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How-To install a Holset Turbo *CHEAP*


Thumper

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This is how I installed my holset turbo. First you will need a hy35w turbo. You can use an hx35w but you will need a spacer and it will take forever to spool. When you order/get the turbo, make sure you get the 45degree exhaust pipe and v-band clamp. The v-band clamp is $40 at dodge and the pipe is alot more. The supplies you will need are:

  • Holset hy35w turbo (Ebay, Junkyard, etc...)$250-$450
  • m12 x 1.25 thread tap (Local hardware store)$10
  • 2.75" x ?" Intercooler coupler (?= whatever size pipe you will use)$20
  • 3" mandrel bent u-bend piping (Summit, Jegs, JcWhitney)$25
  • ?" mandrel bent u-bend piping (For pipe from turbo too intercooler)$25
  • Mig/Tig Welder (Friends, Muffler shop, Sears)$450-$3k
  • RTV Sealant (Anywhere)$7
  • O2 Sensor Bung (Auto parts shop, Muffler Shop, Ebay)$6
  • 4" Air Filter (Summit, Jegs, JcWhitney, etc...)$50-70
  • Stock Turbo/Manifold Gasket (Nissan)$20
  • Large c-clip Pliers (Tool Place)$15
  • 2 copper washers for oil feed line (Auto Parts store)$6
  • Die grinder/Dremel (Tool Place)$20-100
  • Stock 280zx turbo Wastegate Actuator

  1. Unbolt the clamp that holds the center section to the exhaust housing.
  2. Remove the c-clip that holds the compressor housing to the center section
  3. Remove the wastegate actuator and cut off the bracket that held the actuator to the compressor housing
  4. Rethread the oil feed hole with the tap and then turn center section upside down blowing all shavings out and then run some thick oil through it to get the leftovers
  5. Port the stock wastegate hole as big as you can get. Over 300% larger. Make it so the the wastegate puck barely covers the hole and make sure the hole is even all the way back and does not taper down. If not done enough you WILL have boost creep problems and will have to take the turbo off and redo.
  6. Put new manifold gasket on and mount exhaust housing.
  7. Put the center section on the exhaust housing and lightly tighen the v-band clamp. Rotate center section untill the drain tube lines up with the bolt holes.
  8. Slide the compressor housing onto the center section and clock it at the position you want it. Mark the compressor housing and center section.
  9. Remove housing and center section from exhaust housing. Line the marks up and install the c-clip removed earlier.
  10. Reinstall the center section with the compressor housing attached.
  11. Make sure everything is lining up correctly (oil drain pipe, compressor outlet, and you have enough room for you pcv valve)
  12. Tighten the v-band clamp moderately. No need to torque it down it is deceiving on how tight it is
  13. Put a light coat of rtv sealant on oil drain tube and install the bolts.
  14. Bend stock oil feed line so that it is in the correct location and install the bolt with new copper washers.
  15. Using the 45 degree exhaust pipe and 3" mandrel bent pipe make a downpipe. You will need to have the 3" pipe expanded to fit the 3.5" exhaust pipe. But only for an 1" or 2" then it can be 3" the rest of the way.
  16. Make the intercooler pipe and install it with the coupler
  17. Make a bracket for the stock wastegate actuator either Tig welding it to the compressor housing or mounting it to the intake manifold. Make sure it is a straight angle and the actuator can extend fully.
  18. Install 4" air filter and prime the turbo with oil
  19. Enjoy the ride!:flamedevi

This is my first how-to article so any and all input is welcomed. If you have any questions reply here so that I can answer them so that all can see.

 

These are not my pictures but my setup is similar. Only difference is I used the stock oil feed line instead of an aftermarket braided one, I used a 3" pipe expanded to a 3.5" instead of a special 3.5" to 3" reducer, and I mounted my 280zx actuator to the intake manifold instead of getting the bracket tig welded to the compressor housing.

 

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Thanks for taking my request and posting about the Holset swap. Looks to me that other than alot of minor adjustments it's not all that bad (I know alot of minor things can add up to a PITA) However it looks like the real challenge to this swap is the boring out of the wastegate, would you say that is correct? Perhaps another way to go would be to fab up a external wastegate on the stock manifold like 240hoke did.. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=108785

 

You also said to go with the Hy35w model with 45 degree exhaust port.. Can you tell me exactly what what vehicle you would find that exact setup?

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dodge cummins diesel trucks

 

Yes I figured that, but does that mean that every dodge diesel truck uses the Hy35w with a 45 degree exhaust elbow or perhaps certain years/models use the Hx35w? and maybe don't have the exhaust elbow.. This is why I'm asking for specifics.

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stupid question:

 

what's the advantage of the Holset vs. t3/t4?

 

I image the biggest thing is that a Holset was available on a factory application and therefore can be picked up used for alot less money than a T3/T4. Especially now that guys with Dodge diesels are doing upgrades and us Z guys can pick up the leftover scraps.. LOL

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Guest JAMIE T

Not only that, but they can boost to 40psi+. They are superior to "old" Garrett technology. Not particularly to "GT" stuff though. The Holsets are very advanced compared to Typical T3/T4 turbos.

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  • 7 months later...

hmmmm, not sure about a zx but if it will go you will be soooooooooooooooooooooooo happy!! I've been running my HY for going on 3 days and MAN!! awesome........just awsome. The tires chirp when I take off in 1st, then as the HY spools up the tires start breaking loose, AGAIN! If I get it spooling in first, then take off its time to get some new tires.

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