with this deal. I'm not going to go into details or bash anyone using this forum, but if anyone has done any business with him or could help me out in anyway, please send me a private email. Thanks. I haven't spoken to him or seen him on the site as of recently. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zercs280zx Posted April 7, 2006 Share Posted April 7, 2006 if greenmonster80 sold the GTR........ or did he just pull his ad? I still have not heard back from him.... same old story Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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