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Griffin 26x19x2.25" install w/ L28ET


Forrest

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Hey guys,

I installed the absolute widest Griffin aluminum radiator that will fit in a 280Z in my car today, and thought you might like to see some pictures. Here it is at Summit: http://store.summitracing.com/default.asp?Ntt=griffin+radiator&x=0&y=0&searchinresults=false&Ntk=KeywordSearch&DDS=1&N=115&target=egnsearch.asp

 

I bought it from a member here who had it in his 280zx.

 

Here it is out of the box:

griffin.jpg

 

Here are the brackets we made: (Sam (Sam280Z) did the welding)

radbrackets.jpg

 

Here is the mount I bent for the top:

topradmount.jpg

 

Here are the bottom brackets installed on the car from 2 angles:

radbottomp.jpg

radbottomd.jpg

 

And here is my only real problem with this thing, my current intake piping will hit the top hose as it sits now. I was planning to redo all that piping soon anyway, so it looks like soon will be immediately.

tophosehits.jpg

 

The bottom hose fits pretty easily:

bottomhosefits.jpg

 

Here is a better shot of the installation (have to countersink the holes in the top mount before screwing it down):

radinstalled.jpg

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I had the same radiator in my 355 sbc. It is the biggest most efficient radiator you can buy. Flows almost 50% more than 1" tubes. I assume that you meant 1.25" tubes x 2. The only concern I saw was that solid mounting an aluminum radiator is a recipe for disaster. Yes, this is done on race cars, but those radiators are replaced frequently. On a street car over more miles, the welds will break in the aluminum radiator is not rubber mounted. The constant twisting and pulling will shred those welds.

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Glad to hear it Lewis. I probably didn't take the best pictures, but I have insulation foamrubber everywhere the radiator is being held in place. My mount on top was just sitting there for illustration - I have to borrow some countersink bits before I put it on - I will have insulation there too.

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It is not only the twisting stress that kills aluminum radiators. The thermal expansion can also play a huge roll. I calculated close to .088" length difference for mine between cold winter weather and hot coolant. This will create a lot of thermal stress, which could also crack a solid mount radiator.

 

I will be rubber mounting mine also.

 

Joshua

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I probably didn't take the best pictures, but I have insulation foamrubber everywhere the radiator is being held in place. My mount on top was just sitting there for illustration - I have to borrow some countersink bits before I put it on - [b']I will have insulation there too.[/b]

 

I didn't put enough bold!

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Sorry guys,

I was not trying to criticize, I think it looks fine with the foam you have in there. I was stating the thermal expansion just for general knowledge, etc. I see alum. rad's hard mounted and thought I would throw some info in there.

 

As desert dog said, vibration is also a big no-no. Aluminum likes to fatigue, one of the bad things aluminum does. Over time that vibration, even very small, could cause fatique cracks. I assume that this is not a major nor common problem, but I guess it could be.

 

Anyways, sorry if it seemed I was criticizing. Didn't mean to come off that way...

Joshua

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Not to criticise anyone either. I spent time neopreme rubber mounting the exact same rad recently.

 

On side note: An old time rad shop guy told me these particular rads are not so great. If you look closely the core is acutally glued to the expansion tanks. He continued on saying the glue hardens and becomes brittle with time. Once a leak starts in this area the rad is toast. Needless to say I was really happy to hear that. Don't know if I fully believed him but he does make a point worth consideration..

 

Picture_0011.jpg

Picture_004.jpg

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Rubber insulation is needed to isolate it from the frame. If you don't then you will get a reaction that tends to destroy aluminum radiators. I don't know the reason why, but I got that info from JTR so I trust it.

When the parts get wet, the dissimilar metals begin a galvanic reaction with each other, essentially a low-voltage battery, and the metals will exchange electrons, eventually degrading the material. This is the reason why you need to isolate ferrous and non ferrous-materials, no matter what the application.

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  • 3 months later...

So are there any aftermarket mounts to ensure that a high $ alum radiator will last a while? Im just finding out that my Ron Davis Radiator was epoxyed together and it has a leak after mabey 100 hrs of drive time. SUC... $800 now trash. Well now they said the new specs call for 100% welds but i need to make sure it is soft mounted. I search around but no luck on the mounting issue, I really need to get the car back on the dyno to set up for the international z show this month. Any help would be nice.

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